Kenmore 70 series dryer cuts off after 10 minutes

Does it restart after it cools down? If so your motor may be overheating and shutting down.

It sounds like the hi-limit thermostate and/or the thermal cut-off is what is causing your dryer to shut down. Basically it's over heating. You should replace these two items togeather. Also the thermal cut-off will be triggered by a grounded out heating element. Here is a diagram of where these items are located. hope this helps
Figure W-6: Dryer Rear Access

The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse. The cycling thermostat's failure to cycle off the heating element results in overheating of the dryer which consequently blows the thermal fuse open.




Replacing only the thermal fuse should the dryer stops running and fails to start will result in its premature blowing or even the thermal cut-out (cut-off) located on the heater duct. Like the cycling thermostat, the high-limit thermostat must also be replaced once the thermal cut-out blows open. Refer to the parts diagram in the link below and look for item numbers 31(thermal cut-off), 34(hi-limit thermostat), 39(thermal fuse), and 41(cycling thermostat.

Kenmore Series 70 Electric Dryer (110.74722400) Bulkhead Parts

Bad timer. Try to find a used one if possible, this item is a little expensive.

that sounds like the dryer motor going bad,most of the time they run alittle then stop,or when you push the start button it just buzzes-mike

Motor may be over heating.may need new motor.

I have a kenmore elite , smart pac,he3, it will run for 10 min then shut off and a code (F 70 ) will start flashing, what does that mean.

what starts and stops? the entire dryer or maybe the drum? Do you do anything to make it restart other than pushing the start button? This initially sounds like a temperature switch is opening and resetting after it cools. If you can describe the problem a little more in detail it would help.

check the door switch first if it is ok ..(doors not popping open) then the PTS (push to Start) switch is most likely bad as it wont hold in after it was pressed

sounds like the timer, unless it has a Evenheat contol board and a seperate motor relay, in which case its most likely the relay, or could be the computer