Beko dw604 fitting

I have a related question. My lower spring broke and I have the replacement spring. How do I put it into both plastic fittings at the same time. One arm on the spring goes on mullion while the other arm goes into a fitting on the door. Please help!

Hi - heres the instructions for you - have fun.....

Removal of Cabinet

(Do not use decorative panel to move the machine)

1. Isolate power supply.

2. Remove service and decorative panels (refer Section 6.1).

3. Ease machine forward for all round access. Be careful not to damage floor coverings.

4. Remove two screws from bottom sides of cabinet rear.

5. Remove the top screws on left and right hand sides of the cabinet rear.

6. Remove two screws securing the rear bottom panel.

7. Remove five screws securing the stainless steel frame to cabinet wrapper at front of machine. These are located behind the sound gasket and service panel.

8. Withdraw the cabinet assembly away from the machine.

Refitting: Refit in reverse manner. Fitting the top centre screw in the cabinet wrapper first, makes fitting the cabinet easier.

6.9 Removal of Door Tension Springs

(Do not use decorative panel to move the machine)

Location: The door tension springs are located either side of the machine and are

fitted to the chassis base and door quadrants by means of the end hooks of

these springs.

After isolating the machine from the power supply:

1. Ease machine forward for all round access.

2. Remove service panel (Refer Section 6.1).

3. Remove two screws in the cabinet wrapper exposed by the Service Panel.

4. Remove the springs from the quadrants and the chassis base using pliers.

Refitting: Refit in reverse manner.

6.10 Removal of Hinge Assemblies

(Do not use decorative panel to move machine)

Location: The hinge assemblies are located either side of the door and retained by means of two rivets on each side to the inner door panel.

After isolating the machine from the power supply:

1. Remove service & decorative panels (refer Section 6.1).

2. Remove outer door panel (refer Section 6.2).

3. Remove cabinet (refer Section 6.7).

4. Remove door tension springs (refer Section 6.8).

5. Remove quadrant grommets.

6. Open door fully and drill out the two rivets from the hinge assembly on inner door panel.

7. Hinge assembly can now be removed from inner door and cabinet.

Note: Hinges should be replaced one at a time. Repeat procedure six and seven for other hinge. Hinge guide quadrants can now be removed by depressing sides and pulling free of slot if need be.

Refitting: Refit in reverse manner using 3/16 monal rivets to secure the hinges to the inner door.

The cap probably goes on the the hinge part, most likely on the top just for looks.

The most important thing is to understand that the door spring can KILL YOU. If you are not absolutely certain that you know what you are doing, call a garage door guy. Many poeple get SERIOUSLY hurt.

So, you need two perfectly fitting rods to fit into the spring tightening end of the spring..
Release all spring tension. Release the opener.
Level the door with shims if necessary.
Install the first cable and turn the spring main rod to hold tension.
Put a vice grip on the main rod to keep it from unwinding any more
Release the 2nd cable spool and thread the other side cable. Turn the spool to have the same tension as the other cable.
Then wind the spring about 6 revolutions. (35 flats or tool insertions).

Verfiy the cable is still threaded correctly on both sides.

Correct spring tesnion is when the door will stay at 1/2 closed.
REconnect the opener and good to go.

Hi,

It's fairly easy but you need to remove the front panel of the door first. To do this you will need a T20 T-Star screwdriver or screwdriver bit then follow these instructions:

1. Open the door and fold it down flat - there are 10 screws (T20) around the edges of the door
2. Undo and remove the 3 screws on each side - leave the 4 screws at the top!
3. Close the door
4. Grab the door at the bottom on both sides and pull gently towards you about 2-3 inches.

At this point you may find that 2 plastic clips fall out. Don't panic - it's not broken. They slide back on when the panel is removed.

5. When the bottom of the door is pulled away, pull it downwards and it will slide out from behind the control panel. The outer panel of the door should now be completely free.

You will now be able to see the back of the detergent compartment where the springs are located. Re-attach the springs, then re-fit the door following the instructions above in reverse order. If one or both of the clear plastic door clips have come off, reattach them to the brackets at the bottom of the door before re-fitting the panel. It's much easier this way!

T-Star bits are freely available - I've attached a picture of one.

If you get into any difficulty removing or refitting the door, please post back and I will assist you further.


Please rate this solution if you find it helpful. Thank you.

there is no need to remove the side to replace the door seal, just behind the door seal there is a spring clip undo this and fold the seal into the drum were you should see another spring clip undo that as well and the door seal comes out from the front through the hole in the door, to refit a new fold the seal till its inside out and fitted on the inner drum first fit the inner clip then pull it through the door hole and fit the outer spring clip out side the door

Hi

When you open the machine door, you will see a manufacturer's badge. Record the model number and call around to order the door seal from your local parts vendors. Have the replacement seal ready when you are changing the seal. If you remove the seal and then go to source it, then you might not remember how it was put on initially.

To replace door seal, First turn off machine and unplug from its power source.

Next remove top lid. Two screws in the back of the top lid and you can slide the lid back and up to remove. See if you have a clear view of the door seal from above the machine and see how it is joined to the drum mouth. There would be a metal ring holding it in place. Locate the screw which tightens it and unscrew it to loosen the ring.

Next the wire ring which you have already seen on the front of the seal needs to be removed. These are normally spring loaded. Feel around the ring until you get to the spring tensioner. With a flat screw driver, stretch the spring to pull the ring out from around the seal.

Now observe how the door seal is clipped around the front panel of the machine. The seal has a groove which fits snug agains the rim of the front panel. You can now remove the seal by pulling around the edge.

Now go back to the top of the machine and do a similar thing to remove the seal from around the drum. Make sure you observe how it had fitted on originally, and also observe if there are any differences between the top and bottom of the seal where it sits on the door. There normally is a difference.

When replacing the seal in the reverse manner, make sure you fit the seal correctly around the lips of the drum and the front panel. make sure you also correctly tighten and refit the rings to hold the seal in place.

Once you have finished run a couple of quick cycles without cloths, to make sure there are no leaks and that the seal is fitted properly.

Good luck.
Ash

The door seal, the hot air inlet and door seal overflow pipe had been disconnected from the drum. Main problem was access to reconnect the door seal overflow which is a very short pipe section going to a small hole in the front of the outer drum and access very difficult.

First remove the top cover of the machine. Two very long screws and two self tappers at the top rear of the cover.

Make sure that the hot air duct is disconnected from the heater outlet and remove the separate plastic duct which bridges between the heater and the hot air duct in the seal.

In this case the door seal had been pulled off the outer drum and the retaining coil spring had also been recovered. If the seal is still in place there is a "handle" moulded into the seal which might assist in starting the removal of the seal.

Remove the outer seal from the front panel of the machine by easing out the wire and spring retainer which can be accessed by the door hinge. Carefully remove the door seal from the front panel and remove it.
Check for damage and if necessary get a replacement.

To Refit
Push the door seal into the machine loosely and connect the overflow pipe (very difficult access). I leaned the machine on its back to make access a little easier.

Next carefully fit the seal onto the outer drum starting at the bottom by the overflow pipe. Be very careful not to disturb the previously fitted overflow pipe. Make sure the seal is correctly fitted over the retaining flange on the drum.

Next fit the retaining spring by threading it behind the overflow pipe and into the recess on the outside edge of the seal, connect the two ends of the spring together to form a circle and carefully stretch it into place around the door seal. Take care at the top to make sure it goes behind the hot air inlet duct.
Apply a little gasket compound onto and under the lip of the overflow pipe where it enters the outer drum at the bottom (a bit messy and awkward).

Next fit the seal to the front panel of the machine ensuring that the tabs on the seal are aligned with the markings around the front edge of the door aperture.

Fit the wire and spring retainer such that the coil spring sits on the left side of the opening within the moulded recess in the door seal.

Now refit the hot air inlet duct between the heater unit and the door seal ensuring that the parts are it the correct position and the two lugs are stretched over the the small spigots on the heater body.

It took 4 hours to do the job but that included the learning curve. Reckon it should only take an hour if two peaple are available when fitting the inner and outer seal retaining springs.

The spring goes on the inside of the door seal where it fastens onto the drum, u need to double the seal back in on itself to fit it , and the wire clamp fits on the out side of the seal where it is fastened to the front cabinet opening.
Hope this helps u.
Plz rate my solution.
Thanks.

when you open the door you find a this wire clamp round the edge of the door seal, this just comes off with little force, this has to go back on obviously so don't bend it, the door seal just folds back on itself, the clamp on the drum end is often a large thin spring, and that also just pulls off, the seal then also comes away with a little pull, the new seal is fitted with the groove either side of the drum lip, then the spring is put back, take note how all is removed before working on it? the front of the seal is fitted then the wire, close the door to check a tight but easy fit, check for any leaks and correct fitting before leaving machine unattended any time, sound worse that what it actually is, if i have helped rate me,