Tv has horz distortion lines while a green horz line rolls up then down turn off tv and back on and tv works ok?

This tv is a standard CRT(tube tv) wright?Yes,than the tv video board have problem with dying capacitors or the main colors decoders IC require resoldering.U have a soldering iron,a desoldering pump or a roll of desoldering braids,a roll of solders and also understanding basic electronic wright?Take the tv aparts check all those capactors all around the main colors decoders IC for capacitors leakages,replaced all these dying leakages capacitors,will solved this problems.These capacitors alway bulges up or puffing up on it top.That the indication those capacitors are dying and not working to it full capacity.Also resolders the colors decoders IC too.Ur tv problems,will be solved.

First: the blinking green light means the set has a DM unit in it. It should when unplugged and plugged back in blink for 70 seconds and then go out.

One of two things is wrong here:

1) The DM unit (large metal box on the left as you look from the back) has several capacitors and fuses that can fail.

2) Try this: Pull front speaker grill off: held on with plastic pegs.

Remove the inspection plate you will find in back of it.

Note the two groups of wires that come from the front keyboard; follow them down and to the right and unplug the two plugs you find; most have two and they are different sizes and marked so you cannot get them wrong.

The idea here is to disconnect the entire front keyboard and the reset switch from the set.

You can still turn the set on with the remote.

If the set now works--you have two choices----use the set with a remote and the keyboard not connected.

Remove the entire screen assembly and remove and or replace the reset switch.

IF DISCONNECTING THE KEY BOARD DOES NOT CURE IT--the Dm unit is bad---either change the four caps--lots of sites sell kits for this OR send the entire DM unit out for repair/rebuild to someone like PTS ELECTRONICS.

THE BLINKING GREEN LIGHT IS THE DM UNIT TRYING TO BOOT UP--LIKE A COMPUTER.

iF THIS INFORMATION TOLD YOU SOMETHING YOU DID NOT KNOW, rate this solution as very helpful as I do this here for free.

make a comment here if you need additional help---I am here to help.

REGARDS, SD TECH

hi friend,
Repairing It Yourself
If you decide to repair the TV yourself, I recommend that you obtain a copy of the repair manual for your Mitsubishi TV from the Techlore website by going to Mitsubishi Service Manual. It will provide some direction, however it is technically written and may be difficult for the NOVICE to understand. If you are unable to locate the the service manual for your specific Model at the above Techlore link, you may need to purchase the service manual online at ServiceManuals.net.
If you decide to have a service technician do the repair, insist that the "DM" module is removed from the TV and ONLY the four 1000uF, 16V Capacitors (Caps) located on the DM Module are replaced. MOST techincians will INSIST on replacing the entire DM Module and not simply the capacitors. The cost is about $200 for a technician to replace the capacitors and $1000 for replacement of the DM Module. As you will read below, doing the repair yourself will cost less than $4.00 for the 4 Caps.
A Few "Cautions"

1. Keep yourself "grounded" when working with the circuit board. Static electricity will destroy electronic components.
   
2. When replacing the Capacitors, press them "down" onto the circuit board as far as they will go, hold them down, solder into place and clip the excess terminal lengths flush with solder. Only by doing this will the metal shield (little silver box) slide down and over the circuit board during re-assembly. There is not a lot of clearance when doing this, as the 105C Capacitors are slightly longer that the originals. With minimal effort everything does fit back together.
   
3. Use ONLY 105º C capacitors with a voltage rating of 35 V.
   
4. Re-insert the DM circuit board into the Mother board; press virmly and ensure a proper seat of the DM board. Next, slide the metal case down and over the DM circuit board. Refer to my "Lesson Learned."

Basic Troubleshooting

1. Press the "reset" button and hold for 10 seconds .... Does TV turn on and blinking green light turn to solid green.
   
2. Unplug the TV from it's power source for various times, ranging between 5 minutes and 24 hours..... Does blinking green light continue upon plugging in the TV.
   
3. Disconnect ALL devices from the TV; DVD, Tuner, Cable Box, unplug the TV for various duration times .... Does blinking green light continues upon plugging in the TV.
   
4. Press Power and Menu buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
   
5. Press Power and Display buttons simultaneously and hold depressed for 20 seconds .... Does blinking green light continue to flash.
   
6. Insure that no front panel buttons are inadvertently stuck in an "engaged" position.

Diagnosis: If none of the above test resolve the issue, then the failure lies in one of the following:

1. DM Module Capacitors have FAILED.
2. DM Module is defective.
3. EEPROM Board failure
4. Power Supply failure.

hope this helps u
please rate me.....................
thank u for using fixya
regards
sivaranjini

Nonstop blinking is likely a DM or format board - format board most likely. I have rebuilt several of these by simply replacing all the caps, about 70 of them, and takes about two hours start to finish... But this set does need to boot. It takes about 70 seconds of flashing green light before you're able to press the power button - even when everthing is working as it should..
Hope this helps!

Bill

William Rayburn, CET
Premium Technologies
PO Box 442
Long Beach, WA. 98631
360-642-4993

sound like a DM or FMT board failure. this is not the 4 cap blinking green light problem. check out
www.tv-techs.com

yes they provide a free service manual with their kits. the symptom of the blue screen could either be the signal or the FMT as they can both cause those symptoms, My professional guess would be the signal board as the FMT will cause distortion lines across the screen with no picture.

Check C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4 (1000 uFD, 16V, 105C) on the DM PCB.
Check C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27 (1000 uFD, 16V, 105C) on the FMT PCB.
If any are bad, replace all of them with part # 181P734030 (680 uFD, 16V, 105C).

convergence ic bad, should also replace bad caps in DM
http://home.earthlink.net/~oleg.filippov/ConvergenceFix.htm
http://cmpalmer.blogspot.com/2006/11/fixing-my-own-tv-part-ii.html
caps:
· http://www.chrisandnat.com/Projects/BlinkingTV/blink.htm
· http://www.jeremyburns.com/Mitsubishi-Green-Blinking-Light-Fix.pdf
· http://www.fixya.com/howto/h159332-mitsubishi_dm_board_repair
· http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=32186
replace DM

know problem of bad caps.

http://www.chrisandnat.com/Projects/BlinkingTV/blink.htm
http://www.jeremyburns.com/Mitsubishi-Green-Blinking-Light-Fix.pdf
http://www.fixya.com/howto/h159332-mitsubishi_dm_board_repair
http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=32186
replace DM

Picture of bad caps
http://www.auctioncreations.com/wd62525a.JPG

The DM board is the one with the digital connectors on the back panel. If you already have it appart, you may as well check the caps on all of the boards. The caps that go bad are typically Jamicon brand caps in 1000 uF and 330 uF values. There are also a couple of 3300 uF caps in the PS that cause problems.

The WD62825 has a Digital Module located on the left side of the chassis looking at it from the rear of the set. It's housed in a metal box that can slide out of its holder after removing the trim screws.
The module has its own power supply board and there are a group of 16v/1000uf caps on that board which commonly fail causing the constant flashing standby light. Further back on the module is a small board about the size of a matchbook called the E2P module. Its SMT (Surface Mount Technology) caps also commonly fail which can cause the same symptoms. Techs can tell whether the E2P has failed by simply removing it, hooking the DM back up and trying to power the set. If it powers on the picture won't be much good - but at least you can tell what's keeping it down...
Back to the caps on the pwr board. If they've failed they usually will buldge visibly on top. And ESR is almost not necessary. In any event that's the nuts and bolts on this model.
Is it a job for a layman? Yes and no - you might strongly consider a tech if you don't feel comfortable removing all the connections that the DM has with the signal board. There are about six - multi-pin - wired connections to unplug and then sliding the DM out of the unit and carefully removing the screws and latching to take the DM top cover off...
Hope this helps.
Bill