1999 Jeep Cherokee Logo
Posted on May 22, 2012
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New battery went dead. pulled the fuses and checked for a short. Found the fuse that shows a short just don't know what it goes too

Used a volt meter disonnected neg battery cable pulled each fuse under the hood and only one made a difference it was a 15 amp fuse. it was next to a 25 amp then 2 15 amps then a 25 amp all in the first row

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  • Master 4,803 Answers
  • Posted on May 23, 2012
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A voltmeter is NOT the correct tool to check for an "ignition-off draw". A voltmeter will show 12 volts if ANYTHING is operating.

There are some things that are SUPPOSED to keep operating when the vehicle is shut off. These include, but are not limited to:
> Powertrain Control Module keep-alive memory
> Radio preset memory
> Clock
> Security/ alarm system
> Remote control recievers (door locks, etc.)

What you need to know is how many AMPS are being drawn from the battery when the vehicle is shut off. This is done by using a shunt bar connected between the battery terminal and the battery cable connector.

Set the ammeter to the lowest setting (usually 2 or 5 amp scale) Connect the ammeter leads accross the shunt bar. Turn off all electrical accessories, ignition switch, etc. and wait for a minimum of 45 minutes for all of the computer systems to go into "sleep" mode. Then open the shunt bar and read the amperage.

The "rule of thumb" is 300 milliamps (or 0.3 amps). This is where you have a problem. Anything less than this is not a problem and is not the cause of your dead battery. My experience is that most vehicles built in the last 15 years or so, will usually measure around 150 milliamps if there is no aftermarket equipment installed. Please note that even this 150 milliamps will measure as 12 volts if measured with a volt meter. A 2 amp draw will also measure as 12 volts....However, a 2 amp draw will kill your battery overnight and the 150 milliamp draw won't.

5 Related Answers

motor1258

Mike Butler

  • 6674 Answers
  • Posted on May 19, 2009

SOURCE: 97 dodge dakoata main fuse keeps blowing 140 amp fuse

Regulator in alternator obviously faulty, have it bench tested & fixed or replace alternator, and cure your problem.

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 22, 2009

SOURCE: blows fuses

SOUNDS LIKE THE ALARM HORN IS SHORTED, CAUSING FUSE TO BLOW.
TRY UNPLUGGING ALARM HORN & SEE IF FUSE STILL BLOWS.
IF IT DOES NOT BLOW, REPLACE ALARM HORN.

Anonymous

  • 382 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 09, 2009

SOURCE: On 1973 Ford LTD the battery runs down while

dear friend-the voltage that you are measuring is battery voltage and as soon as you try to start the vehicle it will drop to 9 volt which is not enought to start.if you remove the pos,battery clamp and put a test light between the pole and the terminal and and the light lites up then there is a draw running the battery flat.

Anonymous

  • 1168 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 18, 2009

SOURCE: battery won't stay charged

You say your test light was hooked from the negative terminal of the battery to the chassis? This is correct?
If so you don't have a short you have an open circuit.
You will have a bad ground somewhere between the battery and the engine or between the the engine and the body. Trace your grounds.
If you need more help leave a messege in "add comments" and I will help you along.

KL

Anonymous

  • 977 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 05, 2011

SOURCE: power drain new battery,alternater

if the battery is being drained there is something causing it to happen, check that all the lights are off glove box, trunk, you may have to get someone to get in the trunk & close it to see if the light goes out, when it is dark lift the hood & move the wiring everywhere you can to see if there are any sparks that might indicate a bare wire touching something.....hope this helps......cheers.

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Something is draining my battery, there was a short in the headlight switch... i replaced it now my rear parking lights arent coming on i dont know where to start checking the wires..the fuses are fin

The most methodical way to check for wiring shorts is to start at the fuse box. With the ignition turned off, and the key out of the ignition switch, most circuits should be dead. So, using a volt meter or perhaps even an ammeter, pull out each fuse and test whether current is flowing over the circuit. Expect to see current flowing over the fuse that powers your clock and any receiver for keyless entry / remote locking remotes. You might also see current for one or two other systems that are still on "standby" when the car is powered off. However, you shouldn't see current flowing for circuits that could be on but aren't--think dome lights that turn on when a door is opened, or a cigarette lighter outlet that is still active if you plug something into it.
Checking the fuses in this way will show you the system that's got an unexpected drain. I know you suspect something involving the headlight switch, but you might have shorted an unrelated system when you were installing the switch. That's very hard to tell from a physical inspection.
Once you have identified a circuit with unexpected current drain, check your owner's manual or maybe even in the inside of the fuse box cover to see which systems that fuse covers. Unplugging one component at at a time (i.e., radio and 12v outlet are often on the same fuse; dome light is often on the same fuse with other components, etc.), check to see whether the current drain is the same or different. Eventually, you will identify the component that is causing the problem.
At this point, I would suggest charging your battery, disabling your suspected component if you can, and letting things rest a day. Did this fix the battery drain? If so, you're definitely on the right track. If not, you may have found a lesser problem you didn't even know you had.
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How to find electrical short if not started in about 2 days battery is drand dead. replaced battery with new one.

The best test for this is.... Well before starting this test make sure your doors are closed and everything is off. Then ...Take (disconnect) one end of the battery cable, the Positive or negative it don't mater witch one. Put a 12 volt test light between the two disconnected (cable and battery end)...now if the light is lit, then you have a voltage drain somewhere...to find out were it is you will have too start to remove your fuses one at a time until your test light goes off...for example: if you pulled your cigaret lighter fuse and the light went off then you know there is a problem with that circuit...ect......

This sounds a little confusing but it is fairly easy..i sure hope this helps you out..Good Luck

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I towed my car on a car carrier across country 6 mos ago. After loading the car and starting out the alarm went off. I shut it off using the key and no further problems. Shortly after arriving at my...

Disconnect the positive lead of the battery and hook a simple test light from that lead to the positive post of the battery. The light will come one for a second and go out. If it stays on you can start looking for the short by one by one pulling fuses going to circuits that don't need the keys to work. The frist thing befiore starting this test is to unplug the hood light if you have one. If the courtesy light isn't the problem, pull that fuse and you can do the rest of the testing with the doros open. Good luck.
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I have a 2001 Kia rio , I just got a brand new alternator and battery, however now my car only starts when I jump start it and will run fine for about 5 minutes then the lights start to fade and then he...

It is possible that if your old alternator was shorted out, it could have caused the main fuse to blow. The fuse is located in the engine compartment fuse box. It is an 80 Amp fuse and sits off to the right - all by itself. (See picture)

NOTE: There is also a chance that there is something else wrong that may have caused this fuse to blow. If it blows again upon replacing it, you need to inspect the wire that runs between this fuse and the alternator - it may be shorted to ground. If this is the case, you probably did not need to replace your alternator.


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codywilly74, Yes, the wiper could be drawing the power from the battery. What you can try is to remove the fuse that controls the rear wiper motor and see if that helps to alliviate the drain. However, check your owners manual to see what else is on that circuit as you may lose some other things by taking the fuse out. If this helps, then have the rear motor replaced and replace the fuse. You might also check the alternator to see if it is putting out the proper voltage, even with amp guage reading fine, Also, charge up your battery and have it load tested. Good luck with this.
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The battery went dead when I tryed to start in cold weather,I removed the battery and charged it back up, However when I put the battery back in the car started and ran for about five minutes when it shut...

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Have you checked the charging of the alternator at the battery? (not by a parts store) Put a volt meter across the battery and check voltage while running. You should be showing 13.5v or better (not over 14) with accessories off, 12.5 or better with everything on including high beams. If you don't, chances are you may have a regulator problem. I don't know how you are checking draw, but you should be using an ammeter placed between either battery terminal and cable (cable removed from battery) Unplug each fuse and watch for a substantial drop in draw. That system will be the one with the problem...then, unplug each component served by that fuse (with fuse replaced) till the draw again drops. That will be the component that is pulling your battery down. You did check the simple stuff like sun visor lights and glove box light?
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Battery is going dead from an apparent short. how so I find a short curcuit

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