If you have determined the wiring to be correct, then yes, the remote is probably defective..
According to Lightolier literature, your Lightolier OS600 is called a "strap dimmer". Having 540W on a 600w rated switch is pretty close to the limit (90%) of the switch, and will cause the switch to fail sooner than say a 300w load. The 600w rating of the switch applies only if all the heating sink fins are in place. Often times, when installing in a box with another switch or dimmer, fins must be removed to allow the switch to physically fit. If any fins are removed, the rating of the switch is reduced. Page 30 of the manual shows that a 600w strap dimmer that has a single fine removed is reduced to a 500w capacity dimmer, and if both fins are removed, it is reduced to a 400w dimmer. You may find that you will need a 1000w dimmer to reliably gain control of your 540w load, as it will control 600w even with both fins removed. This derating is required due to the heat created by the dimmer. Heat is a killer for electronics, and solid state dimmers are no exception.
Check out page 32 of that manual. On it, are wiring diagrams for dimmers and switches. I believe your is figure "G" that shows the 120v "hot" (black) connected to the black wire of ALL switches, the yellow wires of ALL the switches are connected together, but are not connected to anything else, the 120v neutral (white) connects to the MASTER white wire AND light fixture white wire and finally, the MASTER red wire connects to the light fixture black wire.
It is also important to note that these switches are for standard tungsten incandescent and quartz halogen lamps ONLY. They are NOT suitable for CFL, Fluorescent or other types frequently found in commercial / industrial buildings such as neon or other gas lamps such as Metal Halide, Mercury Vapor, High Pressure Sodium, etc.
I hope this helps & good luck!
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I just moved into a home with a Lightolier onset 3 way dimmer setup. Master is os600, remote dimmer is osr-3. The master dimmer is working, the remote dimmer does nothing. This is rated for 600W, and the total load is 540W so it should be fine. However, looking at the wiring, I'm wondering if it's wired incorrectly (thought I can't find any spec sheet out there that describe this models' wiring setup).
On the master dimmer, the copper wire from dimmer housing is connected to copper ground wire in the wall. The top wire coming from the dimmer (yellow) is connected to a red wire that is marked with yellow electrical tape...I'm assuming this is correct. Bottom left wire coming from the dimmer (red) is connected to a black wire. Bottom right wire coming from the dimmer (Black) is connected to a different black wire, but this one is marked with red electrical tape. Thinking this was incorrect I switched the bottom wires, but it rendered the master dimmer useless so I switched it back.
On the remote dimmer, the copper wire from dimmer housing is connected to copper ground wire in the wall. The top wire coming from the dimmer (grey) is also connected to copper ground wire in the wall. Could this be incorrect? Bottom left wire coming from the dimmer (black) is connected to two black wires. Bottom right wire coming from the dimmer (yellow) is connected to a red wire.
I'm tempted to move the top grey wire, as it seems out of place connected to copper ground wire, but I'm hesitant to short circuit the switch. Any help is most appreciated!
Update: I retried switching the bottom wires on the master dimmer, and this time the lights worked from the master (but still not from the remote dimmer). I also found the spec sheet for this model, and the wires appear to be connected correctly. Could the remote dimmer be broken? The LED locator seems to be on.
Thanks...very helpful and that seems to be the problem!
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