Cyle stops after 1st cycle. Water in the bottom of the tub. Normal, Heavy and Quick light indicators are blinking.
Our Samsung has the touch surface on the top edge of the door, no mechanical buttons, and we kept getting errors like that. Took me a while to realize that those buttons work by capacitance like a touch screen phone, and that my IKEA countertop had a metal heat/steam shield which was close enough to the door to essentially 'push' the buttons and turn our washer off. We solved the problem by applying a vinyl bumper sticker over the heat shild to prevent the metal from conducting a signal. BOO YA, BOYEEE!!
Our Samsung has the touch surface on the top edge of the door, no mechanical buttons, and we kept getting errors like that. Took me a while to realize that those buttons work by capacitance like a touch screen phone, and that my IKEA countertop had a metal heat/steam shield which was close enough to the door to essentially 'push' the buttons and turn our washer off. We solved the problem by applying a vinyl bumper sticker over the heat shild to prevent the metal from conducting a signal. BOO YA, BOYEEE!!
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SOURCE: Normal cycle light flashing
If its the ormal led flashing that is normally caused by a stuck key ing the key pad. Might try unplugging and plugging back in but sounds like you need a new touchpad.
SOURCE: BF162 Hotpoint intergrated dishwasher
When you switch it on can you still select the wash type ?
If you can, when you shut the door does it start the cycle normally by pumping out the sump, but then when the wash pump (the cause of the main noise during the cycle) would normally start it stops and beeps - opening the door then shows the flashing error code ?
If your symptoms are the same as above or similar, suspect the heater is stuffed. My BFI62 did the above and it turned out to be a faulty (open circuit) heater. As I had no knowledge of dishwashers at the time, I called in a repair guy. As soon as he saw the fault code he suspected the heater - seems a batch of heaters (from the USA) had proved very unreliable (apparently Hotpoint got compensation from the manufacturers because of the number of problems it caused them). The replacement was made in Germany and the repair guy said he'd not known one of those to go faulty !
The repair guy diagnosed the heater open circuit from the control panel inside the door without even removing the dishwasher from it's location. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to note which wires ran off the board to the heater. Changing the heater needed it out and on it's side (be prepared for quite a lot of water on the floor).
Finally, when he'd fitted the new heater, it took him two goes to get the pipes either side of it to seal properly - quite common apparently and the source of even more water on the floor !
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Lights blinking and won't clear
the solution #3 should work.. you may want to try again.... first turn off the Breaker to cut power then wait a few minutes then turn back on, then within 6 seconds try (Heated dry)(normal)(heated dry)(normal).. all lights should light up then you know that you are in the service cycle, and the unit should go into a self test and clear the fault. The test take about 30 minutes. let me know if you can get into it...
SOURCE: FDW60 Fast and Delicate Lights Flash
This is a bad control board that if replaced will only repeat in a short time .My advice is to contact the manufacturer and complain,you have the right as a consumer to do so.
SOURCE: l63 Salt light is flashing
goes for short time and 2 ljghts flash the red salt light wont go on
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