What type of solder should i use for my A-1054-157-A G BOARD

You have a shorted Diode in the power supply board.The power supply board has a 110 volt AC cord attached to it. Locate diode D621. It will be near the red, black and white wires attached to the inverter board. Snip this diode on one end and lift it just to clear the board. You may cut the other end and remove (don't have to). Do not try to tear the diode out or you will destroy the board. The TV will operate fine without this diode. Replace your ac fuse (4 AMP, GMA fast blow fuse ). You just repaired your TV. Thanks for asking, Matt of Martins TV.

The diodes D6301 and D6116 on the G board have failed and will require replacement since the G boards are no longer available it will require very detailed soldering as one of the diodes is a surface mount chip. Often if you cant do the repairs due to the soldering you can get your G board rebuilt at www.tvrepairworld.com which has a warranty.

You have hooked your power wire up backwards at some point and blown the polarity protection diodes.

This requires opening the radio and using a soldering iron to remove and replace the blown diode.

You will need:

1. Soldering Iron
2. Solder
3. De-soldering braid
4. N1004 diode or better.
5. Phillips head screw driver.

Using the phillips head screw driver to take the bottom cover of the radio off being careful of the speaker wires. Using the soldering iron, heat the solder on the tabs of the speaker and pull off the wires. No need to use the de-soldering braid to remove the solder. You should do this to make it easier to handle the radio, and to avoid damage to the speaker or wires etc.

Now take the cover off the top of the radio. This will reveal the "Trace" side of the board. This is where all of the components are soldered to the board.

Now flip it to the other side where you can see all of the components and wires etc. Look at the back right of the radio by where the power socket is. Look for D10. its a big black diode. It will most likely be black and burnt. Some times it may not be.

Here is the tricky part. You need to locate the points at which this component marked D10 is soldered to the trace side of the board. Some times you can use a bright light and look at the trace side of the board while the light shines on the other side to locate the part.

Once you have located the points at which the diode is soldered too, do not de-solder it yet. Make note of which side of the diode the white band is on. This is important, putting the diode in with the wrong polarity will make the radio not work.

After you take note of the white band you may now use the de-soldering braid to remove the solder from the trace side of the board. To do this, place the braid over the solder point. put the tip of the soldering iron on the braid and press it down to the solder point. You will see it **** the solder into the braid.

Once the solder is off both solder point, flip the radio and remove the bad diode.

Put the new diode in, making sure the white band is on the same side as the original diode.

Once again flip the radio over to trace side of the board and solder the new diode in. To do this place the tip on the solder point, making sure to touch both the solder point of the board and the wire from the diode. take the solder and touch it to the solder point, not the soldering iron tip. Once enough solder is on the point you can remove the soldering tip. Don't use too much solder.

Once both points have been re-soldered, solder the speaker wires back to the speaker. Red is positive, it connects to the tab marked by the positive symbol "+". The white wire is negative. It goes to the negative symbol, "-". You can just reheat the tab, and put the end of the wire into the melted solder and remove the solder tip while holding the wire in place until it cools enough harden again.

After the speaker is re-soldered, Put the covers back on. Now be very careful hooking up the radio to power. If you hook it up backwards again it will blow the diode again. Once the power wire is connected, turn on the radio, it should work fine at this point.

Good Luck!

You have hooked your power wire up backwards at some point and blown the polarity protection diodes.

This requires opening the radio and using a soldering iron to remove and replace the blown diode.

You will need:

1. Soldering Iron
2. Solder
3. De-soldering braid
4. N1004 diode or better.
5. Phillips head screw driver.

Using the phillips head screw driver to take the bottom cover of the radio off being careful of the speaker wires. Using the soldering iron, heat the solder on the tabs of the speaker and pull off the wires. No need to use the de-soldering braid to remove the solder. You should do this to make it easier to handle the radio, and to avoid damage to the speaker or wires etc.

Now take the cover off the top of the radio. This will reveal the "Trace" side of the board. This is where all of the components are soldered to the board.

Now flip it to the other side where you can see all of the components and wires etc. Look at the back right of the radio by where the power socket is. Look for D23. its a big black diode. It will most likely be black and burnt. Some times it may not be.

Here is the tricky part. You need to locate the points at which this component marked D23 is soldered to the trace side of the board. Some times you can use a bright light and look at the trace side of the board while the light shines on the other side to locate the part.

Once you have located the points at which the diode is soldered too, do not de-solder it yet. Make note of which side of the diode the white band is on. This is important, putting the diode in with the wrong polarity will make the radio not work.

After you take note of the white band you may now use the de-soldering braid to remove the solder from the trace side of the board. To do this, place the braid over the solder point. put the tip of the soldering iron on the braid and press it down to the solder point. You will see it **** the solder into the braid.

Once the solder is off both solder point, flip the radio and remove the bad diode.

Put the new diode in, making sure the white band is on the same side as the original diode.

Once again flip the radio over to trace side of the board and solder the new diode in. To do this place the tip on the solder point, making sure to touch both the solder point of the board and the wire from the diode. take the solder and touch it to the solder point, not the soldering iron tip. Once enough solder is on the point you can remove the soldering tip. Don't use too much solder.

Once both points have been re-soldered, solder the speaker wires back to the speaker. Red is positive, it connects to the tab marked by the positive symbol "+". The white wire is negative. It goes to the negative symbol, "-". You can just reheat the tab, and put the end of the wire into the melted solder and remove the solder tip while holding the wire in place until it cools enough harden again.

After the speaker is re-soldered, Put the covers back on. Now be very careful hooking up the radio to power. If you hook it up backwards again it will blow the diode again. Once the power wire is connected, turn on the radio, it should work fine at this point.

Good Luck!

You need to count the number of blinks between the pause. Most common is 9 blinks. Also- after you press POWER, do you hear a "click" or not? If no click and 9 blinks, you probably have a "zero detect circuit failure" and have two options:
.
(1) Replace the "G" board (part # A1054157A) or have it repaired (they repair it on eBay for about $40. You ship them the bad board and they repair it and return it). A new board costs about $80 on eBay without having to send them your (core) bad board. Sometimes they are not available and you must send your board in for repair. this is MUCH less expensive than SEARS, which charges several hundred dollars.
.
(2) Repair the board yourself- by replacing the two diodes on the "G" Board - (D6301 which is on top- by the small transformer) and (D6116 which is an SMT component on the bottom of the board- it takes VERY steady hands and a good solder iron). The parts should cost less than $25 and are available on eBay by searching for "sony a1054157a".
.



Location of the "G" board. Unplug the TV set, leave it for 10 hours (to discharge the capacitors). Remove the brown back, carefully unplug the cables, unscrew the two mount screws, and unclip the front retaining tab.


This is the MOST LIKELY failed component, D6301. It is a diode and MUST be unsoldered and replaced. Make sure you know that diodes have a SPECIFIC way they must be installed. Note where the stripe is on the component. You can locate a "good" diode by searching on eBay for "sony a1054157a". You should see a parts kit for about $25, give or take.


One other possible culprit is the D6116 diode. This is a surface mounted component (SMT) and will require a steady hand and a very fine-tipped solder iron. I would replace the D6301 FIRST and re-connect the "G" Board to see if that is the ONLY culprit. If you STILL have the same problem, then replace D6116.

You have hooked your power wire up backwards at some point and blown the polarity protection diodes.

This requires opening the radio and using a soldering iron to remove and replace the blown diode.

You will need:

1. Soldering Iron
2. Solder
3. De-soldering braid
4. N1004 diode or better.
5. Phillips head screw driver.

Using the phillips head screw driver to take the bottom cover of the radio off being careful of the speaker wires. Using the soldering iron, heat the solder on the tabs of the speaker and pull off the wires. No need to use the de-soldering braid to remove the solder. You should do this to make it easier to handle the radio, and to avoid damage to the speaker or wires etc.

Now take the cover off the top of the radio. This will reveal the "Trace" side of the board. This is where all of the components are soldered to the board.

Now flip it to the other side where you can see all of the components and wires etc. Look at the back right of the radio by where the power socket is. Look for D93. its a big black diode. It will most likely be black and burnt. Some times it may not be.

Here is the tricky part. You need to locate the points at which this component marked D33 is soldered to the trace side of the board. Some times you can use a bright light and look at the trace side of the board while the light shines on the other side to locate the part.

Once you have located the points at which the diode is soldered too, do not de-solder it yet. Make note of which side of the diode the white band is on. This is important, putting the diode in with the wrong polarity will make the radio not work.

After you take note of the white band you may now use the de-soldering braid to remove the solder from the trace side of the board. To do this, place the braid over the solder point. put the tip of the soldering iron on the braid and press it down to the solder point. You will see it **** the solder into the braid.

Once the solder is off both solder point, flip the radio and remove the bad diode.

Put the new diode in, making sure the white band is on the same side as the original diode.

Once again flip the radio over to trace side of the board and solder the new diode in. To do this place the tip on the solder point, making sure to touch both the solder point of the board and the wire from the diode. take the solder and touch it to the solder point, not the soldering iron tip. Once enough solder is on the point you can remove the soldering tip. Don't use too much solder.

Once both points have been re-soldered, solder the speaker wires back to the speaker. Red is positive, it connects to the tab marked by the positive symbol "+". The white wire is negative. It goes to the negative symbol, "-". You can just reheat the tab, and put the end of the wire into the melted solder and remove the solder tip while holding the wire in place until it cools enough harden again.

After the speaker is re-soldered, Put the covers back on. Now be very careful hooking up the radio to power. If you hook it up backwards again it will blow the diode again. Once the power wire is connected, turn on the radio, it should work fine at this point.

Good Luck!

The G board has a diode #6301. This board is a tan color farthest to the left. I went to Radio Shack and bought a 200V 1A silicone diode and replaced it. Worked like a champ. You will need a 15W pointed tip solder iron and a steady hand. You can replace the board if you like. I found one for $70 on ebay, but the diode is $1.

I just fixed an HTS3555/37 with a no power problem. As one person mentioned, you can hear a ticking sound.
The problem is a diode/rectifier on the power supply board. There was no identifiable number on the board for the part, but it's located just above the "T" in the word "TYPE" in the silk screen notice on the board stating "...REPLACE WITH SAME TYPE FUSE". The original part is an HER104, but I suggest replacing it with a larger diode having 400PIV and 2A rating. I used a 30D4, but any equivalent diode could be used. Proper polarity for the diode is silk screened on the board.
To fix this successfully you should to have some soldering and general electronics repair know-how. Caution: There is in excess of 300V on the power supply board even in its non-working state.

9 blinks means, "Zero Crossing Detector" and the probable cause locations listed are "D6166 or D6114 is open (G board)". I had the exact same problem so I just ordered a new G board and swapped it with the old one and now everything works fine! You could order a new one at this site: http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?PartNumber=A1054157A&x=31&y=19. The Sony board number is A1054157A. Replacing the G board is rather simple; all you got to do is pull out the back cover of the TV and the G board is the first board on your very left. After that unplug the four connectors and replace it with the new one. Here is a picture of the G board inside your TV: http://img47.imageshack.us/img47/8396/backev6.jpg. Hope this helped!

You probably need to replace the convergence IC's and do a good cleaning of the internal mirror and lens. This repair will involve soldering and un-soldering on the printed circuit board. If you have no printed circuit board repair experience, play it safe, and have a pro do this repair for you as that price sounds reasonable for this type of repair. Good luck!