No gas getting to heads on engine. Have replaced the fuel pump with three separate ones, had the carburetor ultra-sonic cleaned, I replaced the plastic needle valve with a brass valve because the plastic, per John Deere, was known to swell during heat and cut off the gas. I can take the carb off and spray starting fluid, drip gas straight into, etc. the head ports and it will stay running. When I pull the fuel line exiting the fuel pump there is a trickle of gas but it isn't a strong shooting stream, but this is with all three fuel pumps that I have tried. Like I said, the carb has been cleaned. The hoses have been checked for internal swelling and restriction due to ethanol enriched gasoline. What gives? It will run for about 5 seconds and die...unless you spray starting fluid or drip gas into the intakes. It's a 23 hp Briggs and Stratton motor on a John Deere Z425 54" EzTrack. I'm at the end of my rope with this engine!!!
Your carb shut down / anti back fire solenoid valve isn't opening allowing fuel to flow through the main jet... (this has nothing to do with your carb float neddle). A lot of people cut the plunger off of the shut down solenoid valve and have no run issues. To keep it from back firing on shut down, allow engine to idle for 5 to 10 seconds before turning the key off.
Time to pull the hose off the fuel pump coming from the tank and drain the tank and check flow of gas coming from tank hose, and possibly inline fuel filter is plugged or there is junk in your tank/line from tank not letting enough fuel to run to pump so pump can pump it to carb !
Good day, I have had this fuel issue intermittently since my eztrak was new. I currently have 385hrs on my mower. The dealership told me it was bad gas(lazy answer). I run 90+ octane. I have done the carb rebuild 4 times with this unit, cut the plunger off of the fuel solenoid and replaced the solenoid. I have replaced the fuel pump. On my last carb rebuild I tested the fuel solenoid with the bowl off of the carb. The solenoid would retract with the ignition switch in the run position but on continuing to the start position the plunger extended. This would shut the gas flow to the pickup tube/jets off. This was a very repeatable issue. I replaced the ignition switch and have not had issue with it after. Please don't cut the plunger off of the fuel solenoid. If the needle gets debris under it the crankcase can fill with fuel. I hope this helps someone with this problem
SOURCE: 6.75 B and S push mower wont start.
Check the kill switch. It may be stuck in the off position.
SOURCE: 7 hp craftsman Briggs/stratton lawmnower stalls
Your engine model # 128602 Type 0212-E1. Forget about ordering from Sears and paying shipping and waiting a week. Go to your local Briggs and Stratton dealer (most shops are) and buy part # 694395. Should cost about $3.00
SOURCE: lawnmower starts but won't continue to run
if you are getting no fuel to the plug you either have a stuck float, plugged fuel line or filter. does the gas reach the carb bowl? does the mower have a fuel pump? if so the diaphram might be bad.
SOURCE: 4.5 hp Briggs& Stratton push mower will not run
You need to rebuild your carb. The diaphram in the carb has gotten hard and is no longer acting as a fuel pump to pump the fuel to the carb. Get a rebuild kit and a compressor (for compressed air) to blow out the jet passages. It is an medium to easy job, just watch the small parts. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hint: Before you remove your fuel/air jets, bottom them out first and count the number of turns it takes to bottom them out and mark it down for each fuel/air jet. When you go to reinstall the fuel/air jets bottom them out and then back them back out to the number of turns before removal. That way the fuel/air jets are set to the right number of turns when it was running right. Good Luck, I hope this helped Please rate me...Thanks
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