Washer wont stop filling and over flowing

For Whirlpool washers, F20 indicates no incoming water or that the tub didn't fill to the appropriate level in the expected time. The problem could be simple: open the shut-off valves. (Sometimes, the hoses may need to be replaced. Anti-flood hoses can limit the water flow if they are leaking.) Other issues are a faulty inlet valve or a problem with the flow sensor. Watch the water come into the machine. If it flows in slowly, turn off the shut-off valves. Take the hoses off the washer and place the ends in a bucket. Open one shut-off valve at a time and watch the water flow rate. If the water flows through the hoses at the normal rate, look at the inlet valve. If the water was coming into the washer normally, then the flow sensor may be a problem. This involves a reed switch and an air tube, dirt in the tube can sometimes be blown out which cures the problem. Otherwise, check the reed switch and replace it.

If water pours into the machine and then drains out, check the position of the drain hose. If the hose end is below the water level of the washer tub, the unit will siphon out water as fast as it flows in. If these problems are not seen, then the issue could be the control board not receiving the water level information. Check the wiring for damage (small breaks in the wiring can happen). The wiring harness connections may have corrosion building up. Replace or clean the wires. If needed replace the control board.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

An E11 error indicates a problem with the incoming water. The error will occur if the tub doesn't fill normally in about 8 minutes. This could be related to closed shut-off valves, failing anti-flood hoses, or debris in filters in the hoses or at the inlet valve on the washer. It could also come from a fault with the sensor that detects the weight of the washer tub, a problem with the reed switch that tracks water flow into the washer, the air tube that goes to the reed switch or a failure of the inlet valve. It can even indicate that the end of the drain hose is below the water level in the washer and is siphoning water out as the tub fills.

If no water or a trickle of water is reaching the tub, first make sure that the shut-off valves are open. Next close the valves and disconnect the hoses. Place the hoses into a bucket and check the water flow by opening the shut-off valves. Shut off the valves. Clean the filters, including those in the inlet of the washer. Reconnect the hoses or replace them with new ones if there was low flow. (Check the flow at the shut-off valves themselves with a similar bucket under the valve opening, if you can.) If these steps don't work, you need to replace the inlet valve assembly. It failed in the closed position.

If water is filling the tub normally and flowing out the drain, check the drain hose position. If the tub is filling and is held in the tub, then the washer isn't correctly measuring the water flow. Check the reed switch and that tubing by blowing into the tube. Replace a faulty switch and remove any blockages from the tubing. Check the wiring harness to ensure that the message got to the control board.

See http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/41741122310/0582/0153200.html for parts diagrams and price lists. You need the control panel diagram.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you may have selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
The item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test.
Another test u can do to check the water inlet valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
The item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test.
Another test u can do to check the water inlet valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
TIMER
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Hello Denise C - There are several things that could cause the bleach to not dispense into the washer. Are you sure the liquid in the dispenser after the wash is bleach? If it is pure bleach, the solenoid that lets the water into the dispenser is not working. This solenoid is located on the back of the dispenser. It only gets voltage during the dispense time and fills the bleach dispenser with water. The bleach dispenser fills while the washer is filling for the rinse cycle.



When the washer begins to fill for the rinse cycle, the bleach solenoid is energized and water flows into the bleach dispenser cup. When the cup is full the water siphons out and bleach and water flow into the tub.



If the liquid in the bleach dispenser is pure bleach you may need a technician to diagnose and repair the problem. The voltage will have to be tested to the bleach solenoid and a volt meter is required.



If the liquid in the bleach dispenser is water you probably need to clean the dispenser cup. Scum will build up in the siphon tube and stop the liquid from going into the washer tub. The incoming water will dilute the bleach and overflow the dispenser cup and run into the tub.



Remove the insert from the bleach and fabric softener compartments. Clean the bottom of the insert and the bleach and fabric softener compartments. Reinstall the insert and put the drawer back inside the washer.



To test the siphon action slowly pour water into the bleach compartment. When the water level goes above the maximum line stop pouring. The water should all drain out. You may also test the fabric softener compartment the same way.



I do hope this information proves to be helpful.

the washing machine is designed with a timer limit switch have the switch checked.

Hello,

The FH error code mean that no water was detected entering the machine.The things to check are,a pinched or kinked water hose into the washer, the faucets off or if faucets on make sure that something has not restricted the water flow through the hoses..this will be possible espically if they washer is connected using "AQUA FLOW FLOOD STOP" ..the internal flood stopper will cause water flow to be cutoff for no reason. Also check the filter screens on the back of the washer where the fill hoses connect to,for debris in the screens.

If all above checks ok i would suspect the part called the FLOWMETER was defective in the washing machine.


GENE

Try pouring water through soap tray without spilling. you can finish the cycle now. Thereafter check your inlet water connection for free flow.

If you disconnected power and water still flowed, replace the water valve. If water stopped flowing when power was disconnected, clean out tube from tub to water level switch.

CHANGE THE WATER INLET VAVES