Oven temperature control intermittent

Hello Ally;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

You may not have a problem. Normally your oven will rise about 40 degrees F. above the set temperature and then shut down, until the oven temperature falls 40 degrees F. below the set temperature, then the oven turns back on.

Your oven temperature is controlled by you oven thermocouple.

You also have a high temperature limit switch, which turns the fan on when you go too far above the set temperature to vent the oven. This may be bad.

sounds like your probe connection may be shorted. Can you inspect the probe itself, and perhaps do a test for continuity with an ohm meter? Also, you might be able to disable the probe in the menu settings, and run it on manual, just for a test.

Do you still have the user's manual for this unit?

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

Sounds like either an intermittent temperature sensor or its wiring, OR a problem with the electronic control.
We repair a lot of controllers with this sort of symptom.

Best Regards,
Bruce
www.fixyourboard.com

Sounds like the oven element is cracked and absorbing moisture when the oven cools down thus causing it to trip. Should buy a new element. there are hundreds of suppliers on the internet.

HI thanks for the question. its a common problem with the clocks. first it goes a little dimmer. then a little more till it goes so dim you cant even see the temperature that you have in the oven. the clock has to be replaced. or. buy a cheap oven thermometer. and hang on the middle rack, and adjust the temp setting to match the oven temp . save a lot of money this way. thanks. please rate my answer. thanks

I have just purchased a new thermostat and installed it. The oven now works fine and the heat light cut in and out showing temperature is being controlled.

I had the same problem. The entire control panel had to be replaced. That included the display, keypad and all the hardware behind it.. it's one integrated unit. Luckily I had the extended warranty, otherwise it would have cost close to $400.

Sounds like the wrong module got installed or is defective. Dangerous situation. Call or take it back to whoever installed it. If you did yourself, pull the control module and return it to the shop you bought it from for a new one or make sure you have the correct module by checking the part number on the module itself. Better yet call Viking directly. Here's customer support info: Customer Support If you own a Viking product and have questions or require assistance with product repairs if you wish to speak to a customer service representative please call us at 1-888-VIKING1 (1-888-845-4641), then press 1.

Replace controller board