Machine stops ''for safety reasons''

The stitch in the ditch foot is used for stitching directly in the seam line of 2 fabrics, most often for quilting lines. It is also used to sew two fabrics together. For the Stitch in the ditch sewing (quilting) place the needle in the center position, straight stitching and align the protruding blade on the stitch in the ditch presser foot directly on the seam line. Sew straight in the seamline using blade as the guide. To bind 2 fabrics, place the finished edges of the fabrics together, side by side touching. Place the foot with the blade between the two fabrics.Guide the fabric to touch the blade as you sew.
Set the stitching to zig zag stitch. Sew zig zag, keeping the fabrics touching the protruding guide on the presser foot. Hope this helps!

Probably the 1/4" quilting foot. It is designed so it's easier to sew a scant 1/4" seam by aligning the fabric edge to the foot's edge, which is what you need for piecing. Of course, to get it perfectly accurate, you may need to move the needle slightly or figure out where exactly 1/4" from the needle falls on your machine (important if you will be matching points in your piecing). Measuring 1/4" from the needle and then marking with a strip of painter's tape works for some.

https://www.connectingthreads.com/tutorials/How_to_Sew_an_Accurate_Quarter_Inch_Seam_Allowance__D95.html

3 Ways to Master the Perfect Quarter Inch Seam

Accurate Piecing Basics Quarter inch Seams WeAllSew

If you are sewing bias strips end to end, any foot would work. A 1/4" seam allowance is probably fine. You'll probably just need to cut the ends @ 45 degree angles and match them up before stitching. Sewing them at 90 degree angles creates a big bulk of fabric whereas 45 degree angles spread the bulk out when applied to your cushion fabric.

Learn How to Join the Ends When Quilt Binding Tips from McCall Quilting

Don't expect a quilt to be as accurate from a serger as from a sewing machine. First, you probably want to focus a strip quilt where rows of strips are stitched together. If you do strips, you won't have to worry so much about maintaining an exact 1/4" seam. You can also vary the widths of strips in order to camouflage any seam variations. Avoid a pattern that requires points being aligned! Any seam width variances will not as obvious as an error (it is intensive getting an accurate 1/4" on a sewing machine--so-o-o-o much more difficult on a serger). There are usually seam width marks on a serger that you can follow as a guide, but straight line serging is very difficult to accomplish. You can always try marking a line on your serger using painter's tape.

FWIW, making a strip quilt on a serger is a fast way of finishing a quilt. I divide my quilt into 3 or 4 sections, like making it in thirds or fourths. That way, when the quilt begins to grow, you are not constantly grappling with flipping or turning the heavy and bulky fabric. Instead, do each section separately, then stitch the sections together to make the whole quilt.

Also, be sure to press all the seams of a strip quilt in the same direction.

Strip Quilt Patterns

4 Free Strip Quilt Patterns That Standout from the Crowd Fons Porter

How To Sew An Easy Strip Quilt

https://www.quiltinaday.com/community/topic.asp?forum=2&topic=5481

Make FAST Serger Strip Quilt with 1 4 square Triangles

HI,
check the video
How to Replace Sewing Machine Needles Sewing Lessons

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Your best option will be a "walking" or "even feed" foot. Your Brother dealer should have them in stock.

I have never used a machine to free motion quilt. That said, I have had issues sewing over thick seams. Since your machine runs smoothly otherwise... I think it is the thickness of the seamed area that is causing your problem. It may be too late but you could try trimming your seams so the layers fabric graduate to full thickness. Or you could use a chop stick or popcicle stick to press down on the thickness as you guide the machine over the seam. I also suggest that you Fan your seam allowances where your blocks come together. You can see how that is done here. http://www.allpeoplequilt.com/videos/v/62207505/machine-minute-bulky-intersections-fanning-seam-allowances.htm

Try this website, it has lots of good info on feet and where you would use them. http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/2009/06/feet-feet-feet/ This should help you identify the feet youve got. Many machines will have a zig zag foot with room for the needle to swing, a zipper foot, a blind hem foot and a buttonhole foot as a basic selection. There are lots of others too for specialised techniques such as rolled hem, overcasting or tuffting.

For Quilting though you actually can get away with just a straight stitch foot to piece the fabric and a walking foot if you are going to machine stitch the layers and batting together. This is a walking foot.
Having a quarter inch foot is very handy to achieve perfect 1/4" seams for piecing.
Lastly, if you want to try stippling or free motion quilting, you'll need a special foot, and it will probably look a little like this.



To purchase you could try www.sewingpartsonline.com.

I would try this -

Make sure you are not using quilting thread for hand stitching.

Thread the machine with the presser foot up.

If the machine is stitching seams without a problem and the breakage happens with thicker fabrics, it could be the presser foot is not down below where it is closing the tension to the setting of choice.

When the presser foot is up, the tension control opens. When the presser foot is down, the tension control closes to the setting you have chosen.

If this continues, call the dealer/tech and tell them the problem you are having.

If you want to piece quilts, I recommend a 1/4" piecing foot. Husqvarna make several different types that may be used on the Rose.
If you want a dual feed or walking foot, check out the new Interchangeable Dual Feed foot.
You only use card with the Rose for embroidery, which you can do on a quilt, but not necessary.