Bake button doesn't work even after ignitor replaced

pull out the racks and remove the bottom floor of the oven,turn it on bake,if the ignitor doesn't glow most likely it's bad,if it does glow and it doesn't ignite within 40 to 60 seconds the ignitor is bad.even though it glows doesn't mean it's good,it works by amps.it takes 3.2 amps.for a flat ignitor to open the gas valve and 2.5 amps for a round ignitor to open the gas valve.

Turn off the gas supply to the range. Remove the oven racks,oven base pan,flame spreader.

Place a clamp on amp meter on one wire of the ignitor and turn the oven on to BAKE. When the ignitor glows it should read more than 3 amps. If it reads 3 amps or less replace the ignitor.
If it does not glow at all,replace the ignitor.

You are correct, it's the heat sensor. Easy to replace.

You will have to replace the electronic control.

Is the bake igniter working ? There are two igniters one for bake and one for broil My guess is that the bake igniter is bad and only the broil igniter is working. part #WB2X9154.

I just read that the electronic panel malfunctions due to rear burner use. Now, I know that mine gets REALLY HOT in between the back burners (where the heat exhaust for the oven is) whenever I bake/broil. I am guessing that it can cause the same malfunction fromt he oven, as with the backburners. Whenever I use both back burners, mine shows F7 E6, too. Unplugging it for the night or just waiting til the beeping stops and then clearing it works... until I cook again. I read that the replacement part for the control panel is about $300 and another $200, more or less, to install it! I think this is more like a recall or manufacturer's problem. I have read plenty of complaints and I think GE needs to make a call to fix them!!

Anyone has any information as to how to fix my describe problem with GE Profile Gas Range I have.

Thanks

My next step would be to replace the two gas coils. They are located on top the gas valve. Disconnect the elect. leads, pull upward on coils. Replace w/newones. The difference is a primary and secondary, one has two elect. prongs and one has three. Note which one goes where when you remove them and install new ones in the opposite. These tell the gas valves when to activate and allow gas to flow to your igniter. When they malfunction, and they do, you wont have gas flowing.

when pressed does the oven make any noise, beeping or clicking of some kind? if not then you need to replace your touch pad

Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace.
Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265;
rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.

Good luck!