Hobart a-200 3rd gear lock-up issue

It sounds like there may be a few potential issues that could be causing the resistance you are experiencing:

1. Incorrect installation of the slow speed gear or key - If the slow speed gear or key were installed incorrectly, this could cause increased resistance in certain gears. Double-check the installation of these components to ensure they are properly oriented and positioned.
2. Stuck gears - If the gears and key are stuck on the drive shaft, this could cause increased resistance. Try removing the gears and key again, and make sure they are clean and free of any debris before re-installing them.
3. Improper alignment of the gears - If the gears are not properly aligned, this could cause increased resistance. Check to make sure the gears are properly seated and aligned with each other.
4. Damage to the worm wheel - The freshly chewed up center of the worm wheel could be causing increased resistance. Consider replacing the worm wheel if it appears to be damaged.

Overall, it may be helpful to consult the Hobart service manual for your specific model to ensure all components are installed correctly and to troubleshoot any additional issues that may be causing the resistance.

The first vertical shaft has a brass gear that runs off the rotor. The ancient models had a spring loaded slip clutch built onto the gear. Upgrade it with a worm shaft kit which gives you a complete new shaft and fixed gears. I think it includes the upper and lower bearings. Maybe replace the grease if it has not been done. Or look for a sheared key on the worm shaft.

The frequency is the same in all gears.
disconnect the power and invert the mixer and remove the planetary after driving out the taper pin, then you can access the transmission. It may be a rotor shaft bearing in the motor or no grease on the worm gears.
Nice touch with the video.
If you need parts:

Short answer: something is worn/broken inside the mixer's transmission.

Longer answer:

Since none of the three gears operate, the problem is most likely on either the worm gear shaft (probably the brass worm gear itself) or the "transmission shaft" (ironic name as all three shafts could be called transmission shafts). If you're up to the task of disassembling the transmission, which is a very messy task, you'd probably find the problem on one of the two smaller shafts inside the transmission. You'll most likely find either a broken key or worn brass worm gear. Both of these items may have enough holding strength to operate under very light loads (such as an empty bowl) but slip once a load is presented.
Also check the planetary key. Remove the planetary by removing two nuts on the underside of the transmission, where the attachments attach (careful, as the whole thing will drop once the second, thin nut is removed). You will find a long key on the shaft (or in the planetary gear, whichever one it sticks to). Make sure it's not broken, and re-attach the planetary.

Once you're familiar with it, the A200 is OK to work on. Just pay close attention to the sequence in which the gears are removed and lay them out on a table in that sequence. You'd need to remove most of the gears from the center planetary shaft, which requires removal of the shift lever (right side, 4 screws). You shouldn't need to remove the planetary (lower end that holds the attachments and rotates). Eventually you'll be able to remove the smaller shafts as assemblies and replace the brass worm gear.

You'll want to scoop out the grease with brass shavings in it (replace all the grease to be thorough, especially if it has broken down and is very runny or very thick (the grease should be a little bit thinner than the consistency of peanut butter), spin the removed bearings by hand and listen for rough operation (particularly the smaller bearings on the upper end of the two small shafts (bearings in the upper bearing cover). Also check to see that the two brass bushings, which reside in two of the gears removed from the center planetary shaft, spin freely BOTH on the planetary shaft AND in the gear they reside in (if not, one of your speeds probably won't work).

For an experienced technician, the job would take approximately 1-1.5 hours unless the old grease is all cleaned out thoroughly to replace with all new grease (thorough cleaning requires the removal of planetary and planetary shaft), and thorough cleaning can be a time consuming process. Then you might get closer to 2.5 hours.

Have you try to run the motor without engaing of worm gears? The worm gear 15T assembly need to remove in order for motor to run freely. check worm gear attach to motor shaft for any damaging.

Lock out-Tagout the machine. Remove the top cover, hold the beater shaft while removing the center shaft nut. Then remove the 4 bolts and and hardware on top of the first(worm) shaft and the second(clutch)shaft. you can gently tap the top cover up with a cold chisel on the upper parts of the housing. It's just a friction fit , aligned on two dowels. Once the cover is off, scoop out the grease, remove the side panel and selector assembly. Try and lift all of the first gear assembly together. the newer ones have a series of rollers and springs, which can be easily reassembled, if you see which way everything was. As you rmove parts, lay them on a clean surface in a row in the position they came out. The selector sleeve is marked TOP, but looking at the 4 drive teeth each side, you will see how it drives 2nd and 3rd gears. The clutch and worm shafts lift out together from slip fit bearings in the housing base.

When reassembling, coat everything with new grease, and run before loading all the grease. If you need to remove anything , you won't be up to your wrists in grease doing it. Once all is good, load the grease in the top hole nearest the motor with it running. The gears will feed the grease as you load the 35 OZ.
If you removed the planetary to remove the center shaft, don't tighten the half nut tight. back it off a half turn and lock it with the acorn nut. Otherwise you will loose first gear from pinch friction.

no there are no adjustments . you must have bent the case just a little , i dont see any good news for you , sorry . i have worked on hobart mixers for years and you should get 5-10 years out of that gear

sometimes you read of other problems and solutions and it puts you at the edge of your seat. in this case of changing the worm gear on the A200F was cake. when you drop the lower end (3/4 acorn and jam nut), pull out yoke (speed select handle) the center transmision shaft and gears pull right out.worm gear easy to change at this point. if you can change a motor bearing, then you can do this job. Note: change seals and bearings as needed,check all gears,keys and spacers for wear and if you go the mile take gears off drive gears, these are the 2 smaller trans shafts put in lath if you have accsess to one if not roll shafts on flat surface to see that shafts have no bends in them. Also remember when you put the bottom back do not over tighten the jam nut,hold and lock acorn nut, should spin free and have about .016 to .030 movement up or down. Lay out all part on cardboard the way they came out. should go back together easy.

Harry Ooooooooooo

When you say lag and catch up. This may not be a issue. I have seen this with dough and a spiral hooks on all sizes of Hobarts the hook and dough get in a position to push the hook forward and the drive gears catch back up the hook. in fist gear on the 20 quart this is common for sure. but its normal. if you have a real slip from a sheared key it will not take long to where you can hold the planetary shaft with your hand and stop it. another slip that might be possible is if your mixer has the first generation worm shaft gear Assembly. when it is worn out it will slip you. this is the shaft that drives directly off the motor. you can tell if it's first Gen by it has a large spring on it. the tow later versions are all keyed to the shaft no chance to slip unless a key shears.
Michael