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Posted on Nov 29, 2008
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Dryer will not turn on (electric) does it need time to heat up?

Does it need time to warm heating element?

  • 1 more comment 
  • ni law Nov 29, 2008




    when on button is pushed, doesnt come on, but if u hold it, u hear this sound as if it is abt to initialize, but doesn't come on.


  • stratus5b Feb 21, 2009

    Same problem. It was working fine and after switching loads this problem started. No warning at all.

  • Johnny Ramirez
    Johnny Ramirez May 11, 2010

    WELL IS MACHINE TURNING ON OR NOT

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2 Answers

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  • Kenmore Master 3,361 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 21, 2009
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If you are hearing a buzzing sound and the motor does not run, it is either a bad motor or the motor blower wheel is bound up with lint.
Access the motor and check for blockage. Repair as needed.
If no blockage and the sound is heard----bad motor.

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  • Master 1,122 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 30, 2008
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Most of the time if you try to start it and it don't come on and just makes a sound the motor is to weak to kbink it on(bad motor)mike

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 331 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 23, 2007

SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer Stays Warm

Yes, get a new element. The reason it's on all the time is because the element coils have broken and one of the coils is touching the canister that encloses it. This creates a direct short to ground. By the way, the element has 120 volts to it all the time. It will only HEAT when 240 is applied through the centrifugal switch of the motor. Your 120 volts is shorting to ground... not enough amps to trip the circuit breaker, but enough to glow the element.

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Anonymous

  • 1122 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 05, 2008

SOURCE: Cabrio Electric Dryer Heating Element

have you checked the high temp thermostat?

David Shaub

  • 2994 Answers
  • Posted on May 02, 2009

SOURCE: Dryer just quit heating

First-***DISCONNECT THE ELECTRICITY***. Open the back of the dryer. The element will be in a flat metal tube running from the top to the bottom of the back of the dryer. There will be a few wires connected to it. Mark where these go for reassembly. The heater wires are inside the tube. The whole assembly comes apart quite easily to replace the element. It looks like a stretched out spring.

Anonymous

  • 1214 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 11, 2009

SOURCE: replace electric heat element in Amana dryer

You can find an exploded view of the dryer on searspartsdirect.com. Looks like you access from the rear service panel.

Anonymous

  • 6784 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 25, 2009

SOURCE: Our model 110.62822101 220 v electric dryer doers

HI. There are a few areas i would advise to check to resolve this issue.

The dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate the temperature. When the temperature is higher than the preset limit of a particular thermostat, the thermostat breaks the circuit and the heater goes off. When the temperature cools enough, the thermostat closes the circuit again and the heat can come on.

Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch or timer control then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat.

If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, or cause long drying periods This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.

A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater would not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, This is called a thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just cut out again. The most common cause of overheating and long drying periods, will be a clogged ventilation assembly. Be sure to inspect the entire ventilation Assembly for build up. This will cause issues, if obstructions exist.

The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Clothes not drying

Clothes not drying? Thats it? Does the dryer turn on at all? Does it tumble the clothes but doesn't get warm? If it turns on and tumbles but takes a long time to dry, then your heating element is not working. There is a thermal fuse right before the heating element that will open up if the vent becomes clogged and its gets too hot. The thermal fuse is not resettable and will have to be replaced. If the thermal fuse is o.k. then your heating element could be burned out. These two items almost require an electrical meter to read continuity to check them. Make sure the dryer is unplugged before checking these items.
0helpful
1answer

The dryer seems to be working but there is no heat . when i turn it on it turns for the set amount on time but it does not get warm or hot

GAS OR ELECTRIC, IF 220V ELECTRIC CHECK YOUR BREAKERS TURN THEM OFF THEN BACK ON.THE MOTOR WILL RUN IF ONE BREAKER IS BLOWN,OTHERWISE YOU MAY HAVE A BLOWN SENSOR OR HEATING ELEMENT.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba

4helpful
2answers

No heat coming from dryer

Double check the circuit breaker for the dryer (Electric Neptune). Turn it off, then turn it back on. Its possible that the breaker may have tripped for some reason, but wasn't able to trip all the way.

Does the interior of the dryer get warm at all? You could have a 1 of multiple heating elements that has shorted. If no heat at all, the likely a heating element has opened up. Unplug dryer from wall (turn off circuit breaker first!). Use a ohm meter to measure and check continuity of the heating elements.

There may also be a sail switch in the air path of the dryer. The purpose of the sail switch is to keep the elements turned off until there is enough air blowing through the dryer. This helps prevent fires, as well as shrunken denim.
0helpful
1answer

Dryer element stays warm

If it heats w/ the timer in off position whenever plugged in the the element is shorting to ground, its most likely due to either a broken coil or a cracked insulator. If heating w/ timer set for drying but motor is not running, the heat circuit thru the centrifugal/start switch on the motor is stuck closed.
1helpful
1answer

Dryer not putting out warm to hot air. What is the issue?

Hope this info helps, ps don't forget to give me a rating thanks!!


For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
If the breaker checks out, then it’s time to do some surgery. Unplug the dryer and open it up.
. Use your ohm meter to test the thermostats. All should show continuity.
Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
In rare cases, the centrifugal switch in the motor can fail which breaks the power circuit for the heating elements. If this is the case, then the entire motor must be replaced since the centrifugal switch is built into the motor.
May 07, 2009 • Dryers
1helpful
2answers

MAYTAG PYE2300AYW ELECTRIC DRYER running but no heating

you need to take it apart if you'd like call 417-926-0106 i'll walk you through it Jim
0helpful
1answer

Maytag ele dryer only gets warm

You have two breakers that control the heating elements.  Check both by turning off then on.  If one is open, the motor will still turn.
0helpful
1answer

Dryer not heating

skjessie the first thing I always advise is to turn the breakers off then back on. Electric dryers use 240 volts for the heating element only. The motor is 120 volts. If the dryer still isn't heating, then you may have a bad heater, tripped thermal limiter, or bad control unit.
0helpful
1answer

How do you replace the heating element

first you need to make sure the heating element is the problem dryers will run on 110 but will not heat with out 220 first you need to confirm that you have 220 then let me know what you find hold my rating till we are done and don't buy a heating element yet
1helpful
1answer

Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer Stays Warm

Yes, get a new element. The reason it's on all the time is because the element coils have broken and one of the coils is touching the canister that encloses it. This creates a direct short to ground. By the way, the element has 120 volts to it all the time. It will only HEAT when 240 is applied through the centrifugal switch of the motor. Your 120 volts is shorting to ground... not enough amps to trip the circuit breaker, but enough to glow the element.
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