Do you know if my woofer is blown?

I do not know what sub woofer and speakers you have and how they are installed, don't change the JL Audio amplifiers, they are very good amplifiers. Also amongst others, I have been using Kenwood in my installs for many years and believe them to be one of the top brands for head units. The unit that you have is a good, very good unit, honestly. In a nut shell, the equipment that you mention are all top class and if functioning correctly, should not be the cause of your disappointment. Low quality cables, bad installations or even incorrect tuning, are often the guilty party in cases such as these. You could fill me in on what else you have and what kind of box the sub woofer is in and what car they are installed in? Search for the source of your disappointment somewhere else. dreamsystems.

Sounds like you are showing too low of an impedance load to the amp. The E1200 is only stable as low as 2 ohms. If your subs are wired to show lower than a 2 ohm load then the amp will go into protection mode as the volume or gains are turned up

Check the wires going to the amp for any corrosion on the terminals and ground.

. Kind of like when someone squeezes a garden hose when your trying to use it. That would be the high volume, starving the amplifier. The capacitor stores power in it to power the amp at high volume. 2 farads would probably be bulletproof on a single amplifier system, but 1 farad should work well enough. Or seek help from an expert on exactly what size capacitor you should use. If you find yourself saying: My amp cuts out.

If this assisted in solving your problem, please take the time to rate it. Thank you.

what is the impedance of your woofers it will be a number with an Omega symbol. Looks like a horseshoe next to your woofer . Like this JL Audio 10W1v3 8ohm. Please, Please tell me you bought 8 ohm woofers JR?? Because if not, it ain't gunna happen.. If you did buy 8 ohm woofers than wire them in parrellel which means all the +'s together and all the -'s together giving you a final impedance of 2 ohms and your amp will think your a car audio GOD... But if not be ready to smell plastic burning where your amp used to be.... let me know i can walk you thru the wiring but let me know what you have. ok. mark

jl audio is a good name to stand by for amps kickers amps sound good at a high vol but not at a low vol

your audio wires from the head unit have been pinched or discontected or the head unit is not putting out a signal

yes a 1200 watt amp will do the trick.. the problem would be in the box the 12w3v2 sub needs a good size box and you should have one made for your car. and yes you will get the bass you want

Connect each speaker coil one at a time to a square 9 volt battery and watch for the cone to move.

Also try hooking another speaker to your amp just to make sure the noise isn't in the amp.

You can use a 9 volt battery to test wire polarity also. Hook up the + wire of the speaker to the + terminal of the battery and the - speaker to the - battery terminal. If the speaker moved UP or OUT then the wiring is correct. If it moved IN or DOWN then the + and - wires are backwards on the speaker.

Also if you have two or more speakers hooked together test all the same way while they are hooked to each other. ALL of the speakers need to move in the same direction at the same time.

Clipping causes more speaker damage than anything. "Dirty Power" can happen in good quality amps too. The gain control is to match the voltage between the headunit and the amp. It is NOT a volume or boost knob. If you overdrive the first stage of the amp and then clip it damage will occur to the amp and speakers at some point.

Hope this helps.

So I am assuming that you have just setup/wired this up recently? Have you had this working before?
You can have a look at the gain control on the amp & see if this have been set really low. This will help if the signal coming from your stereo is weak. The other thing I would suggest is to make sure that the amp can actually push this sub. I know what the specs say:

• 1 channel audio amplifier
• 1 x 350W RMS @ 1.0% THD
• ThermalThrote full-on power assurance
• 2 ohms stable (non-bridged mode only)
• RCA type inputs
• 0.3-6.0 VRMS input capability
• Continuously variable High-Pass & Low Pass 50-250 Hz
• Continuously variable Bass Boost settings (0 tp +12dB)
• Frequency responce: 10-30,000 Hz
• S/N >104 dBA at full power @ 0.1% THD
• >80 dBA at 1W/1M
• Remote gain control, mounting hardware & screws included

but I don't believe most of these. Many manufacturers embellish what their products can actually do! With the bigger more established brands such as JL Audio you will have no problems, their products have been tried & tested so much on the competition circuit.

could be low current ,disconnect all power including ground for 20min N.B most amps will seem to be shorted at output but this is normal due to damping ratio.