1. Dryer stopped working 10 minutes into cycle, All control mode lights flashing. 2. Retrieved error code e4A (cycle ran too long). Reset and ran for 10 minutes - noticed vent pipe was cool too touch. Opened dryer and everything is room temperature. 3. Re-ran error code retrieval and got E68.- stuck button (but operating buttons does not reveal an obviously stuck button) 4. Ran diagnostic tests. The first test with the heater running displaying the temperature failed - dryer temp only rose about 5 degrees in 10 minutes. All other tests seem to pass, including the button test. I am trying to determine whee to start on fixing this. Some questions come to mind... 1. Could the e68 be a false positive? 2. If a button was stuck, could it cause the unit to fail the heater test? 3. Could a faulty control panel cause the unit to fail the heater test? 4. What are the odds that the problem is a) a stuck button, b) the control panel, c) the heating unit. Thanks for any help...
You will nee The error code E68 is a stuck button error code. I recommend checking each button to make sure it loose in the plastic console. The button should rock side to side a little bit. If all the buttons are loose you can try to reset the unit control by unplugging the dryer for two minutes. If the error code comes back you will need to replace the unit control.
Cannot figure out how to make this the solution...
Fixed this myself. - it was the heating element.
Downloaded the service manual from this linkhttps://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5If-wTg...
It has the error codes, but more importantly, it has wiring diagrams, instructions for taking the dryer apart, and troubleshooting flowcharts. I followed the flowchart for "dryer does not heat, but motor runs". The whole process probably took one hour. Dis-assembly, repair, and re-assembly probably took another 1-2 hours, but some of that was due to an initial bad re-stringing job (see below).
To follow the flowcharts, you will need a multimeter or an ohmmeter and a voltmeter, You will need a medium philips head screwdriver to get the dryer apart. Note that when you are testing voltage drop (google testing voltage drop if you don't know what this is) across the terminals of the high-limit thermostat on the heating element housing, you need to be careful not to touch the terminal block where the power cord enters the Dryer at the same time you are physically touching the cabinet or you may get a strong shock (trust me!). By the way - you should check the chamber in the dorr below the lint trap before reassembly...mine had a huge wad of lint in it.
When I completed the flowchart the result was"bad heating element", and when I took out the drum and tested continuity through the heating element, there was none. When I touched the element,, it was brittle and broke.
You can buy a replacement unit with the heat shield (metal pan that it sits in) and coil for about $60-$70, or just the coil for about $25. You may have to call around to find a parts place with either item in stock. When I saw how the coil was attached (very simple). I opted for the coil only (called a "restring") as it was cheaper and less work to replace. Got it locally for $25. Took about 10 minutes to put it in and then about 20 minutes to put the dyer back together (not counting my fumbling with the bad restringing job.. Follow the directions int the package with the coil for how to string the coil on the insulating clips. I did not realize there *were* instructions, and just tossed it on. When I put the drum back in and tested it, I had an awful screeching friction noise. I eventually realized that the gap between the drum and the coil is pretty small, and I had a bulge in one section of the coil; following the instructions probably would have avoided this. I just redistributed the coil over the insulating clips and twisted a few sections in tthe direction of the coiling (clockwise?) until everything appeared flat. Then the noise went Away and I dried my first load of laundry in 2 days. Good luck!
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SOURCE: Our dryer is beeping and
I found via a Google search that E68 means one of the keys is jammed. Looking at it, it was pretty obvious which one, so I pushed it in and re-centered it in its casing. That did the trick.
SOURCE: Frigidaire Dryer not drying clothes properly
TRY DISCONECTING THE VENTING FROM THE BACK OF THE DRYER THEN RUNNING IT .POSSABLE THE OUTSIDE FLAPPER STUCK?IM THINKING NOT THE DRYER. GOOD LUCK!
If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dude_653d05454b389bba
SOURCE: Error Code E68 stuck button?
control boards for this model are as low as $146.00 on ebay, although the code 68 "button stuck " issues 's I've found have been the start button switch ,found one at the local electronic store[close to what's on the board , but not exact !] for $3.99 fixed one for a customer of mine [just to see if that was indeed the problem]. Been running for the last year so far
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Richard..thanks for the help. I am a bit suspicious of the button stuck diagnosis, only because all of the buttons seem to work fine, and the unit passes the key test in the diagnostic tests.
Can a stuck button prevent the heater from coming on?
I have done a continuity test on the high limit thermostat and the thermal limiter, and both seem fine. I was going to try testing the continuity through the heater element next to see if it seemed to be broken.
Fixed this myself. - it was the heating element. Downloaded the service manual from this linkhttps://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5If-wTg... It has the error codes, but more importantly, it has wiring diagrams, instructions for taking the dryer apart, and troubleshooting flowcharts. I followed the flowchart for "dryer does not heat, but motor runs". The whole process probably took one hour. Dis-assembly, repair, and re-assembly probably took another 1-2 hours, but some of that was due to an initial bad re-stringing job
(see below). To follow the flowcharts, you will need a multimeter or an ohmmeter and a voltmeter, You will need a medium philips head screwdriver to get the dryer apart. Note that when you are testing voltage drop (google testing voltage drop if you don't know what this is) across the terminals of the high-limit thermostat on the heating element housing, you need to be careful not to touch the terminal block where the power cord enters the Dryer at the same time you are physically touching the cabinet or you may get a strong shock (trust me!). By the way - you should check the chamber in the dorr below the lint trap before reassembly...mine had a huge wad of lint in it. When I completed the flowchart the result was"bad heating element", and when I took out the drum and tested continuity through the heating element, there was none. When I touched the element,, it was brittle and broke. You can buy a replacement unit with the heat shield (metal pan that it sits in) and coil for about $60-$70, or just the coil for about $25. You may have to call around to find a parts place with either item in stock. When I saw how the coil was attached (very simple). I opted for the coil only (called a "restring") as it was cheaper and less work to replace. Got it locally for $25. Took about 10 minutes to put it in and then about 20 minutes to put the dyer back together (not counting my fumbling with the bad restringing job.. Follow the directions int the package with the coil for how to string the coil on the insulating clips. I did not realize there *were* instructions, and just tossed it on. When I put the drum back in and tested it, I had an awful screeching friction noise. I eventually realized that the gap between the drum and the coil is pretty small, and I had a bulge in one section of the coil; following the instructions probably would have avoided this. I just redistributed the coil over the insulating clips and twisted a few sections in tthe direction of the coiling (clockwise?) until everything appeared flat. Then the noise went Away and I dried my first load of laundry in 2 days. Good luck!
Apr 19, 2012
Cannot figure out how to make this the solution... Fixed this myself. - it was the heating element. Downloaded the service manual from this linkhttps://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5If-wTg... It has the error codes, but more importantly, it has wiring diagrams, instructions for taking the dryer apart, and troubleshooting flowcharts. I followed the flowchart for "dryer does not heat, but motor runs". The whole process probably took one hour. Dis-assembly, repair, and re-assembly probably took another 1-2 hours, but some of that was due to an initial bad re-stringing job (see below). To follow the flowcharts, you will need a multimeter or an ohmmeter and a voltmeter, You will need a medium philips head screwdriver to get the dryer apart. Note that when you are testing voltage drop (google testing voltage drop if you don't know what this is) across the terminals of the high-limit thermostat on the heating element housing, you need to be careful not to touch the terminal block where the power cord enters the Dryer at the same time you are physically touching the cabinet or you may get a strong shock (trust me!). By the way - you should check the chamber in the dorr below the lint trap before reassembly...mine had a huge wad of lint in it. When I completed the flowchart the result was"bad heating element", and when I took out the drum and tested continuity through the heating element, there was none. When I touched the element,, it was brittle and broke. You can buy a replacement unit with the heat shield (metal pan that it sits in) and coil for about $60-$70, or just the coil for about $25. You may have to call around to find a parts place with either item in stock. When I saw how the coil was attached (very simple). I opted for the coil only (called a "restring") as it was cheaper and less work to replace. Got it locally for $25. Took about 10 minutes to put it in and then about 20 minutes to put the dyer back together (not counting my fumbling with the bad restringing job.. Follow the directions int the package with the coil for how to string the coil on the insulating clips. I did not realize there *were* instructions, and just tossed it on. When I put the drum back in and tested it, I had an awful screeching friction noise. I eventually realized that the gap between the drum and the coil is pretty small, and I had a bulge in one section of the coil; following the instructions probably would have avoided this. I just redistributed the coil over the insulating clips and twisted a few sections in tthe direction of the coiling (clockwise?) until everything appeared flat. Then the noise went Away and I dried my first load of laundry in 2 days. Good luck!
Apr 19, 2012
Cannot figure out how to make this the solution... Fixed this myself. - it was the heating element. Downloaded the service manual from this linkhttps://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5If-wTg... It has the error codes, but more importantly, it has wiring diagrams, instructions for taking the dryer apart, and troubleshooting flowcharts. I followed the flowchart for "dryer does not heat, but motor runs". The whole process probably took one hour. Dis-assembly, repair, and re-assembly probably took another 1-2 hours, but some of that was due to an initial bad re-stringing job (see below). To follow the flowcharts, you will need a multimeter or an ohmmeter and a voltmeter, You will need a medium philips head screwdriver to get the dryer apart. Note that when you are testing voltage drop (google testing voltage drop if you don't know what this is) across the terminals of the high-limit thermostat on the heating element housing, you need to be careful not to touch the terminal block where the power cord enters the Dryer at the same time you are physically touching the cabinet or you may get a strong shock (trust me!). By the way - you should check the chamber in the dorr below the lint trap before reassembly...mine had a huge wad of lint in it. When I completed the flowchart the result was"bad heating element", and when I took out the drum and tested continuity through the heating element, there was none. When I touched the element,, it was brittle and broke. You can buy a replacement unit with the heat shield (metal pan that it sits in) and coil for about $60-$70, or just the coil for about $25. You may have to call around to find a parts place with either item in stock. When I saw how the coil was attached (very simple). I opted for the coil only (called a "restring") as it was cheaper and less work to replace. Got it locally for $25. Took about 10 minutes to put it in and then about 20 minutes to put the dyer back together (not counting my fumbling with the bad restringing job.. Follow the directions int the package with the coil for how to string the coil on the insulating clips. I did not realize there *were* instructions, and just tossed it on. When I put the drum back in and tested it, I had an awful screeching friction noise. I eventually realized that the gap between the drum and the coil is pretty small, and I had a bulge in one section of the coil; following the instructions probably would have avoided this. I just redistributed the coil over the insulating clips and twisted a few sections in tthe direction of the coiling (clockwise?) until everything appeared flat. Then the noise went Away and I dried my first load of laundry in 2 days. Good luck!
Apr 19, 2012
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