It has been in storage for several years and I just realized that, stupidly, I left gas in the tank. I siphoned it off, and put in new gas, but the tiller wouldn't start. I removed the airfilter and sprayed starting fluid...started right up...but would only run if i kept dosing the carb with the fluid. Decided I'd better ask somebody who knows what to do next.
Gas left for years turn to goo.
The tank is probably gunked up and rancid. The same goes for the carb.
Both need to be cleaned.
You should be good to go if you get both cleaned.
an new oil seal needs to be put onto the output shaft of the transmission. remove the plug wire if you attempt to pry out the old seal and tap in the new seal. Be careful not to damage the case and grease the seal and shaft when you replace the oil seal
Have you tried squirting gas into carburetor to see if it will keep running? If that keeps it running as long as you are squirting gas in it, your carb need to be cleaned out/repaired.
Most likely the carburetor jet is still clogged after sitting for years with fuel in it. Putting injector/carb cleaner in the fuel tank may help, but if not, the jet needs to be soaked some more -- or replaced.
Follow mixing proportions on the label for injector cleaner.
Could be any of several problems. Since you indicate you just bought it, I'd suggest you return it. Troy-Bilt is pretty good at making customers happy and should repair or replace it right away.
did it run out of gas when you added gas it could be that the fuel line has plugged up with something from the bottom of the tank take the fuel line off and try blowing threw it and take a air hose and blow out the carb and carb cleaner
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? 7:20 www.youtube.com/watch?v=Luj6qPuxIPM Mar 10, 2013 - Uploaded by FastestIntegra
How to clean and fix a leaking gas tank. ... i repair rusted gas tanks with fiberglass putty, works really well, i have a car that i fixed 7 years ago ...
In order to answer specificly we need Make/Model/Year/Engine Model/Deck Size.
I was mowing along on my LA145, which had about 200 hours on it, and it slowed down then died. Before it died, it was acting like it was losing power. It felt like it was only firing on one cylinder. I waited a bit and it restarted after a lot of cranking. I made a couple mowing passes, and then the same thing happened.
Because I have mowed commercially for many years, I know my equipment inside and out. This mower was in top running condition and should not have been acting this way. There were no engine misses, no backfires and it was not normally hard to start. I knew the carburetor was clean, the coils were good, and the plugs were new. The fuel filter was recently changed. I got off, lifted the hood and gave a general inspection of the engine compartment. I noticed the fuel filter was nearly empty. I pulled the hose off the tank side of the filter and saw there was no flow.
The gas should gravity flow from the tank to the filter, if the tank has a good supply of fuel. Not that I recommend this practice, but I have no problem with doing it myself....I wiped the hose off and blew air back into the fuel tank. It helps to take the gas tank lid off first. After I got a good flow of air going back into the tank (it required several lungs full of air, you can hear the bubbles) the fuel began to gravity flow back through the hose at a decent clip. This fixed the problem. There is likely silt build up in the tank and it settles at the output port blocking the flow of fuel.
The problem repeated itself several times last summer. Back at the shop, I used compressed air to blow the line clear. The problem has not shown up in quite some time.
Turn off propane. Disconnect propane tank from barbecue. Open burner valves for about 20 seconds. Close valves. Reattach propane tank. Slowly open propane tank valve. Turn on burner and ignite
Usually, a rapid or immediate loss of power is indicative of a major component failure on an engine...and its something you should consider. Some tell tale signs, smoke out of the exhaust (note the color); or severe noises like loud banging and knocking- time for a major engine repair / over-haul.
On the other hand, perhaps what is happening is just coincidental to some other problem that was already in the making and was exacerbated when you snapped open the throttle.
Check the gas flow from the tank through the delivery system and filter- check the fuel shut-off valve, make sure it's fully open and that it is free of any clogs which would prevent the full flow of gas to the carburetor. Check the carburetor, see if the float bowl is full of gas; if necessary, check for a faulty fuel pump.
Another remote possibility is stale gas- was the bike sitting in storage for a while or did you use gas from a can that was lying around in storage...especially if it is of an ethanol blend that absorbs moisture.
Check the electrical system for ground shorts, spark plug cables for any deterioration and intermittent spark, check the CDI for either a weak, no-spark or verify a strong spark; and so-forth.
If everything is so far okay, inspect the engine oil; it should look smooth, glossy, and somewhat transparent. and run some compression tests.
Hi, Check that fuel valve, pull out that output fuel hose, turn the valve to "reserve", if fuel flows, that means it works( fuel valve ), if no fuel flows, that valve has STUCK valve flow.
Try draining the float bowl on the carburetor so that fresh fuel will flow in. Also, spray carburetor cleaner into the jets to remove any varnish from them. Add some fuel system cleaner to the tank so that when running, the cleaner will improve carburetor function. Hope this avoids a complete carburetor tear-down and clean!
Drain your tank and take off the fuel tank petcock. Look to see if the fuel filter is still intact/there. If it is damaged or missing replace it. The problem is rust in your tank. It causes the needle to stick open. You can turn your gas off and run your carburetor dry while riding to wash the rust past the needle to stop it from dripping while you ride. But the problem will persist until you fix the filter or add an additional inline filter to kill the problem at the source. I was having this problem 15 years ago with my CX500. To help stop tank rust always store your motorcycle with a full tank of stabilized fuel or for long storage (years)drain and coat the inside with storage oil.
Your throttle cable is likely to be rusted. It can be saved with a liberal spray of WD-40 into the cable shroud and left to run down the cable inner. You have to remove this cable and hang up from one end.
Fuel residue is likely to interfere with the smooth operation of the carburettors. Remove the fuel line from tank, and remove drain plugs from carby's. Spray continously some Carburetor Cleaner (avail. all auto accessory stores) down the fuel hose till it comes out the base of carby's. Allow to evaporate and repeat. A full tank cleaning fluid is also available from most auto shops. Thoroughly check all rubber components, wheels and brakes before getting back on the road. Cheers
is it an overflow from the carb? gas will only be in one of 2 tubes and they are the fuel line from the tank and the carb over flow. unless you have an electronic fuel pump then tubes go from tank to pump to carb. if its coming from the overflow then you are getting too much fuel into the carb float chamber. you may have a sticky float. thy getting some Berrymans B12 fuel additive and putting double the doseage in the tank. run engine til hot then leave it to stand overnight. this should break down any gum/varnish that has built up in the system
Most modern gas regulators have a safety feature to prevent gas left on. If you shut off the tank first and then turn off the burners, it will trigger and keep the gas flow at a very reduce flow to prevent you from turning on the tank again with the burners left on and not realizing it.
Turn everything off and then turn on tank first, followed by the burners and this will solve most problems of a low flame or a bbq that won't get hot.
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