Wiring I have wired my 35-APS for 120volts and the water is not getting hot. Do I have to use a jumper wire for the red terminal or will the unit only work on 240 volts.

Can I start by saying I am not in anyway saying to do this alone it is dangerous but if u must follow each step start by being safe shut off the breakers good luck here to help
Step 1
Turn the air conditioning and heating unit off by flipping the appropriate circuit breaker. Test the unit to make sure it's off by turning your existing thermostat to the "On" position and seeing if it turns on. Wiring a Honeywell thermostat when the circuit breaker is on could cause you to blow the transformer that powers the HVAC unit Step 2

Connect the red wires to the thermostat RH, thermostat RC or thermostat R terminal. The thermostat RC terminal has a jumper wire between thermostat RH and thermostat RC. The thermostat R terminal operates both the heating and cooling units, and contains an internal jumper wire. Basically, your red wire on a Honeywell thermostat is the hot wire that run. Step 3

Run the green wire to the thermostat G terminal. The green wire controls the relay that operates the blower, and it controls the fan. Step 4

Control your air conditioning when you connect the yellow wire. It connects to the thermostat Y terminal Step 5

Hook the white wire to the thermostat W terminal to control the heating unit

Single or two pole switch? For a single wire the neutral line lead straight to the motor line terminal (which post won't matter) and the hot lead to the switch and then a jumper from the switches other post to the motors other line terminal.

If the switch is two-pole then both the neutral and the hot lead will go to the switch with jumpers from the switch to the motor line terminals.

Look at rating plate on side of unit for Volts, Amps, Watts.
Volts x amps = watts.
If unit is 240Volts, then you need double-pole 240Volt breaker
If unit is 8500 watts at max power, then 8500 watts divided by 240Volts = 35 amps.

What size breaker for 35 amps?
When electricians figure load rating for breakers, they use the 80% rule.
40 amp breaker x 80% = 32 amp safe maximum load for 40 amp breaker. Use 8 gauge wire with 40 amp breaker.
50 amp breaker x 80% = 40 amp safe maximum for 50 amp breaker. I use 6 gauge wire with 50 amp breaker.
60 amp breaker x 80% = 48 amp safe maximum for 60 amp breaker. Again, use 6 gauge wire with 60 amp breaker.

How to connect wires to unit.
First of all, all outdoor HVAC units require power cut off located next to unit.
This lets the mechanic, or service tech turn power off to work on unit, even if the mechanic does not have access to main breaker box.

Next, open unit to see where wires connect.
If unit has wires, then connect both hot wires from 240 breaker to the wires inside unit. Connect bare ground wire to green ground screw.
If unit has terminals. The terminals will be labeled L1 L2. Connect each hot wire from 240Volt breaker to either one of the screw terminals. Then bare ground goes to green ground screw.

Copy following links for basic illustrations connecting wires to terminals, and to breakers, and selecting wire size.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Tankless-electric-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hello,

I suspect on teh wiring from the house the black&white will be the hot wires and the bare will be ground/neutral

use a volt meter before connecting tonew cooktop and check for;
black/bare to have 120volts
white/bare to have 120volts

if that is what you find...connect new cooktop as such;

black to black
red to (house) white

(cooktop) white and green to bare


GENE

I think you have the ET70215C SPDT
http://www.intermatic.com/products/timers/electronic%20time%20switches/next%20generation%20time%20switches.aspx
If this is not your timer, then add a comment.

Manual for ET70215C (same manual is for other models too)
http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/timers/et70215c%20-%20english.ashx

Just as you figured, timer has selectable voltage.
Page 28 shows wiring diagrams and jumper settings:
Timer comes with a jumper, and then you select with voltage by installing jumper


Sample wiring diagram below shows 120Volts:

ET70125 appears to have 8 terminals.
Some models have 5 terminals.
There are many ways to wire this timer. Off hand I can think of 10 different ways.
Add a comment if you need help with a specific project.
In any case, the clock terminals are 1 and 2.
To put voltage to the timer switches in the simplest wiring options, is to put a jumper wire from terminal 2 to 3
If you are using 240-277 voltage with two hot wires, you still need to jumper from clock terminals to switch terminals. For example one jumper wire from terminal 2 to terminal 3 & then second jumper wire from terminal 1 to terminal 6

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer.

T104 is 240volt timer.
Timer has terminals A 1 2 3 4
T-104 clock motor must receive 240Volts to operate.
Clock motor wires are white-colored and can be seen connected to terminals 1 and 3.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Back-of-WH40-2b.jpg

There are two work-arounds for using T104 for 120V.

1) Diagram 1 showing how to change wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-104-control-120V-Load-500.jpg
Move 240V clock motor wires to terminal 1 and A.
Connect 240V Hot leads to terminals 1 and A. This will power the 240V clock motor
Hot wire going to 120V load connects to terminal 2. This wire will be turned on each time timer turns on, and 120Volts will power the 120V load.
To complete 120V circuit, neutral wire that comes from neutral busbar in breaker box connects to 120V load.

To control additional 120Volt circuit, run jumper wire from terminal 1 to terminal 3.
Connect Hot to second load to terminal 4.

2) Second method is to change T104 timer into T103 timer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-104-control-120V-Load-2-5.jpg
Replace T104 240V clock with identical 120V clock motor from Grainger
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/INTERMATIC-Time-Clock-Motor-1PNK1?Pid=search
Neutral wires connect to terminal A.
Hot wire from Breaker connects to terminal 1
Hot going to Load connects to terminal 2

To control additional 120Volt circuit, run jumper wire from terminal 1 to terminal 3.
Connect Hot to second load to terminal 4.

A) 5 terminal ET70115C.
Voltage selector set to 240.

B) BUT you say you have 120Volts from breaker >>> confusing, so I'm proceeding on basis that you meant to say 240V from breaker.
Add a comment at any time.

C) Review timer:
5-terminal ET70115 timer has NO and NC terminals
NC is normally closed >> this terminal has power when timer is OFF
NO is normally open >> this terminals has power when timer turns ON
For water heater, you want NO terminal 4 so water heater turns ON when timer turns ON

D) Wire for 240Volt water heater

Two hot wires from breaker connect to terminals 1 and 2. This powers timer clock.
Jumper wire connects between terminal 2 to terminal 3. This sends power to the switch circuit.
Wires to water heater connect to terminals 1 and 4

E) 5-terminal timer turns off 1 hot wire to 240V water heater.
Turning off 1 hot wire will stop 240V circuit from working; Water heater thermostats also turn off one hot wire.
240V water heater has black and red wire.
Wire from terminal 4 should connect to Black wire on water heater.

Diagram shows two wires on terminal 1
Two wires on terminal 2
One jumper wire on terminal 3
One wire on terminal 4
Zero wires on terminal 5

you evidentally got a hot phase and a neutral mixed up on the terminal board which made the case of the unit hot 120volts,then it backfed through the case ground wire back to the neutral and this blew the fuse/breaker,if its a flat 3 wire cord, the 2 outside wires are your hot phase wires and go to L1 and L2 on the terminal block,polarity is not an issue soeither wire on either terminal,then the center one goes to the terminal marked N or neutral

Do you have 120 between ignitor feeds/wires?if not put a jumper between 2 connections on gas valve,.If ignitor comes on ,bad valve .if not bad tstat/control issue

a. Remove the cover of the thermostat.
b. Connect the RED wire from the air conditioner
to the “RC” terminal on the thermostat.
c. Connect the “YELLOW” wire from the air conditioner
to the “Y” terminal on the thermostat.
d. Connect the “BLUE” wire from the air conditioner
to the “H” terminal on the thermostat.
e. Connect the “ORANGE” wire from the air conditioner
to the “G” terminal on the thermostat.
f. Push the thermostat wires into hole in wall and
fill excess hole with insulation.
g. Mount thermostat base to the wall with screws
provided.
h. Check all thermostat wires on base to ensure
they are completely clear of the bimetal coil of
the thermostat. Adjust if necessary.
i. Replace thermostat cover.
If nothing operates on the air conditioner, remove the
return air grille assembly and verify the red, orange, yellow
and blue wires are properly connected (red-to-red,
orange-to-orange, etc.).
Next, disconnect the red wires and check for 12 volt
DC between the red wire from roof section and the orange
or blue wire from roof section. If no voltage received,
refer to Section F2. If voltage is received, the
problem lies with the thermostat or thermostat wires.
Next, disconnect all 4 wires (red, orange, yellow and
blue) from the thermostat. With the thermostat set on
COOL mode, FAN mode set on AUTO and HIGH, and
temperature selector set lower than the room temperature. Check for continuity between terminal RC (red wire)
and terminal G (orange wire); and RC (red wire) and
terminal H (blue wire). If continuity is achieved on each,
proceed with the next step.
Set fan switch to LOW. Continuity should NOT be present
between terminal RC and Terminal H, but present between
the other terminals (Y & G) and terminal RC.
If all of the previous checks are good, the thermostat is
good, do not replace it. If any one of the previous checks
are not correct, replace the thermostat.