Rope tangled around shaft, came off of the spool.

Ok, the spring will more than likely unravel when you remove the pull cord cover/assembly. There is notch in the spool for winding the rope around it. So make sure the spring is wound enough to fit it in the housing. Then take the rope, already knotted and in the spool. Turn the spool in the direction that tightens the spring.Push down on spool and allow spring to retract the rope. (Don't forget to tie the knot in the rope handle before placing on mower). Then lightly clamp in vise or visegrip, or channel lock pliers. I like to use visegrips on one side, and channel locks on the other. Place over the square flywheel nut,release channelock pliers, hold with fingers tightly so the spring does not unravel. Then release visegrips and hold with other free hand, Place over flywheel nut and slide down. Re-attach with screw previously removed. Your done. Don't forget to tie the knot in the rope handle before placing on mower.

remove top starter assy. cut grip from old rope ease rope into spool,
when slack remove center screw and carefully pull out spool, tie knot in rope and thread into spool, wind rope [make sure correct size rope]
around spool until full,carefully turn spool into spring 1 turn then replace screw. put rope into notch on spool and wind up 3-6 turns,
replace grip

You will need a special tool to do that job. It is just a 10/24 long bolt bent to form a crank and a nut spun on it and soldered or double nutted to keep it in place.

Remove the top slotted bolt and replace it with the tool.

Release the pressure on the cross pin by back winding the spring- and remove the cross pin.

The starter gear will slide up the shaft after you remove the flywheel. Or you can loosen the 2 screws on the top bracket.

Now release the tension on the spring and pull the core from the spool.

The spool comes out and the rope must be freed from the guide.

The reverse is about the same- feed the cord and spool it up attach the handle.

Replace the top bracket if you removed it. Put on the starter gear

grease the spring with light grease inspect the nylon base and coil anchor (tiny brass cinch squeezed on to the stub of spring coming from the base.

Now -with the tool- wind the spring backward about 5 times and insert the pin thru the gear and into the shaft. With the tool in place pull the starter thru several times to see if the tension is right and you didn't forget the rope guide..

Replace the original screw to hold the pin in place.

This works for most pop-up starters.

I assume that you are speaking of a pull start mechanism.
I can not imagine how to put a put pull starter back on "wound tight". Your pulling on the cord tightens a spring which pulls the cord back in. They go back together with the cord fully wound onto the spool.
Usually, I only take these apart to replace the cord. Wind the new cord onto the spool without handle. Reassemble, then pull out on the cord a little when attaching the handle to the cord. This is the only way to get tension onto the spring at the fully retracted position because the catch for the spring is on the machine and the spring itself is on the underside what you are assembling.
If you do not wish to shorten the cord or replace it, then remove the handle, assemble enough to catch the spring, wind one turn tighter then feed rope through hole and reattach handle. Easier said than done.
If your spring is broken, then you will be needing a new one.
:o)

Unless the recoil spring is broken, then you may have neglected to pre-load the recoil spring. With the recoil unit off of the motor, wind the rope fully around the pulley. Then, while keeping the rope fully wound, turn the pulley about 5 times around in the direction that would push the hope out through the hole. At this point the recoil spring will be trying to spin. Without losing that tension, push the end of the rope out through the hole, thereby putting a bit more tension on the recoil spring. Tie on the handle. Now, when you let go of the rope, the spring should hold the handle snug against the hole. An alternative method is to use a rope about 2 to 3 feet longer than the original. Wind it fully around the spool and put the end of it through the hole. Now pull the extra length through the hole until the tension is sufficient. Cut off the extra length and tie on the handle.
good luck, Al K

First you take the unit apart at the engine/shaft junction. Take a #15 Torx screwdriver into the end of the clutch and remover the driver. Once the clutch is clear, you have to remove it. Some people put a bolt of the same thread size as the spark plug into the plug hole far enough to touch the piston. When that is done, take a piece of hardwood and spin the clutch off. Use a hammer if you need to. Next, pull apart the engine from the casing. You now have the rope and spring at the end. If the spring has not come out of the metal ring, LEAVE IT ALONE! Replace the rope and leave the rope off the spool. Now carefully place the spool onto the spring and wind the spring tight while holding the rope in the cutout provided at the edge of the spool. Once you have the spring wound up, CAREFULLY allow the rope to retract. Attach the spool and re-assemble the unit in the reverse order you took it apart. Hope this is enough info. Please use caution when working with the spring. Good luck...Lee

You have to take the machine apart. The first thing is to separate the shaft from the engine. Then take off the shaft driver. There is a screw in the end. It takes a #15 TORX screwdriver. Once that is off, you have to spin off the clutch. To do that, hold the engine somehow and remove the clutch counter-clockwise. With that off, you can then remove the engine from the molding at the other end. The spool will be sitting on the rewind spring so BE CAREFUL. If the spring comes out it will be a big pain! Just lift the spool off, replace the rope and attach as the old one was. Now, you have the rope connected. Place the spool on the spring. Place the rope in the notch at the edge of the spool and slowly wind the spool on the spring. When you have it wound as far as you want, take the rope from the notch and into the spool. Allow the rope to rewind onto the spool. Put everything back as it was before you started and you have finished...Good luck...Lee

If you have the starter spool out (the one the rope goes in)...Here is what to do. Take the starter spool and change the rope out putting it back exactly as it was. Leave the rope hanging. Hold the spool and set it down on the rewind spring. Turn the spool on the rewind spring until you feel it is tight enough. While turning, hold the rope in the little slot in the spool so it can go around without hanging up. Once it is tight, get the rope in line with the spool opening and SLOWLY let the rope rewind. Put on the handle and put the unit back together.Good luck...Lee

1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. 2. Raise the front of the car and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3. Remove the wheel nuts and front wheel. 4. Remove the brake hose mounting bolts. 5. Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts, and hang the caliper to one side. CAUTION: To prevent accidental damage to the caliper or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper from the undercarriage. 6. On ABS equipped vehicles, remove the wheel sensor wire bracket, then remove the wheel sensor from the knuckle but do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector. NOTE: Use ball joint removers to separate the ball joints from the suspension or tie-rod end. 7. Clean any dirt or grease off the ball joint. Remove the cotter pin from the tie-rod end ball joint castle nut and remove the nut. 8. Apply grease to the special tool on the areas shown. This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt threads. 9. Install a 10mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end to prevent damage to the threaded end of the ball joint. 10. Adjust the jaw spacing by turning the pressure bolt. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 11. Once the tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then hand tighten the pressure bolt, and recheck the jaws to make sure they are still parallel as pictured above. 12. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint shaft pops loose from the steering arm. WARNING: WEAR EYE PROTECTION. THE BALL JOINT CAN BREAK LOOSE SUDDENLY AND SCATTER DIRT OR OTHER DEBRIS IN YOUR EYES. 13. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint and pull the ball joint out of the steering/suspension arm. Inspect the ball joint boot and replace if damaged. 14. Remove the cotter pin from the lower arm ball joint castle nut, and remove the nut. 15. Install a 12mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint pin might be damaged by the ball joint remover. 16. Use the ball joint remover, 32mm, as shown to separate the lower ball joint and lower arm. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 17. Remove the knuckle protector. 18. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut, and remove the nut. 19. Install a 10mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint pin might be damaged by the ball joint remover. 20. Use the ball joint remover as shown to separate the upper ball joint and knuckle. NOTE: If necessary, apply penetrating type lubricant to loosen the ball joint. 21. Pull the knuckle outward and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the knuckle by tapping the driveshaft end using a plastic hammer, then remove the knuckle. 22. Remove the knuckle from the hub unit. 23. Remove the four flange bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake disc.