New pump motor smoking 1 minute into running

IS Australia, (USA answers me)
and now we know 3.6 L Alloytec (LY7) V6 engine, by GM. (chain drive.DOHC cams)
2004 first one.
you say spark is good but to all 6 cylinders or just 1.?

that is normal, for PUMP,
key on may run pump for 1 to 3 seconds, called PRIME,cranked pump runs full time cranked by designand engine running pump runs full time so all that is normalsome pumps are silent running and BOSCH makes those and brags about it. yeah nice so a tech uses 2 tools ! always
a voltmeter at pump 11v min, (wires drop 1v) as does starter load.
and a fuel pressure gauge. or it's all just a guessing game.
now rule #1 ALL PCM cut fuel 1 or 2 ways if spark or its precursors are detected as FAIL (by law and to end crash and burn seen on TV)
3 ways top fail cmp,ckp or coil packs dead , make spark dead. and more lots more. even spark wires old.for sure those carbon core junk.
so spark is first NEVER FUEL FIRST.
I test all spark HV wires with new test park plug, grounded

also SOME failures fool the PCM in to thinking spark is good and is not.but we all know the PCM is not AI or genius grade yet.
no year car told but is 2004 up. to 2007.
engine size, 3.6L petrol (gasoline) and VVT,
how many miles on the engine, 300k miles or 500Kmeters?
The VVT can file. as can chain guilds.
VVT can fail and case 50degrees of error at cams, cranking , not good that.

Now spark failures, on high mileage engines, there ar 6 COP spark coils to fail
and spark plugs too, over 100kmiles.
the cops have 6 boots that love to age crack and spark cause carbon tracking that shorts out dead the spark plug ,new boots are $15 each 10x cheaper than new coils with boots. (a cost savings Idea)
spark is good only when all 6 are good.
that is all I can say on 2004 car, many have super high mileage.

possible impeller damage --seal /gasket --or motor not turning [rpm] up to speed

Check the fuel system for flow operation and blockage / restriction. It sounds like the primer supplies enough for a couple of minutes then fails. What provides the supply after priming? Mechanical pump or electric? Check the manual.

• No, not your computer, you have continuity so the ECU is sending the signal. Have you checked your fuel pressure from the rail yet? Should be around 45-50 PSI when engine running and when key is off should remain almost the same. I suspect this is a fuel pressure issue, Have you tried replacing your fuel filter yet? It's a cheap and easy fix and should be changed every 15,000 miles or so. The fuel filter also has a back pressure valve inside of it, just like the fuel pump. Could also be the fuel pressure regulator. This is checked with a little hand held vacuum and you look in a little mirror, held under the fuel pressure regulator, and you look for the diagram to bulge out. This has to be done very carefully of you can ruin a good one.

• Hope this helps.

Regards, Tony

A humming noise is fairly normal if the pump is running and pumping correctly. I am guessing this is not the case. Usually it is just a stuck impeller that is the culprit. Power down the unit and open the pump housing to access the impeller. Then gently turn the impeller feeling for resistance (some resistance is normal from the magnets of the motor). If everything seems ok close and secure the pump housing. Try powering the unit on and see if it starts up correctly. If it is still having issues manually prime the pump. If the pump runs correctly for a few minutes after manually priming but slows or stops you have a leaky seal or fitting to find. Finding the seal is not hard but will take a little time and patience. With your garden hose, very carefully run water over each joint and fitting with the pump running. It will take a minute or so of water running over a leaky seal for the pump to prime so take your time. Make sure not to get water on the motor as it can deliver a very nasty shock and destroy the motor. If none of this gets you up and running the cause may be the motor is bad and needs replacing.

Yes, it can be fixed.Assuming that your water system is pressurized, take the following steps;
1. Shut the power off the lines going to the pump
motor.
2. Drain all the water inside the pressure tank by
opening the drain plug. After emptying the tank,
replace the drain plug.
3. Unscrew the priming port plug and fill it full with
water. And at the same time fully close the
flow control valve.
4. Put the power back on, and slowly open the
flow control valve until the water flow stabilize at
20 or 30 psi at the pressure gage. This could be
at 1/4 open or 1/3 open, depending on the water
supply at the suction point.
5. Check and set the pressure switch to be off
at 40 psi.
This will solve your problem.

Check The Fuel Filter And Your Fuel Pump Its The Problem %99 Of The Time.
Sincerely,
Michael Scott

Check valve might be bad.

I am sorry to say this, but the compression for that type of engine should be atleast 120 psi. Remove the muffler and look at the cylinder, it is scarred beyond repair.