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Drive wheels lock up when pull mower back

Honda hrx217 drive wheel lock up when you pull the mower back.

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Here is what's going on. I cleaned the wheel "dogs" or whatever you call them multiple times. This DID NOT fix the problem. Look at the cable that engages the forward movement (self-propel function). If there is any slack in the cable near the handle, then there is retained tension at the transaxle. Not enough to move the mower forward, but enough to keep the wheel from freely rotating backwards. I tipped my HRX217 on it's side and located where this cable engages the drive box. Lubricate the heck out of it and coerce it to move with needle nose pliers. After thorough cleaning and lubricating both ends of the cable, I am now able to move the mower backwards without lock-up. Hope this helps someone, as I found nowhere on the internet that this is what REALLY fixes this

Posted on May 22, 2014

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I fixed this problem, even though my fix appears to be different from the other answers. The fix is simple lubrication of the wheels and associated axel.

My mower is a one year old Honda HRR1216VKA. Wheels locking up when pulling the mower backwards appear to be a common problem, yet it is not listed in the troubleshooting guide.

It's a good idea to follow the recommendation that says after mowing, turn off the gas line and let the engine run until the gas in the line runs out. You are going to be turning the mower over on both its sides and I think this may minimize gas flooding into the engine.

Hose out the underside of the mower deck, as usual after mowing. Also hose out the space between the wheels and the deck to remove sand/grass/dust/dirt. Of course, be careful not to get water into the carburetor, or to get the air filter wet, but I've never had a problem with this. Before going to the next step, I let my mower dry overnight.

Next, remove the air filter to prevent it from possibly getting wet with oil when you turn the mower over on its side with the gas cap near the ground. Lubricate the all moving parts associated with the wheels and the wheel axel. Lubricate where the axel shaft goes into the wheel and where the axel shaft goes into the metal box that covers the drive belt. I use "Zoom Spout" oil, and with the mower in its normal position, I use the spout to try and oil where the axil rod enters the inside of the wheel. Turn the mower over on both sides and apply the oil to the axel and wheels. This should free up the wheels.

Next, do the simple procedure to adjust the drive cable. For my mower, you simply move the palm paddles to the lowest position and then tighten the cable nut one rotation at a time until you feel resistance; then you loosen the cable by eight turns. Now your cable is correctly adjusted. See your mowers instructions.

Do you have a Honda with the two blade mulching system? This method is obsolete. I threw my two blades in the trash and bought a single blade of the new "alligator" type. The blade is tempered steel, mulches way better and keeps its edge longer. My blade is a Oregon Gator Mulcher 3-N-1 Blade For 21-Inch Honda Lawn Mowers 90-651

Posted on Apr 08, 2016

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I have a Honda HRX217 HXC lawnmower. I believe the C stand for Canadian so if you live in USA the C would be replace by an A. I had the same problem with my lawnmower, the back wheels would lock up when trying to go backward. If your lawnmower had no problem moving forward than than the transmission is not the problem. I did fix the problem by changing the transmission cable and oiling the return spring attached to the control arm and making sure the control arm wasn't jammed. If the control arm doesn't return fully in place then the hydrostatic pump will want to move the wheels forward. My lawnmower is about 12 years old and it started doing that intermittently two years ago. You can fix it yourself it is not difficult. There is video on youtube showing how to access the transmission, very well done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJvdn554q0A. It says it is for HRX537 but I found that model identical to HRX217 as far as details for reaching the transmission. You can find the parts diagram at www.partstree.com . You may have problems removing the bolts holding the plates securing the shutter in place or even the blades. I tried WD-40 but it didn't work. I bought an 22" socket wrench breaker bar but it broke my socket. I had to buy a socket for air impact tools. While your at it you may as well remove the back wheels and the little gears and put grease on the bushing and ratchet. It's well worth it. You will need circlip pliers. Make sure you don't loose the little spring and ratchet key when you remove the little gear. Also write down the positions of the washers and circlips. You may also find that the shutter arm is completely rusted and need to be changed including the bolt, washer, collar and nut. I also found the clutch cable was damaged and changed it. The vbelt didn't need to be changed and the mechanic at my Honda dealer told me he's never changed one. Before starting I took a pressure washer and cleaned up everywhere including the engine. It's more pleasant to work on a clean machine. My 12 y.o. mower is now almost like new. All of this for $55.00

Posted on May 31, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Honda Harmony mower, self propelled hydrostatic,

If i remember correctly, under each drive wheel, there is a small gear, and under each gear there is a small metal rod that is what the transmission uses to propel the mower...it sounds like the rods either have dirt on them or they are just stuck and can not move to allow you to pull it backwards

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

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If i remember correctly, under each drive wheel, there is a small gear, and under each gear there is a small metal rod that is what the transmission uses to propel the mower...it sounds like the rods either have dirt on them or they are just stuck and can not move to allow you to pull it backwards

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