Generator Armature Removal Honda EMS 4500

Check oil alert switch, ignition switch and connections.

If it has not been run in a while, the generator field may be weak and may need ot be flashed. Also make sure the motor is running up to full RPM.

No special tool needed (usually). The armature is resting on a tapered part of the shaft. Assuming that you have removed the stator and have exposed the armature and have removed the center bolt. Apply penetrating oil to shaft so that the oil can enter between shaft and armature (wait for oil to work at least half hour). Hold piece of hardwood against metal part of armature (first one side then other) and rap very firmly with heavy hammer. Be careful not to hit metal directly or wiring. If the oil has done its work, the armature will come off with first couple of hits. If not add more oil and wait. Then try again. Good luck.

Remove cover to the generator and remove the brush holder (if brush type) and any other parts bolted to rear. Remove wiring harness plug (most generators have an easy method to unplug all the wire from panel). Unbolt and remove the outer bell of generator leaving only the armature(use caution not to damage wiring, use camera to photo document the steps ). Remove the center bolt thru armature into crank. With piece of hardwood and large hammer, rap on one side of armature (metal part) then the other (careful not to miss the wood and damage the armature or wiring). The armature sits on tapered crank and will stick over time, may need to use penetrating oil. If your lucky, only takes a few hits on each side to break contact. Good luck

You have to remove the 4 bolts that holds the generator unit together. Some generators have a center cap which you have to remove to expose the long bolt that holds the armature on to the engine. Then remove where the end of the generator mounts to the frame it is sitting on. Loosen up the engine mounts and prop the generator end up slightly by putting a block of wood between where the engine and generator end housing come together. You have to unloosen the center bolt which holds the armature on to the engine. Do not take it out yet just loosen it and whith a block of wood against it hit the wood with a hammer to loosen the armature from the engine because it is on a tappered shaft. Make sure after you hit the wood on the bolt that the bolt is still loose or you have to loosen it a little more. After the armature loosens up you should loosen the bolt and remove it. You should be able to pull the rotar and stator away from the engine and with a punch tap where the armature goes in to the bearing and push it out.

The shaft to engine has male tapered end and fits very tightly to armature of gen. Remove stator and remove center bolt thru armature. Place a piece of hardwood aganst metal part of armature and rap with hammer (one side then the other). Very carefull not to damage the windings or metal parts of the armature. If it does not come loose in short order apply penetration lubricant and wait for it to soak in. Good luck

At the controller, you need to see if it is actually sending electricity out of the Generator/Alternator, have a look where the leads from the power making unit mates, (Think of it as a motor in reverse) onto the board. There should be an AC Voltage there, then, work back, or out from there, trace the Voltage until it stops, thats the problem... Check the Breaker isn't tripped or faulty too.

The armature (rotating field) is powered by the voltage regulator for 'excitation' which is the term describing a magnetic, revolving field. This magnetic field 'induces' voltage into the stator windings (stationary outer winding), producing voltage for use at the recepticles. Some older generators used a 'permanent magnet field, instead of using a powered winding from a regulator and the voltage and frequency were set by the RPM.
Frequency is still a function of RPM, but the voltage is controlled by the voltage regulator.


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I have a ems 4500 honda, the gas tank looks like the upper bar needs to be removed to get the gas tank off, it does. Follow the
top bar down on each of the corners. Where the top bar meets with the bar below the gas tank, you will find a bolt in each of the tubes. Take these screws out, use a hammer to tap the top bar upward lightly at each corner. You should see the tubing sliding up out of the bottom tubes.

As far as I can tell on the wiring diagram for this generator there is no voltage regulator unless it's incorporated with the auto throttle unit.
To lower the voltage you need to lower the speed of the generator engine. To do this there should be a screw on top of the engine under the tank when your facing the recoil. This screw presses on a arm that controls your governor. Turning it in (righty tighty) will increase rpms, turning it out will lower them. You should see the voltage change on the voltmeter.