I need a break down of the neutral and drive acutator. The assembly has come apart inside. there is a lever that is splind and need timing or positioning prcedures.
The drive unit is out. i just need assembly instructions and some ilustrations would help.
I figured it out. It took a few trials and errors to install the lever in the correct position, but I repaired it. The levers splines would not hold it in place so I move the lever down the splined shaft a bit further and then useing a good pair of flush side cutters, I was able to mar the splines a bit on the end to keep the lever from sliding off the shaft. It may fall apart again but for now it works.I figured it out. It took a few trials and errors to install the lever in the correct position, but I repaired it. The levers splines would not hold it in place so I move the lever down the splined shaft a bit further and then useing a good pair of flush side cutters, I was able to mar the splines a bit on the end to keep the lever from sliding off the shaft. It may fall apart again but for now it works.
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The pedal assembly must be replaced,( part # 558401S), as it has a gear pressed to it which has come loose. The handle, switch plate, and upper motor cover must be removed first. To remove the plastic switch plate, remove it's screws and insert a flat screwdriver into the rectangular slot in it to pop it of. Four screws hold the motor cover in place. Next the switch button must be removed. The Techdrive assembly can be removed by removing the three screws on the bottom. Drop the drive down, and unhook it's belt from the gear on the end of the armature shaft. The pedal assembly can be removed by removing the remaining screw from the bottom of the drive unit. The N/D pedal has two parts - the pedal itself, and the shift cam. Observe carefully how these units fit together. After installing the new pedal and replacing the screw and washer to secure it, re-install the drive unit. The shift must be in the Drive position to install it, and replace the belt. Be sure to line up the arm on the drive unit so that it engages the slot at the base of the handle pivot and re-install the other items
The drive/ neutral pedal assembly must be replaced. This part is pressed together and cannot be repaired. A new assembly is about $17-$20. The power drive unit must be removed from the machine.
I have never touched a Kirby vacuum before and my wife had the same issue. The neutral/drive pedal just fell out so I figured I would give it a shot to see if I could fix it and quickly figured out the 3 screws in the bottom plate for the drive unit wasn't the answer.
I was able to figure things out out after I found a parts list with diagrams at the follow web site and address:
Vac Parts Warehouse.com http://www.vacpartswarehouse.com/category-s/2821.htm
The two parts involved are: 13. Bracket Cam Assembly Neutral Drive Pedal 557689A 16. Kirby Pedal Cam For Neutral Drive G6 558499A
Here's how to get to a point that you can get these two parts in/out of the machine.
- Remove bag and fill tube from handle and main unit - Remove floor nozzle assembly - Remove the handle via the two screws at the handle fork plate (these have loctite on them so needed a socket wrench with torex bits to get them out). - Remove the plastic rear scuff plate vie the screw with the power cord anchor and screw by the Pedal Cam For Neutral Drive. Note release plastic tab in slot in the center and lift from the back and then over the base where the handle attaches.
I did not do this as I removed the the power drive assembly so I could figure out how to put the dive assembly back together. The pressed on arm that drives the cam assembly had pulled of the pedal shaft so this also made it easier to fish out the parts and experiment on positioning the arm in the right spot . I found the arm and a spring washer inside. Note – continue disassembly below if bracket cam assembly will not come out as it is easier to work with once the drive assembly is removed.
Remove the screw on the bottom plate that attaches the Bracket Cam Assembly and slide the Pedal Cam. Then the plastic back panel and the cam assembly should slide out if you lift up on it. Note that the screw is the only one with a star lock washer on it. Also note that this entire assembly is the only way that the parts are sold and it includes plastic back plate and metal cam assembly as. I when down the path to repair the existing assembly so I needed to take the power drive out The part was 16. Kirby Pedal Cam For Neutral Drive G6 558499A at Vac Parts Warehouse.com. The one listed on the website said it was for a G6 even though the parts listing is for a G5 so I don't know....
To continue to disassemble and take the power drive assembly out: - Remove the 4 screws from the Cover Shell assembly - the metal top part. You do not need to remove the hinged Headlight Cap that is attached to it. - Remove the 4 screw from the bracket assembly that has the handle attachment and forward/reverse switch. It attached by two wires. I only disconnect one and swung it to the side. - Snap off the the on/off switch and disconnect from the Actuating Rod Foot Pedal to Power Switch. - Remove the 3 screw from the bottom plate of the power drive assembly. - Remove the drive belt. - The power drive assembly will now drop out the bottom.
I just put the spring washer and arm back on the shaft and reassembled. I'll see how long that lasts before before buying the new part. Update: this fix did not last long. Use red Loctite or super glue to attach cam to shaft so it doesn’t pull out if you want to avoid buying the new assembly. Note that the cam must be aligned so that when the neutral side is pushed the cam will stop in the detent to hold it in place. Must be reassembled in the drive position as that is the default for the drive assembly.
I dismantled the cover, withdrew the gear drive assembly and found the bits that had come loose. The mechanism that selects neutral or drive had come away from its shaft. I simply put it all back together and tightened everything back up. Works a dream again.
I didn't find this as difficlut as red devil 6, however, having 2 people helps. Remove the brush assembly using the 2 brush release buttons. Remove the front nozzel by sliding the 2 nozzel release clips away from the unit. Do NOT remove any screws from the underside of the floor mate base.
Before you begin....on the new wheel assembly, locate the "spring loaded lever" that is attached by the 2 brass screws. Notice that it can be pushed to the side and it locks in place. If pushed again it releases. This is important when you go to make sure the wet/dry pick up indicator is working near the last step of the process.
The top grey cover on the base of the unit lifts off accessing the hubs that hold the handle to the base.
To remove the top grey cover, there are 6 clips that you have to move to one side or the other with a narrow flat blade screw driver. All 6 of these clips are accessed from the underside of the base unit. Work gently...red devil 6 was correct, you can break things easily.
GENTLY pry up the top grey cover exposing the 2 black hubs holding the handle to the base. Remove the 4 screws holding the hubs to the base. I found it easier to have the handle in the down position to remove the cover. I found it easier to have the handle up for 2 screws and down for the other 2 screws.
This is where 2 people come in handy. One person (me) holds the handle and base apart while the other person (my wife) installs the wheel assemlby. It is a little tricky to get in place. My wife found it easiest to install the nubs first (yes nubs, like a little axel that holds the wheel assembly to the base) at the back of the wheel assembly, then slip the pin at the front of the wheel assembly into its position (where the old one came from).
Reset handle and hubs into the base and tighten 4 screws.
Before you go any further, make sure your dry/wet pickup indicator works.....The INDICATOR is the thing that has two red spots on it and tells you if you are on wet or dry pickup. GENTLY TRY to work the wet dry pedal with you HAND to see if the indicator swithces between wet and dry easily. If you are not GENTAl and you force it, you WILL BREAK it. If it does EAISLY go back and forth between wet and dry you have to reset the indicator. Push the indicator stem (the stem that sticks down into the base) up through the base and push the spring loaded lever (see before you begin above) assembly on the wheel assembly to the side. Reinstall the indicator stem and make sure the little spring end is positioned over top of the plastic stub. Recheck GENTLY the function of the wet/dry pickup foot pedal, but use your HAND.
Finally, reinstall top grey cover. It's a little tricky but we found it helpful to have the handle in the down position. Make sure it snaps back into place.
You did it!.
This took my wife and I about 45 minutes to 1 hour....but at least half of the time was spent going slow to ensure I didn't break anything else.
Some months ago I fell over my K-G6 at nite. Later the handle appeared looser than normal. Gradually, it started having the possessed yank-you-off-your-feet feel. This week I carefully disassembled the chrome plated cowling cover the handle goes thru to look inside. Two top machine screws when the front hood is lifted, two rear screws in the plastic, a single center screw near the drive-neutral toggle and a single screw for the power cord strain relief. I removed the handle by taking the two large screws off. This allowed the cowling to come free. From the rear, on the left side is a lever with a two pronged fork pointing up. The fork is supposed to stick into the receiver mechanism which is part of the handle slide. I get it: as the user pushes and pulls on the handle while vacuuming, the handle assembly slides back and forth and transmits commands thru the mechanical linkage to the drive mechanism. My fork was not engaged in the receiver. The reason was 3 screws on the left side of the brass block assembly were loose and the small black wedge was partially crushed. I dissassembled, cleaned, oiled and replaced the pieces and cinched down the 5 machine screws holding both brass blocks and the wedge. When I did this, I noticed the fork engaged with the receiver. Now reassembled, my Kirby runs pretty good and no longer feels possessed. And yes the roller height does make a difference on the drive assist reaction.
I figured it out. It took a few trials and errors to install the lever in the correct position, but I repaired it. The levers splines would not hold it in place so I move the lever down the splined shaft a bit further and then useing a good pair of flush side cutters, I was able to mar the splines a bit on the end to keep the lever from sliding off the shaft. It may fall apart again but for now it works.
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