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Chris Copenbarger Posted on Jun 30, 2012
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Why won't the compressor engage on my out door a/c condenser unit, when 122 volts are present at the compressor and there is a full charge on the a/c system.

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Jim Glover

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  • Expert 107 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 27, 2013
Jim Glover
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If this a system on a home. You should have 230v to the compressor. If this is a window unit rated for 120v and the compressor is not hot then you mostly have open windings in the compressor and the compressor is dead.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 182 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 02, 2008

SOURCE: Copleland scroll compressor failure

Make sure ALL moisture and noncondensables are evacuated while the system is down.I would have the line flushed to remove all remnants of burnout.Actually with the age of the unit and amount that needs repaired I would change the unit out to a 410a system and start over.

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jdthefixer

  • 747 Answers
  • Posted on May 03, 2009

SOURCE: COMPRESSOR NOT RUNNING, HOT

The high side/low side pressure equalization you describe is normal for a compressor sitting idle.

If you have an ohm meter you can check the compressor windings for opens and shorts. If your compressor is 3 phase as you state (this would be very unusual for a residential unit) you should have continuity across all 3 phases and no continuity to ground. Take the compressor out of the circuit before you check.

If the compressor does have crankcase heat, it should have been left on for at least 24 hours before starting the unit. Another cause for failure could be overcharging which could have resulted in refrigerant slugging back to the compressor.

Does the unit have any low or high pressure control safeties? If so, check them too - some have resets. You said the condenser fan ran so it's not likely the breaker blew, but check anyway and also check to make sure you have available power on all 3 phases.

Anonymous

  • 158 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 01, 2009

SOURCE: p8 eroor code

P8 error is abnormal pipe temperature indoor. If you are running it on heating P8 error will appear because the disc pressure is too high. It could be overcharged.

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 16, 2009

SOURCE: compressor not turning on

is the compressor actually turning over ?? if not check the contactor, or capacitor is actually ok...

if it does turn over, are the stop valves open ??

Anonymous

  • 7 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 30, 2009

SOURCE: Condenser fan turns slowly and then compressor shuts down

clean bushing and allign them very well.

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It is a Condensate Overflow Control , your drain line may be clogged if it is clear and no water present you may have a bad sensor. If the unit is not draining properly it can cause a freeze up of the coil and compressor damage.
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94 olds 88 a/c

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The AC condenser fan on my 1990 Plymouth Voyager does not switch on even though the compressor clutch engages and condenser fan runs fine when connected directly to 12 volt source. Would appreciate any...

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AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH WON'T ENGAGE.

It could be any of a number of things: be sure and check the fuses and relays under the hood in that fuse panel , also the mail switch inside ,, you can jumper those contacts to see if it's the switch , here are some other ideas

  • Low refrigerant. An A/C system requires a certain amount of refrigerant to cool properly. If low, it works less efficiently and does not cool well.
  • Dirty condenser -- The condenser is the heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator. It cools the high pressure refrigerant vapor after it exits the compressor so it can condense into a liquid. If the condenser is full of leaves, bugs and road debris, air flow through the unit may be blocked to the point where little cooling occurs. Cleaning the condenser should cure the problem.
  • Inoperative condenser cooling fan. The condenser often has its own separate electric cooling fan. This fan should come on and remain on when the A/C system is operating. If the fan motor, motor relay or wiring is defective, the fan may not be working.
  • Air or moisture contamination -- For the refrigerant inside the system to do its job properly, it must not be contaminated with air or moisture. Air reduces the cooling efficiency of the system while moisture can freeze and form ice that causes blockages in orifice tubes and metering valves. Air and moisture contamination may be the result of unrepaired leaks in the system, or failing to vacuum purge the system prior to recharging it with refrigerant.
  • Blockages -- Debris, rust or debris in the system may plug up the orifice tube or metering valve that admits refrigerant into the evaporator. If this vital point becomes obstructed, the flow of refrigerant may be restricted or blocked causing a loss of cooling -- and possible compressor damage as well in systems that rely on oil circulating with the refrigerant for lubrication.
  • Mechanical problem -- These include things like metering valve failures, compressor wear, a compressor clutch that fails to engage, bad pressure switches, etc.
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    AC compressor won't kick on

    The most logical reason for this is some sort of leak in the ac lines, causing low pressure-the low pressure switch then keeps the compressor clutch from engaging, to protect the compressor. The system needs to be inspected for any obvious leaks first (check hoses, fittings at the compressor or condenser, evaporator which can be hard to check due to it's hidden location)-a good way to find a leak is to charge the system with 134a that has dye in it, then expose with a blacklight.
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