Husqvarna cth 180 the shaft as brocken on the rear axle can I replace it

Popping axles out can be a chore for the experienced mechanic as well. Just a spring steel circlipp nestled in a groove is all that is keeping it in. Often using the axle shaft as a slide hammer to push the CV-joint splined shaft back in can help to give a little room for a running start on the way back out. Two pry bars as close to 180° apart as you can get than pressure applied back and forth to walk the shaft out will produce the best results in getting the spring clip to compress back down into its groove to clear the splined inner diameter or the drive gear in the trans axle.
On occasion I have had to use a brass hammer on the prybar to coerce the shaft free.
Once or twice due to poor access in getting opposing fulcrums on the transaxle housing to pry on the cup , simply held tension on one side an tapped a wedge between the cup and housing to provide the needed pressure.
Always check for a complete spring clip once the axle is out and fish with a magnet if not.
Also avoid damaging the seal in the housing by not going directly radially in with prybar or at least by applying the pressure towards the housing so the tip of bar is not bending or cutting the seal.
Safety glasses!

I guess this is a rear wheel, so the wheel just slides onto the gearbox axle with a square key, unfortunatly if the shaft hast rusted it will be tight, be very carefull pulling too hard as you could pull the axle shaft out of the gearbox which would then mean taking the gearbox apart to re fit the circlip on the other end.

look for out of round tires or a bent axle.

Check the drive belt. This belt runs from the engine to the transaxle. Look for abnormal wear and if the sides of the belt look glazed/shiny. Check the pulley mechanism that tightens the belt for proper operation and belt tension while engaged.
Try reducing the speed selector. This is equivalent to running in a lower gear. Your tractor works hard just to turn the blade. Going uphill requires additional power, so some reduction in speed is to be expected.

This machine has a fairly simple chain drive to the wheel axle shaft, there is a sprocket on the shaft itself, this may have started to move on the shaft, the only answer here is to strip the gearbox, once the box is away from the engine and sundry parts it is just a matter of removing 30 or so screws to split the box, it is a grase filled box so there is no need to drain.

you will get all that on the engine manufacturers web site under that size engine

what about it?

conventional axle or limited slip? Get axle code off door sticker.

SECTION 205-02: Rear Drive Axle/Differential - Ford 8.8-Inch Ring Gear 1998 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Rear Wheel Bearing and Axle Shaft Oil Seal -4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI, Conventional
Special Tool(s) Axle Seal Replacer
T83T-1175-A Axle Wheel Bearing Puller
T83T-1225-A Axle Wheel Bearing Replacer
T83T-1225-B Driver Handle
T80T-4000-W Impact Slide Hammer
T50T-100-A
Removal

1. Remove the axle shaft; refer to Axle Shaft in this section.

Axle Shaft Removal

1. CAUTION: Do not use heat to loosen a seized lug nut. Heat can damage the wheel (1007) and the rear wheel bearings (1225).
   Loosen the lug nuts (1012).
   1. Remove the center cap.
   1. With the weight of the vehicle on the wheels, loosen the lug nuts.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   1. Remove the lug nuts.
   1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

1. Remove the axle housing cover (4033).
   1. Loosen the axle housing cover bolts (4346) and drain the rear axle (4001).
   1. Remove the axle housing cover bolts.
   1. Remove the axle housing cover.

1. Remove the rear disc brake rotors (2C026); refer to Section 206-04 .

1. CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft (4211) has been removed, turning the differential case (4204) or an axle shaft (4234) will cause the differential pinion gears (4215) to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
   Remove the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves.
   Remove the U-washers (4N237).
   1. Push the axle shafts inboard.
   1. Remove the U-washers.

1. Reinstall the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt finger-tight.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal (1177).
   Remove the two axle shafts.

Installation

1. Lubricate the lip of the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
   • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

1. CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft has been removed, turning the differential case or an axle shaft will cause the differential pinion gears to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
   Remove the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
   Install the two axle shafts.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves.
   Install the U-washers.
   1. Position the two U-washers on the button end of the axle shafts.
   1. Pull the axle shafts outward.

1. Install the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Align the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the differential pinion shaft lock bolt hole.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.

1. Install the rear disc brake rotors; refer to Section 206-04 .

1. Install the axle housing cover and fill the rear axle housing (4010) with 2.4 liters (5.5 pints) of specified lubricant; refer to Axle Housing Cover in this section.

1. WARNING: Always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign material that may be present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the surface of the wheel hub or rear disc brake rotor that contacts the wheel. Installing wheels without proper metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the lug nut to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, causing loss of control.
   Clean the wheel hub and mounting surfaces.

1. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
   1. Position the tire and wheel assembly.
   1. Install the lug nuts and lower the vehicle.
   1. Tighten the lug nuts.
   1. Install the center cap.

1. CAUTION: Never remove the axle shaft oil seal by itself. Always remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal at the same time.
   NOTE: If the axle shaft oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged with debris.
   Use Impact Slide Hammer and Axle Wheel Bearing Puller to remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal.

Installation

1. Lubricate the new rear wheel bearing.
   1. Use Thermally Stable Rear Axle Lubricant XY-80W90-QL or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSP-M2C197-A.

1. Use Axle Wheel Bearing Replacer with Driver Handle to install the rear wheel bearing.

1. Lubricate the lip of the new axle shaft oil seal.
   • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

1. Use Axle Seal Replacer with Driver Handle to install the axle shaft oil seal.

1. Install the axle shaft; refer to Axle Shaft in this section.

I'd say yes. The differential fluid is often overlooked by oil change technicians, even though it's something that should be topped off periodically.

It probably would cost more than that to repair it once it wears out.
Axle Housing Assembly Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Lift the vehicle.
2. Drain the lubricant from the rear axle housing.
3. Remove the rear axle assembly from the vehicle.
4. Remove the brake caliper brackets from the rear hubs.
5. Remove the rear cover and gasket from the rear axle housing.
6. Remove the rear axle shafts from the vehicle.
7. Remove the rear differential assembly from the vehicle.
8. Remove the brake backing plates from the rear hubs.
9. Remove the rear drive pinion shaft yoke and seal from the drive pinion.
10. Remove the drive pinion from the rear axle housing.

To Install:

1. Install the drive pinion into the rear axle housing.
2. Install the rear drive pinion shaft yoke and seal onto the drive pinion.
3. Install the rear differential assembly into the vehicle.
4. Adjust the differential side bearing preload and the backlash.
5. Perform a gear tooth contact pattern check.
6. Install the brake backing plates onto the rear hubs.
7. Install the rear axle shafts into the vehicle.
8. Install the rear cover and gasket onto the rear axle housing.
9. Install the brake caliper brackets onto the rear hubs.
10. Install the rear axle assembly into the vehicle.
11. Refill the lubricant in the rear axle housing.
12. Lower the vehicle.

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I think that changing the fluid would take about an hour, and depending on the garage, and the labor rate, that they might elect to take the rear cover off of the differential, and drain it that way and replace the fluid once it was put back on. He could inspect the gears while the cover was off and tell you how bad it was.'

Do you hear any clunking or gear mesh noises from the rear when putting it in gear or running the vehicle?


Some mechanics would simply top off the fluid and wait until it wears out, which could be several thousand miles in the future.

Use gear oil for it of the recommended viscosity in the service manual.

Generally thicker than motor oil.

So, adding fluid would cost only the amount of the fluid plus some labor.
A bottle of fluid might cost $9.99 or so depending on where you get it.

You might be able to do this yourself if you crawl under there, remove the fill plug at the top, and just add gear oil. If there isn't enough room you might drive it up on some ramps and then crawl under there.

First thing is to make sure you chock the front tires so the truck will not roll. Raise the rear end and set it on jack stands. Put the transmission in Neutral and make sure the parking brake is off. Remove the rear tires and disassemble the brakes on the side with the leaking seal. Place a drain pan under the rear differential and remove the cover. Remove the differential shaft lock bolt. You will need to turn the drive shaft by hand to access the bolt. It will be on the right side off the spider gear housing. Only use a 5/16 or 8mm 6 point box end wrench to remove the bolt. After you remove the bolt reach on the top of the spider gear housing and push the differential lock shaft down to remove it. Make sure the spider gears do not rotate after you remove the shaft. If they do you will need to realign everything to reinstall the lock shaft. Push the axle shaft in enough to remove the "C" clip from the tip of it. The axle will now slide out of the rear end. You can use the tip of the axle shaft to remove the axle seal. If you're changing the bearing as well you will need a slide hammer with axle bearing adapters to remove it. You can use a socket and hammer to install the new bearing and seal. Be careful not to damage the bearing and seal. I recommend packing grease in the back side of the seal. This helps prevent the spring on the seal lip from coming off. Assembly is the reverse. Clean off all the gear oil from the differential cover and the axle. You can use RTV as a gasket if the OEM gasket is damaged. Fill the rear end with new gear oil of the proper type. Refer to your owner's manual.

The rear diff. turns the rear wheels. It is located in the middle of the rear axle. It won't last long if you ignore it. May just need dearing's but if it is driven the cog wheels will grind to dust or drop off this can cause the rear axle to seize up and can be a danger because the back wheels will lock up. If you are going to fix it yourself let me know and I will be able to guide you through the process