SOURCE: Broken selector switch
TURN OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Lift out cooktop, remove all machine screws holding the glass frame. Remove plastic knobs and lift glass top straight up. Make sure rubber gromits are not ripped or torn. Unscrew the small screws on the selector switch and then lift up and tilt over the small aluminum chasis holding the switches to expose the wiring connections. Pull off the wires and pull out the defective switch. Replacre switch, connect wires, re-seat switch chasis, and secure switch with screws. Carefully drop in the glasstop lining up the switch shafts and the rubber grommets. Secure the top with machine screws and drop back in the cutout.
SOURCE: GE profile performance electric cook
Confirm there is 240 VAC powering the unit (make sure a breaker has not tripped or a fuse blown.).
Did the burners ever produce enough heat?
If yes, then we can look deeper. If no, then the burners may not be adequate for your cooking style. Burners are like light bulbs. A 60 watt bulb will put out more light than a 40 watt bulb. A 100 watt bulb will put out more light than a 60.
Typically, a small burner will provide less cooking heat than a large burner.
SOURCE: Burner only cooks on high heat.
You need the switch for that burner. The contacts inside are stuck together. You will need to pull the unit and separate the glass from the lower body to access it. To get the right switch you need full model and serial number located on a plate at the bottom of the unit.
Your ability to perform this is dependent on how mechanical you are. The Whole unit must be removed from the counter opening and the base unscrewed from the glass, remove knobs before disassembling. For someone mechanical this is not difficult. De-energize whole unit first.
Once the two pieces are separated the remainder is mechanically easier. Disassemble the box on right containing the switches and replace the correct one. Reverse the process for reassembly. Good Luck
SOURCE: Have a four burner gas GE Profile cooktop. How do
The igniter module is working fine. One of the switches (which are on each valve shaft) is stuck or shorted out. Pull a wire off each one at a time to determine which one is bad. Careful! 120 volts to each wire. Also, this can happen after you spill water into the valve area, if that sounds right, let it dry out.
SOURCE: Large section of dual burner not working
If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
Enter a Part Number:
Enter a Model Number:
Enter a Keyword:137 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×