Used a volt meter disonnected neg battery cable pulled each fuse under the hood and only one made a difference it was a 15 amp fuse. it was next to a 25 amp then 2 15 amps then a 25 amp all in the first row
A voltmeter is NOT the correct tool to check for an "ignition-off draw". A voltmeter will show 12 volts if ANYTHING is operating.
There are some things that are SUPPOSED to keep operating when the vehicle is shut off. These include, but are not limited to:
> Powertrain Control Module keep-alive memory
> Radio preset memory
> Clock
> Security/ alarm system
> Remote control recievers (door locks, etc.)
What you need to know is how many AMPS are being drawn from the battery when the vehicle is shut off. This is done by using a shunt bar connected between the battery terminal and the battery cable connector.
Set the ammeter to the lowest setting (usually 2 or 5 amp scale) Connect the ammeter leads accross the shunt bar. Turn off all electrical accessories, ignition switch, etc. and wait for a minimum of 45 minutes for all of the computer systems to go into "sleep" mode. Then open the shunt bar and read the amperage.
The "rule of thumb" is 300 milliamps (or 0.3 amps). This is where you have a problem. Anything less than this is not a problem and is not the cause of your dead battery. My experience is that most vehicles built in the last 15 years or so, will usually measure around 150 milliamps if there is no aftermarket equipment installed. Please note that even this 150 milliamps will measure as 12 volts if measured with a volt meter. A 2 amp draw will also measure as 12 volts....However, a 2 amp draw will kill your battery overnight and the 150 milliamp draw won't.
SOURCE: 97 dodge dakoata main fuse keeps blowing 140 amp fuse
Regulator in alternator obviously faulty, have it bench tested & fixed or replace alternator, and cure your problem.
SOURCE: blows fuses
SOUNDS LIKE THE ALARM HORN IS SHORTED, CAUSING FUSE TO BLOW.
TRY UNPLUGGING ALARM HORN & SEE IF FUSE STILL BLOWS.
IF IT DOES NOT BLOW, REPLACE ALARM HORN.
SOURCE: On 1973 Ford LTD the battery runs down while
dear friend-the voltage that you are measuring is battery voltage and as soon as you try to start the vehicle it will drop to 9 volt which is not enought to start.if you remove the pos,battery clamp and put a test light between the pole and the terminal and and the light lites up then there is a draw running the battery flat.
SOURCE: battery won't stay charged
You say your test light was hooked from the negative terminal of the battery to the chassis? This is correct?
If so you don't have a short you have an open circuit.
You will have a bad ground somewhere between the battery and the engine or between the the engine and the body. Trace your grounds.
If you need more help leave a messege in "add comments" and I will help you along.
KL
SOURCE: power drain new battery,alternater
if the battery is being drained there is something causing it to happen, check that all the lights are off glove box, trunk, you may have to get someone to get in the trunk & close it to see if the light goes out, when it is dark lift the hood & move the wiring everywhere you can to see if there are any sparks that might indicate a bare wire touching something.....hope this helps......cheers.
The best test for this is.... Well
before starting this test make sure your doors are closed and
everything is off. Then ...Take (disconnect) one end of the battery
cable, the Positive or negative it don't mater witch one. Put a 12
volt test light between the two disconnected (cable and battery
end)...now if the light is lit, then you have a voltage drain
somewhere...to find out were it is you will have too start to remove
your fuses one at a time until your test light goes off...for
example: if you pulled your cigaret lighter fuse and the light went
off then you know there is a problem with that circuit...ect......
This sounds a little confusing but it is fairly easy..i sure hope this helps you out..Good Luck
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