I have a 3 year old Proform CrossWalk 580 Treadmill. Model # 831.24865.2. Recently I started noticing white spots appearing on the belt itself as well as on the sides of the deck. When I take it and rub it with my fingers it appears to be dry-like substance (like dried up deodorant). I called ICON who services ProForm, the technician told me to lube the belt. I looked in the manual and it says it is a pre-lubricated belt and I shouldn't lube it because it will deteriorate the belt and components. So which is it? The front roller is also making a squeaky noise, I took off the motor cover to take a look at the components, checked tension on the motor-to-roller belt and I do not see anything wrong. Please any suggestions?
Dear Sir:
LUBE the deck belt, is lack of maintenance, maybe you have to change the deck belt, this produce enough friction and shut down the machine for to protect the electronic system.
2) lube THE ROLLERS bearing , according with the maintenance schedule.
3) Clean any EXCESS of wax, and LUBE very well.
4) Test the input motor if there voltage the motor need repair.
God bless you
The white powdery spots are sweat drops (salt) . Trust me, I have to clean em off mine all the time. My trainer used to tell me to wipe my treadmill down as soon as I finish my workout to prevent them. Yeahhh right! I'm tired! I'm not cleaning. Lol. No clue about the squeak but I know exactly what the white spots are. They're an indication that you're doing it right. Haha
SOURCE: My new treadmill belt is to tight, motor won't run
i discovered a bolt protruduing about one inch just behind the drive belt from the moto to the roller. The drive belt had gotten over the bolt and that was causing the interfearence.
SOURCE: Proform 765 treadmill slows down when step on. Do
Hi,
More likely time to replace the belt. Let me provide you with all the information you need. This information is already there on many websites.
BELT LOSES POWER
(Bogs Down or is Sluggish)
This condition is when the treadmill operates normally without a
person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on the
belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of time
with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in order of our
experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)
2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you have
adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has
demagnetized. (5% of the time)
4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to take a DC
amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC). Trying
to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better tests, if
you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are a
coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the
Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections
instructions.
The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest incline setting
and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key and it should
take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general rule…some like a few
Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy belt but most this
tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and walk on it at
3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline but bogs
down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity takes over
for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On some heavily
worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently, check for
this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just crank
down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily better. The
tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to keep
everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt (with
the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3”
without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you
don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able to be
turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal operating
position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for slipping
and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs a new set
of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost any
motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not
that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose.
If you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts
aren’t too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem.
DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE
MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS
IF THE MOTOR IS GOOD. The step to test for the motor is to use a
foreign object preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction
of the motor spin (most have directional movement printed on the
motor tag), then apply pressure with an object with downward
pressure on the flywheel in the direction the flywheel is turning (do not
attempt to put force against the rotating direction of the flywheel as
you can easily injure yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically
you need brush replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled. Once
you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core
by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the core
against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets are good.
If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be replaced.
Controller:
This
is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a controller in
this situation will not solve the underlying problem and then you will
end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a control is
dropping output, it will do it with a person on the belt or not. Tests
of DC output dropping is normal in many controls since they have a
current limiter which will automatically drop output to prevent burning
up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating the other possible
problems first. If you are left with the control as the cause, replace
the control.
The site :-
http://www.treadmilldoctor.com/Treadmill-Belt-Bogs-Down
Any further assistance, let me know.
Hope i helped you.
Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
SOURCE: Proform Crosswalk Dual Motion Cross Trainer
I think you are talking about the front roller. It has a rubber sleeve that helps to grip the walking belt. Sometimes you can tighten this enough to keep it from slipping but you run the risk of overtightening and damaging both rollers. We recomend replacing that roller.
SOURCE: Need to replace 15 amp fuse on ProForm Crosswalk
Remove the fuse and take it to any auto parts store where they will match it up for you. Regards, Joe
ps - kindly rate my answer. thank you.
SOURCE: I have a Proform 380 Treadmill. When the treadmill
If the walking belt is off-center, first remove the key and UNPLUG THE POWER CORD. If the walking belt has shifted to the left, use the allen wrench to turn the left rear roller bolt clockwise 1/2 of a turn; if the walking belt has shifted to the right, turn the bolt counterclockwise 1/2 of a turn. Be careful not to overtighten the walking belt. Plug in the power cord, insert the key and run the treadmill for a few minutes. Repeat until the walking belt is centered.
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