Am I missing a part? The choke only works by pushing on it directly which is hard to do while pulling the starter cord. The lever with the rabbit and the turtle does'nt move at all, so I'm afraid some linkage may be broken or missing. Any advice?
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Likely it is flooded. Try starting without choke. Move control lever into choke position, then back to start position. This sets a high idle throttle/no choke. Don't touch throttle or it will drop throttle position from high idle to idle. Set decompress and pull starter cord no more than 3x.
You may have to remove spark plug and pull start cord several times to get the excess fuel out of the cylinder and crankcase. Dry spark plug with compressed air or starter fluid. Reinstall spark plug. Pull starter cord no more than 3x. If it doesn't fire, remove plug and inspect tip. If completely dry, no fuel. If wet either no spark or it has flooded again, check for spark.
Hi Jack:
You don't mention make or model so all I can do is relate 50 years of personal experience.
None of the chain saws that I have owned have had a fuel primer.
This has been (and continues to be for my Husky 266) my start routine. Current saws don't have compression release.
- prep includes fill fuel and oil tanks, check chain sharp and tension, bar tip lube.
- Ignition switch on
- Choke full on
- Throttle full and lock set.
- Pull starter cord *(266 takes 3 pulls, Homelite took 6) until engine fires. If I'm fast I can get the choke off before it dies, otherwise
- Choke off, Pull starter cord. Engine should start with 1 or 2 pulls.
Hope this helps.
full choke on , push petrol bubble 5 times then pull starter cord., with luck it will kick in to life after a 20/30 secs put on half choke , run again for 30 secs the no ckoke.
The main problem with Ryobi products is that they flood very very easly. So the more time you try and pump petrol into the carb the more it will flood . If that happenes then choke off and switch off and then just pull starter cord for about 30 secs then switch on and it could start if not prime it again as above good luck
The chainbrake should be activated when starting the chain saw. Activate the chain brakeby pushing the front hand guard forwards.b>Cold engine Start position, 1: Set the start/stop switch in the choke position by pulling thered control outward - upward.Decompression valve: Press the valve to reduce the pressure in the cylinder and makestarting easier. Once the machine has started the valve will automaticallyreturn to its original setting.Air purge: Press the air purge diaphragm repeatedly until fuel fills thediaphragm (at least 6 times). The diaphragm need not be completely filled.Grip the front handle with yourleft hand. Hold the chain saw on the ground by placing your right foot throughthe rear handle.Pull the starter handle, 4: Pull the starter handle with your right hand and pull out thestarter cord slowly until you feel a resistance (as the starter pawls engage)then pull firmly and rapidly until the engine fires.Push down the red choke control: As soon as the engine fires which can be heard through a"puff" sound, push down on the red choke control.Pull the starter handle (6): Keep on pulling the cord powerfully until the engine starts.
Start at 1.5 CCW form lightly seated then tune for performance like this: Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly. Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
I think your starting procedure may be the cause of flooding. Flooded is the #1 cause of hard starts in 2-cycle engines. Read carefully the recommended start in your manual. most miss the second note. It should be similar to this (read 3, read it again):
Warm start in the manual says 1/2 choke BS. Close choke, (sets fast idle) open choke, pull rope. Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4).
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts (usually first pull).
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts (usually first pull).
If you still have trouble reply as you did before. I will get back to you. HTH Lou
It must have spark, fuel and compression to run. Your task is to figure out which is missing.
Sometimes electrical components quit operating once beyond a certain temperature. Does it always start cold and become tempermental when warm?
IMO most hard start problems on a chainsaw with a good fuel delivery system are flooded. Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
The 3516 is a MTD McCulloch (Chinese). These saws are in a class by themselves. Good Luck Lou
First, make sure that the gas mixture is correct (gas and oil mixed in the right proportion). Next, press the primer bulb 3-4 times, turn the choke lever on to Full Choke, and pull the starter cord until the engine seems like to wants to start, but dies. Next, switch the choke lever to Half Choke and start the gas trimmer, giving it gas by pulling on the trigger. Once it has warmed up fully, you may be able to reduce the Half Choke to No Choke, although my 20+ years of experience with dozens and dozens of models tells me that many trimmers run better, although smoking slightly, when you keep them at Half Choke. One last tip, when pulling the cord, try pushing the trimmer away from you with the opposite hand at the exact same time that you are pulling the starter cord--the equal and opposite push-pull technique may sound like something from karate (and it is, in a way), but it is really helpful when trying to start trimmers. Best of luck, Bill
PS: Check you owner's manual (at home or online) for the proper gas/oil mixture. Empty any old gas out and replace the spark plug, if required.
you should have a drain plug at the side and bottom of the motor crank case its a small plug with a square head how old is your generator if new put 10w30 oil if old put sae30w if really bad add some lucas oil treatment also now a 9 h.p. should take less then 2 quarts
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