Not building pressure into tank

If you aren't getting a buildup of air in the tank, either the tank isn't holding the compressed air or the pump isn't compressing air. Check the unit for leaks, especially at all joints like the tank drain valve, pressure switch, tank check valve and the pressure relief & outlet tubes. If all of these are OK, you'll have to check the pump. Remove the head to check the condition of the valve plate and reed valves. Also check the piston ring and cylinder for damage. You can go to a site like www.ereplacementparts.com to see a great breakdown of your compressor. Most parts you may need are also available there.

In order to build pressure, you need to first make sure that you have enough product to generate enough steam to build pressure. In a Model 1800 you need about 5-6 pieces of chicken or the equivalent to build a sufficient amount of pressure. You also have to have enough heat to create the steam, so check the oil temperature with a thermometer to make sure the actual temperature of the oil is close to the set temperature. If you have enough product at the proper temperature but no pressure is being generated, you need to determine where the steam is escaping. If the steam is escaping around the cover, replace the cover o-ring. If the steam is escaping from the exhaust stack in the back right corner of the unit, then your pressure regulating valve needs to be cleaned or rebuilt. The pressure regulating valve is mounted to the front of the cooking well just below the countertop. If the unit is several years old you should go ahead and get the rebuild kit for it.

You have either warped or broken reed valves on the valve plate or a broken piston ring and/or a damaged cylinder. Any of these will allow a small amount of air compression but as the tank gets pressure in it, it gets harder to push more air into it. If the reed valves or piston to cylinder seal is compromised more and more air will leak past the bad reed or the piston as the pressure goes up in the tank. You'll have to disassemble the air pump to find out what's damaged and needs replacing.

First I would start with the simple solutions.1. Check to see if your water pressure is good. 2. Check the pressure hose and tip for ubstructions. 3. Check the inet strainer and make sure you have no leaks. 4. Check the unloader valve which is located usually in the area of the pipe for your pressure hose connection. Remove and clean valve and port the valve sits in and lube with white lithium grease light coating. Try machine, if this doesn't work remove pump and inspect all the check valves and pump body for build up of gunk. If you find this you can clean with carburetor cleaner or you may have to purchase a rebuild kit. If you have problems finding the unloader valve go to jackssmallenginerepair.com and do a parts look up and you will see where this valve is. You can also purchase the rebuild kit on this site. Hope this helps.

There are a number of possibilities. The head on the compressor pumps usually uses some type of reed valves to separate the intake and exhaust sides. You can remove the top bolts (usually 4 bolts) that hold the head on and inspect the valve plate(s). Are the reed valves (usually just small metal strips) broken or not seating on their plates. Are the gaskets in fine shape? If you get a tear in the middle of the head or valve plate gasket, where it separates the intake and exhaust, then the pump will only build up pressure to the range you have or sometimes up to only the 50psi range.

Another thing to check is if it has a one way check valve that goes into the tank where the pump line/hose feeds from the compressor pump into the tank. Many of the check valves use a simple plastic cup and a spring. If they get stuck open then that will also make it not build up pressure.

The other part I can think of is the control box but usually when they fail they either won't turn on the unit or they will leak air.

The last thing to check would be the piston ring(s) and cylinder/sleeve. The oil less compressors will wear these items out far more often then an oil style will. When the oil less piston and sleeve get scored up (from dirt ingestion) then they also will not build up much pressure.

Air leaking back from tank check valve or leaking reed valves can make a squeaking or vibrating noise. With pressure in tank remove fitting at the tank check valve and test for leak with soapy water. If leaking, replace with generic valve. If no leak, reinstall fitting and let all the air out of the tank. With empty tank and air filter removed, start compressor and feel strength of suction at intake. When you hear the squeak retest strength of suction at intake and compare. If reed valves are leaking, you will feel less suction as tank pressure increases, and in severe leaking valves, you will actually feel air blowing out of intake. Repair/replace reeds and /or leaking gaskets in head of compressor. Good luck

You have either damaged reed valves or piston ring. Both of which are common problems with this type of compressor. To diagnose: Remove the motor cover, then the four screws holding the cylinder head on. The valve plate is under the head and all eight reeds, five intake and three output, must be in very good condition to work properly. You'll need the valve plate, part number N017592, and head gasket, part number Z-D24819, if there are any damaged reed valves. If they're OK, check the piston ring. Remove the screw holding the piston on the flywheel and pull the con-rod out of the cylinder. The ring around the piston must be in perfect condition to build pressure. The connecting rod kit, part number KK-4964, is the only way to get the piston seal ring.

Maurader1 an apprentice has this problem solved and is spot on. All these gurus and wiz need to stick to the basic and common sense. The first place your pump will give out after use or abuse is the gasket. All this garbage about defective reeds and defective pressure switch is a lot of nonesense if you first don't rule out the most common problem the head gasket. I'm cheap and this thing has paid for itself 10 time over. You can get a gasket kit for $7, but I fabricated a gasket out of the back of my notebook and sprayed some gasket spray and been working like a charm ever since.

those have a reed valve set up you need to pull the head off and you will see two strips of metal that are usually held down with two small screws each the one on intake side most likely you could get a rebuild kit cheap it will only have new reed valves maybe new screws for them a leather ring and a head gasket

The check valve is easy to test. All that you have to do is run the compressor till you have some pressure in the tank, 50 ~ 60 lbs will do, then remove the air discharge tube at the check valve installed in the tank (the brass valve). Spray soapy water into the valve. Tiny leak is ok, rapid leak replace valve with generic valve from www.grainger.com . Most likely problem is worn cylinder or reed valves in the head. To check cylinder, unplug unit and (oilfree compressor) remove cover to expose the crank. Push the piston all the way up and check for scratches on the upper part of cylinder. If scratched, replace with kit# K-0650 available at www.toolpartsdirect.com. If cylinder is smooth all the way up then problem should be the reedvalve plate in the head. The reeds could be held open with debris or broken. Clean or replace as needed. Good Luck and email if you have questions about the repair. (Oil in crankcase type compressor will not have cylinder problems)