Question about Water Heaters
I have a Stiebel Eltron DHC 2-10 water heater that I installed in a new house I am building. I have it installed under the kitchen sink and built a little distribution manifold out of PVC that is connected to the hot water line coming from the water heater. There are 3 lines coming off the manifold - 1 for each shower, and 1 for the kitchen sink. One of the showers is on the other side of the wall where the kitchen sink is, so the distance from the hot water heater to the shower faucet and kitchen faucet is about the same.
OK, so that's the setup. My problem is that in the showers, where I have identical Moen 1 handle faucets, the water is either really hot or cold. When I feather the handle back to get the water warm instead of hot, it stays hot until I get to a certain point and then the water turns cold. The faucet in my kitchen sink is a 1 handle faucet as well and it is working perfectly - I get hot, warm, or cold water.
I have taken the cartridges out of the shower faucets and took them apart to check for debris or something that would cause a problem and found nothing. I even switched the cartridges between the two shower faucets to see if that would make a difference and it didn't. I spent a couple of hours trying to adjust the flow control screw on the water heater, as well as adjusting the control valve on the cold water line going into the hot water heater. I turned the valve to restrict water flow into the hot water heater, and adjusted the flow control screw in the hot water heater. I did this while the water was running in the shower and I made every adjustment I thought possible to nothing works.
My thought is that either my shower faucets are faulty which doesn't seem likely, or somehow the holes in the shower control valve for the hot and cold water are so small that when I turn the handle to a certain point it is almost closing off the hot water side and signals the hot water heater that the line is closed, but that's just a guess. Any ideas of what the problem could be?
I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.
So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
I have the same problem in with my shower faucet. My solution is to use a bucket. First fill half ice cold water and then remaining half with scalding hot water. This gives warm water. You can use a mug to finish your shower (I don't know what else you call it). This also saves water.
Posted on Nov 07, 2012
This indicates that perhaps the temperater is as you thought flow regulated. the more the flow the lower the temperature.
this could also indicate a lack of linear controll in the heater unit (i wonder how old it is) if the unit has two heat settings ie high and normal/low try setting it to a lower input wattage.
here in uk we normally have 2 settings 4 kw and then watever the maximum is
if you wish give me the exact model no and age etc. and i will contact manufacturer on your behalf and ascertain problem
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
On the Tempra 29 there is a "safety thermal cut-out" on the top of each of the heating elements within the box. I have had to open it up before to push the breaker. They are a small red plastic push button on the top. Carefully press the braker button without touching the electrical wiring inside. I hope that works for you.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
SOURCE: The water heater "Stiebel Eltron
I am a free answerer, and I specialize in giving you resources for free
The paid answerers may have a person who knows your product and the problems associated with your model.
I believe they offer a refund if the 'fix' doesn't work.
The manual might also have troubleshooting.
Each day I see 20-25 unanswered questions about tankless water heaters.
And the day before, there were same number of unanswered questions about tankless products.
The number of questions shows the complexity of the machines, the brand-specific-ness of the problems, and the inability of the manufactures to take care of their customers.
If I understand correctly, the manufacturer will refer you to the installer.
There are not many ways a do-it-yourself-er can fix a tankless.
Posted on Oct 31, 2010
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