Could be,first try unplugging unit from power for 15 minutes then re-powwer unit and see if this cleared the main board as sometimes these boards "glitch" as a computer sometimes does
Hi Karen:
sorry about the delay in responding,the number you gave crosses over to a 20 inch SxS General Electric refrigerator (operated on 230 volts A.C. in the UK) is this correct? if so there is no electronic damper door,it is a thermocouple/hydraulically controlled type damper door,if you can see the doors components there will be a coil of tubing on the unit,as this coil is affected by temperature setting it moves fluid inside this tube to open or close the damper door,if you can see this coil try heating or cooling it and see if the door responds,if not its bad,no fix to this component,just replace it (G.E. part# is WR9X568) hope this helps.......Danny
Karen,is this a 20 inch side by side refrigerator?,by using your model number this is what it crosses to in the USA,there are numerous appliance parts purveyors over here you can E mail to find this part,or you may want to contact them by phone as I have no way to physically see the part,just a drawing of it
×
SOURCE: Freezer works; fridge side doesn't
First thing to check is look and see if there is thick frost build up on the back lower panel inside the freezer? If not there must be a problem in the damper (vent). Let me know what you find so I can help.
SOURCE: Maytag MSD2651HES fridge not cooling freezer works find
Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if
there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not
defrosting as it should.
If you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice
melt in the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if
is cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above
items.
SOURCE: refrigerator not cooling
see if the compressor motor is running
The
compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's
on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it
is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still
not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of
several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified
appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
SOURCE: Freezer side cold, frige side warm
Defrost heater is open behind back wall. order new heater #wr55x10101 remove 4 screws 2 bottom, 2 top behind light shield, defrost freezer so ice is off of evap, replace heater with new one.
Your baffle that controls the freezer temperature is possibly broken. If you take the cover off the dials labeled "refrigerator/freezer" the baffle is a plastic arm that controls the amount of air circulation between the freezer and the refigerator. If the arm is broken is will stay closed completely blocking the air hole or vent. I just wedged a small piece of wood or shim in mine and it hasn't frozen up since.
Good Luck. I know how frustrating it can be to repeatedly defrost the ice build-up.
Mary Lynn, Alabama
404 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Many thanks Danny. I had already unplugged it overnight to test if it was a defrost problem but that hasn't helped.
Someone suggested it could be a lack of gas (requiring a whole new product) but the freezer side is working completely fine so I think I am being misled there? If i force open the air baffler then the fridge gets cold; also when I press the door-switch on the fridge (to fool it into thinking the door is closed) the fan starts and cold air is pumped in through the forced-open air baffle.
But when I leave it alone for a minute or two the baffles close and the fridge doesn't cool (probably stays around 6 or 7 degrees I'd guess).
Help!
Karen,can you please give me a model number off the unit,then I may be able to further assist you.......Thank You.Danny
Of course, the model is MSZ802DF (UK)
The past few days the compressor motor has been running constantly so it could be low on gas too I guess?
Hi Danny,
Thanks for that. The damper on my fridge appears to be controlled by a sealed unit (its blue and has the numbers "M196 0.5A 125/250v..." (it goes on). There is no sign of a coil.
I have wedged a screw into the damper grill to force it open and that's keeping the fridge cool and the motor/compressor has stopped running al the time. So i would guess it is a faulty damper door - just need to find a new one and work out how to fit it...
×