Initially, the product stopped responding to the input signal altogether and emitted the loud buzzing sound caused by bad capacitor(s). After changing the two biggest capacitors (I could not identify any obviously blown capacitors), the system "gurgles" the input signal for the first 20 or so seconds of use. The sound seems like a combination of the buzzing and what the sound would be like if it were emitted by a broken cone. After the 15 seconds is up, the sound straightens itself out and is completely normal until the product has been without power for a period of time. My question is will my subwoofer fail in the near future and why? Based on http://www.coilgun.info/theorycapacitors/capacitors2.htm it seems like IF I've got more problem components connected in series, then the remaining functioning parts take on the stress of the broken ones and potentially die sooner. This article is what sparked my concern. Thanks!
SOURCE: Loud buzzing from Kef PSW1000 Subwoofer
yes. A good idea. Kill power to the sub, then unplug and remove everything from the sub. go ahead and plug it in again and check for buzzzz.
That is test one. if you have buzz still, its the sub assembly. bad luck, but not impossible. If the buzz is gone its one of the signals to the sub. They can produce a buzzz without any signal coming from your stereo equipment. Replace the feed line, enjoy! BTW...Kef sure does sound clean. good choice.
SOURCE: I have a Kef PSW 2500 that emits a loud buzz when
Have just repaired a similar problem with a KEF 2500 - relay was chattering at 50 Hz rate, buzz in speaker output.
Problem was caused by overheated / dried out Electrolytic filter cap (C52 - 47uF 63V) on the relay coil supply feed.
The overheating is caused by adjacent power supply dropping resistors which run very hot due poor design of power supply.
A service manual for a similar model is available at following link, refer to power supply section:-
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/35375/kef_psw2000.html
To replace,
1) remove chassis from speaker cabinet (8 screws), disconnect red/black speaker wires from main PCB spade connectors.
2) Remove 4 screws attaching main pcb heatsink assembly from face panel - lift assembly from faceplate (a bit messy , much heartsink compound between mounting faces)
3) unplug the AC 3 pin connections adjacent to the large capacitors and the 3pin connector on end of pcb (near C52), then roll assembly over the top of the audio sub-board to access underside of pcb.
4) solder connections to C52 is accessible at edge of board without further dis-assembly.
Take extreme care replacing C52, as the circuit board is of poor quality, (usual domestic electronics quality) being single sided copper without plated through holes.
The board is already heat damaged by heat buildup from power supply resistors, so the track will most likely lift and crack when disturbed- to counter this problem link the +ve capacitor pigtail to an adjacent solder pad on the same track.
Assembly is reverse of above, take care to preserve/ensure minimum disturbance of heatsink compound.
SOURCE: KEF PSW2150 buzzing or clipping
Im having the same problem, did you find a solution to the constant buzzing? Please email me at [email protected], Thank You
SOURCE: One of my Q 75's is just not performing
I have to disagree with the first response. Having the speakers out of phase will show up as decreased volume primarily in the lower frequencies and from BOTH speakers. In other words, the system will sound like there is little base or too much treble.
Internal problems with the crossover or a mechanical problem with the actual speaker drivers themselves can cause this. If you can gain access to the drivers themselves, try swapping one at a time to see if the problem moves.
Keep us posted,
Dan
Please
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