How to replace the piston and rod assembly

Here is the procedure:-

1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.



2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.



3. Remove oil pump and strainer.

TIMING GEAR COVER

1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.



2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS

1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
   

Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.

1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.



2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.



3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.



4. Remove injection pump drive gear.



5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.

CAMSHAFT

1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.



2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.

PISTON & CONNECTING ROD

1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.



2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.



3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.

CRANKSHAFT

1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.



2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.



3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/uttamjeet_2f3adc18600f8ede

Take out the sparkplugs and then try it. Sometimes you need to adjust the thrust setting on the crankshaft on some engines. Some manufactuers have endplay which is adjustable. There are also differences in rods and pistons which require facing a "Diamond" or other mark to the front of the block. All components should have been assembled with grease or oil on bearing surfaces.

Depending on whether you rebored or not, you could have an odd sized piston in the wrong cylinder.

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Remove or disconnect the following:

1. Transaxle/flywheel;Front cover'
2. Timing chain;
3. Oil pan;
4. Oil pump pipe and screen assembly; and
   
5. Connecting rod cap and push piston and connecting rod assembly to the top of the cylinder.

Replace the bearing and reassemble by reversing the process/

I assume you have removed the valve head-valve plate-cylinder assembly from the base and pistons. Remove the four bolts holding the bearing cap assembly on one side of the crankcase and remove the cap. You have to pull on the crank to get the crank bearing out of the opposite side of the crankcase. Move the crank forward and turn it until the rear bearing will clear the crankcase and the whole thing will tilt and come out the top. Campbell sells the entire crank, con rods, pistons & rings as an assembly under part number VT040600AJ. This is the best way to go as they don't have con rods to go on the crank if you were to get the journals turned down. NOTE: During reassembly, the bottoms of the cylinders have a taper so you don't need a ring compressor to get the pistons in the cylinders. Just be sure the oil rings are in properly before pushing the cylinder all the way down. The thin oil scrapper rings have a tendency to fold over and get caught between the piston and cylinder.

When assembled at the factory, parts were lubed with special grease to last thru storage (could be months). This grease could have prevented really bad damage to internal parts. If worked loose the engine could run.
When overheated, aluminum parts (piston and rod) will transfer metal to cylinder and crank surface causing lock-up or the parts will expand and the engine will stop (hopefully this is your case). The crank is lubed with splash of oil caused by oil slinger on the bottom of the rod, so when you fill the crankcase oil will not get to rod journal unless you roll the engine at different angles. To unlock frozen engine, you must first get light oil (10 to 20wt) to the rod journal (by tilting or rolling) and add light oil to cylinder (remove plug and add couple tablespoons ((you can add a little gas to the oil to make it slightly more watery so that it will penetrate thru rings down to cylinder wall ))) and wait for a couple of hours to let the oil do its magic. While waiting for the oil to work, remove the fan cover or starter rewind to allow access to the flywheel nut. Apply pressure to flywheel nut with breaker bar first one direction then the other trying to work loose (the easier it is to work loose the better chance the engine was not severly damaged). If the engine works loose, start the generator and let it run for while at a slower speed (hold the governor arm preventing full throttle, let it run slow for short time (when it starts, there will be lots of smoke from oil added to cylinder, it will burn off )). If it starts and you hear bad knocking sound, most likely rod /crank was damaged. This can be repaired by replacing rod and polishing the crank with very fine emory cloth (400 grit or finer) untill all traces of aluminum transfer to crank is removed. Hard to get to rod however because the generator must be removed. Will explain how to remove generator if the engine does not come to life. If it starts and seems ok after holding back the throttle, let it run at normal speed for a while, then change the oil to recommended (10-30wt) Good luck, I will have my fingers crossed.

This is for a 3.3L motor
Hope this helps, it it does please leave feedback and vote Thank You and Good Luck

REMOVAL

1. Release hood latch and open hood.

Removal/Installation of Battery Cables

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Remove windshield wiper housing, refer to the Windshield Wipers and Washers for proper procedures.
3. Remove accessory drive belt.

Generator Mounting Bracket

1. Remove bolt holding top of generator mount bracket to engine air intake plenum.
2. Remove bolts holding outside of generator mount bracket to generator mount plate.
3. Remove bolt holding top of generator to mount bracket.
4. Remove generator mount bracket from vehicle.
5. Rotate generator toward rear dash panel.

Generator

1. Disconnect the push-in field wire connector . from back of generator.
2. Remove nut holding B+ wire terminal to back of generator.
3. Separate B+ terminal from generator.

Generator Pivot Bolt

1. Remove bolt holding bottom of generator to lower pivot bracket.

Generator

1. Remove generator from vehicle

INSTALLATION

1. Place generator in position on vehicle.
2. Install bolt to hold bottom of generator to lower pivot bracket.
3. Place B+ terminal in position on generator.
4. Install nut to hold B+ wire terminal to back of generator.
5. Connect the push-in field wire connector into back of generator.
6. Rotate generator forward away from dash panel.
7. Place generator mount bracket in position on vehicle.
8. Install bolt to hold top of generator to mount bracket.
9. Install bolts to hold outside of generator mount bracket to generator mount plate.
10. Install bolt to hold top of generator mount bracket to engine air intake plenum.
11. Install accessory drive belt.
12. Install windshield wiper housing, refer to the Windshield Wipers and Washers for proper procedures.
13. Connect battery negative cable.
14. Verify generator charge rate.

Ok, the post shows 2 model numbers, so I will provide links for both. Be sure to only pay attention to the model number you actually have.

For a model C3151, an oilless compressor, the only way to get the connecting rod is by buying a piston kit, there is no individual replacement. KK-4835 is the part number and it runs about 50.00.
It can be purchased here.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/piston-cylinder-and-ring-replacement-kit-p-58708.html


Now if you have a C3551, an oiled compressor, the entire Eccentric Rod Assembly will have to be replaced. The part number is Z-D22207 and it runs about 100.00.
It can be purchased here.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/assembly-conrod-eccentri-p-62701.html

I hope this helps.

It can be time consuming and the end result may not be desirable if you haven't done it before.
--- The following is just a sample of what to do once the engine is torn down: Pistons and Connecting Rods

1. Before installing the piston/connecting rod assembly, oil the pistons, piston rings and the cylinder walls with light engine oil. Install connecting rod bolt protectors or rubber hose onto the connecting rod bolts/studs. Also perform the following:
   1. Select the proper ring set for the size cylinder bore.
   2. Position the ring in the bore in which it is going to be used.
   3. Push the ring down into the bore area where normal ring wear is not encountered.
   4. Use the head of the piston to position the ring in the bore so that the ring is square with the cylinder wall. Use caution to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.
   5. Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with a feeler gauge. Ring gap in a worn cylinder is normally greater than specification. If the ring gap is greater than the specified limits, try an oversize ring set. Fig. 5: Checking the piston ring-to-ring groove side clearance using the ring and a feeler gauge
      
      
   6. Check the ring side clearance of the compression rings with a feeler gauge inserted between the ring and its lower land according to specification. The gauge should slide freely around the entire ring circumference without binding. Any wear that occurs will form a step at the inner portion of the lower land. If the lower lands have high steps, the piston should be replaced. Fig. 6: The notch on the side of the bearing cap matches the tang on the bearing insert
      
   
   
2. Unless new pistons are installed, be sure to install the pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed. The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is ever transposed from one engine or cylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to correspond with the new cylinder number. The notch on the piston head goes toward the front of the engine.
3. Install all of the rod bearing inserts into the rods and caps. Fig. 7: Most rings are marked to show which side of the ring should face up when installed to the piston
   
   
4. Install the rings to the pistons. Install the oil control ring first, then the second compression ring and finally the top compression ring. Use a piston ring expander tool to aid in installation and to help reduce the chance of breakage. Fig. 8: Install the piston and rod assembly into the block using a ring compressor and the handle of a hammer
   
   
5. Make sure the ring gaps are properly spaced around the circumference of the piston. Fit a piston ring compressor around the piston and slide the piston and connecting rod assembly down into the cylinder bore, pushing it in with the wooden hammer handle. Push the piston down until it is only slightly below the top of the cylinder bore. Guide the connecting rod onto the crankshaft bearing journal carefully, to avoid damaging the crankshaft.
6. Check the bearing clearance of all the rod bearings, fitting them to the crankshaft bearing journals. Follow the procedure in the crankshaft installation above.
7. After the bearings have been fitted, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the journals and bearings.
8. Turn the crankshaft until the appropriate bearing journal is at the bottom of its stroke, then push the piston assembly all the way down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal. Be careful not to allow the bearing cap screws to strike the crankshaft bearing journals and damage them.
9. After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the connecting rod side clearance on each crankshaft journal.
10. Prime and install the oil pump and the oil pump intake tube.
11. Install the auxiliary/balance shaft(s)/assembly(ies).

OHV Engines CAMSHAFT, LIFTERS AND TIMING ASSEMBLY

1. Install the camshaft.
2. Install the lifters/followers into their bores.
3. Install the timing gears/chain assembly.

CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Assemble the rest of the valve train (pushrods and rocker arms and/or shafts).

OHC Engines CYLINDER HEAD(S)

1. Install the cylinder head(s) using new gaskets.
2. Install the timing sprockets/gears and the belt/chain assemblies.

Engine Covers and Components Install the timing cover(s) and oil pan. Refer to your notes and drawings made prior to disassembly and install all of the components that were removed. Install the engine into the vehicle. Engine Start-up and Break-in STARTING THE ENGINE Now that the engine is installed and every wire and hose is properly connected, go back and double check that all coolant and vacuum hoses are connected. Check that your oil drain plug is installed and properly tightened. If not already done, install a new oil filter onto the engine. Fill the crankcase with the proper amount and grade of engine oil. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of coolant/water.

1. Connect the vehicle battery.
2. Start the engine. Keep your eye on your oil pressure indicator; if it does not indicate oil pressure within 10 seconds of starting, turn the vehicle OFF. WARNING
   Damage to the engine can result if it is allowed to run with no oil pressure. Check the engine oil level to make sure that it is full. Check for any leaks and if found, repair the leaks before continuing. If there is still no indication of oil pressure, you may need to prime the system.
   
3. Confirm that there are no fluid leaks (oil or other).
4. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature (the upper radiator hose will be hot to the touch).
5. At this point any necessary checks or adjustments can be performed, such as ignition timing.
6. Install any remaining components or body panels which were removed.

Sounds like you need to service the caliper. Remove the piston from the caliper by pumping the brake pedal, be warned you will get brake fluid everywhere. Remove piston seals, dust and oil, you'll probably find that the grooves where they usually reside are full of 'crud' thoroughly clean the grooves, clean the seals then inspect seals for damage and replace if necessary, grease seals (high temp grease) and put back into caliper, wipe away excess grease. Inspect piston for corrosion, minor corrosion can be flatted back with 1200 grit sandpaper, if too badly corroded replace. lightly grease piston (high temp grease) and push into caliper. the piston should slide in easily by hand. Finally bleed caliper well, flush new fluid through entire system.

1. This cylinder is not to hard to disassemble.
2. Place upright in vise or suitable bracing.
3. Using a block or dowel of wood(maybe rubber mallet also), depress the top cap of the cylinder to relieve tension on the ring.
4. Use a small edged screw driver or pick and spin "retainer" in until the bent end comes to the opening.
5. Lift up and rotate the ring more to allow the ring to pass over the edge of the opening.
6. Once the retainer is started you can tap it with the wood and rubber mallet around the circumference of the cylinder to release the retainer from the groove.
7. If you havent done so by now the oil should be drained.
8. with the cylinder firm in vise(but not too firm to "distort the integrity of the cylinder.) Place the cylinder Sideways so you can pull out piston and rod assembly.*** Put hose or suitable drain on holes of cylinder***. With the motion of the piston the residual oil will tend to spray out.
9. Pull on the piston and position it to bottom out on the top gland(cap) ie:full extension
10. Place support under the rod to avoid damage. The gland is a tight tolerant fit with use of O-rings and backup rings. Too much offset can lead to damaging gland assembly, and jamming in the cylinder. You may be able to just hold with hand also depends on size, bore, stroke, pressure rating. Use due dilligence.
11. Now that its out you have the piston assembly with gland in hand..**if only the rod comes out there are more steps to take, and you need a new rod but sometimes its more cost effective to buy a new cylinder. If there is a farm supplier or hydraulic dealer near they can certifiably /replace repair the cylinder for you. Hydraulic pressure is kind of like lightening. If it strikes you under pressure it can kill you.*** Using the dead blow or rubber mallet try to pop the gland out by using the piston/rod assembly as the puller. You may not have to remove the top clevice or other end of the cylinder, so maybe you could tap on that.
12. The piston can be removed from the rod depending again on make. Usually a socket head cap screw or king nut holding it in place to the rod.
13. When the piston is removed you should be able to slide gland off also.
14. You'll need that pick and or the screwdriver to pick out the seals carefully. Let me know if you require more...WF Services