My dryers plug shorted out and tripped the breaker. I replaced the plug and turned it all back on and it worked.....then seconds later a loud poof sound from the dryer and now nothing is working. Please help

SOURCE: Dryer trips breaker after 5 minutes...BRAND NEW!!

Hi Shel,
Based on your description of the problem, I came up with a theory. Your new dryer is of higher wattage than your old one and is therefore pulling more amperage. I'd also make a bet that your dual breaker in the basement has the number "30" printed on it. Whether it does or not, your breaker should be replaced.
NOTE---> Ideally, you'd begin by removing the breakers (there are 2 of them) from the panel and take them with you to Lowe's, Home Depot or Ace Hardware and ask one of the sales associates for a 40 amp version. This way, you'd be sure to get the right ones. If you don't want to do that, then open up the breaker box and copy all the information off of the dryer breaker (also take not of how wide it is... 1/2", 3/4", etc...). Basically you'll need who made it (Square D, G.E., etc...) and how wide it is. Use this info to shop for a 40 amp version.

I don't need to tell you that working inside a breaker box can be EXTREMELY DANGEROUS if you are not careful. Here is a picture of the inside of the box, NOTICE THE LUGS AT THE TOP! THEY ARE ALWAYS "HOT" AND SHOULD NEVER BE TOUCHED!!!!!


Before you remove the panel to access the interior of the box, TURN OFF YOUR "MAIN BREAKER" (it's shown in the picture above).

Now that all of the safety stuff is covered, all you gotta do is pull the bad breaker out and install the new one! Piece of cake, really. Here's a video on how it's done.There ya go! If this has been helpful for you, please remember to rate this solution. Thanks for using FixYa!

SG

SOURCE: Dryer Won't Start

Make sure it has power. Then:Check the door switch. A little lever sticking down through top right of door opening. If it is not there you will need new door switch(sometimes the little lever breaks off). If it is there and does not click when you press it in you need a new door switch. if it clicks when you close the door then you have a bad thermal fuse.The thermal fuse is found by taking the back of the dryer off. The fuse is an oblong white plastic piece with 2 wires attached.

Door switch part number 3406109
Thermal fuse part number 3392519

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer won't turn on

Hi...
This are the tipe on how to Troubleshot dryer follow the steps below

IF the dryer is noisy

Level the dryer
Check the drum belt
Check the drum support rollers
Check the idler pulley
Check the glides 
Check drum bearings
Check the blower
Check the baffles

If the dryer tumbles, but there is no heat

Check for proper air flow
Test the safety fuse
Test the thermostats
Test the centrifugal switch
Test the timer motor
Test the heating element

Good luck !!!!

Regards

PCmania

SOURCE: Have heavy duty kenmore dryer that is heating up.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. These two components work in conjunction the control the temperature of the heating circuitry. NOTE: If you are having repeated problems with heating circuit failures, I would recommend you inspect the entire length of the dryer exhaust vent ducting to esnure it is not kinked or clogged anywhere. Follow up with an inspectin of the dryer interior cabniet. A dryer in a clogged state will actually overheat to the point of failure. Most commonly the TCO fails. Eventually this will lead to heating element failure.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

SOURCE: Cycle Signal keeps beeping loud-soft every 15 seconds while dryin

Hi Celine, I just experienced the same exact problem. I came here looking for a solution. I got mine to stop by holding down the cycle signal button for 3 seconds, releasing it for three seconds, and repeating until both lights (loud and soft) went off. Hope it helps.

peter