My lcd screen is cracked. Please can anyone tell me where I can purchase a replacement screen. The camera is still under warranty but Casio want over £100.00 just to replace the screen. Please can anyone help. Thank you.
In an earlier post I requested help with obtaining a replacement lcd screen for my camera. I incorrectly typed in the Model number.
The camera is a Casio EX-Z120 and not EZ120 as entered in my original post.
Also, since I have not undertaken such a repair before although I'm very adapt with my hands, can anyone advise me of the procedure and "what, if any," pitfalls to avoid or look out for.
I'm aware that there are sensitive electronic components inside and the need to ground my body to discharge any static electricity, but I'm more concerned about what type of connections I may have to remove and how best to achieve this.In an earlier post I requested help with obtaining a replacement lcd screen for my camera. I incorrectly typed in the Model number.
The camera is a Casio EX-Z120 and not EZ120 as entered in my original post.
Also, since I have not undertaken such a repair before although I'm very adapt with my hands, can anyone advise me of the procedure and "what, if any," pitfalls to avoid or look out for.
I'm aware that there are sensitive electronic components inside and the need to ground my body to discharge any static electricity, but I'm more concerned about what type of connections I may have to remove and how best to achieve this.
I do apologise for the long-windedness of the following article, but it simply isn't possible to describe the process of replacing the LCD screen on this camera in just a few sentences without leaving out essential information for inexperienced would-be technicians.
For experienced technicians, most of this will be straight forward, but I have included as much detail as necessary in the event that if someone with little experience of carrying out these types of repairs decides to go ahead anyway and try to fix it themselves, then at least there is some form of structure for them to follow, especially if things don't quite go to plan. It's always better to have a system or plan of action rather than working in the dark so to speak, or a plan to fall back on if things go wrong rather than have no plan at all.
Just to clear up a slight but what can be a costly misunderstanding here. Before you go ordering a replacement lcd screen for your digital camera, do make sure that the actual lcd is damaged beyond repair and not the outer protective glass window. Several owners I've spoken to recently have assumed that because the glass window is scratched or cracked then they have needed to purchase a new lcd screen. Not necessarily so. If it's just the glass window that's damaged, then the cost of replacing that may be infinately less expensive than ordering an lcd screen on the premise that this will fix the problem, which it won't of course and you may end up replacing the lcd unnecessarily and still end up with a scratched, cracked or damaged screen. Sounds silly I know, but we do make these simple mistakes from time to time.
Initially when I contacted Casio about the cracked screen, they were quite insistent that the camera had to be returned to them for the repair to be carried out. The response I got was that the repair could cost anything between £90 & £130 or $175 to $253 dollars depending on the damage they found. I was confident that only the LCD Screen was damaged hence I resorted to trying to resolve the problem myself.
Casio didn't volunteer the information that spare parts were available and eventually I tracked that department down. I purchased a replacement LCD screen from them costing around £70.00 or ($136.00 dollars). Even so, they still tried to persuade me to send the camera in for repair which I declined to do.
For the benefit of any user who is contemplating this repair to the lcd screen on this "particular" camera, you will need a small 15 to 25 watt Soldering Iron, solder of course, and be adept at using one, otherwise unless you have a friend who is suitably skilled, I would seriously ask you to consider having the repair carried out by some competent person other than yourself. It really is quite tricky.
You will also need a set of small gauge Cross-Point Screwdrivers similar to what watchmakers would use and the set must contain a: No.0 gauge, (that's size Number Zero Cross-Point screwdriver).
Also have handy, a small bright torch or directable work lamp. You'll see why later.
I received the replacement screen within 5 days.
Before commencing to dismantle the rear cover of the camera:
(a) Remove any batteries. (b) Remove SD Card. (c) As a precaution, I grounded my body to earth via a wrist strap to remove any static electricity which potentially could damage the delicate and sensitive electronic parts inside the camera. If anyone advises you that this isn't necessary, regardless of whether you're working on a PC, a Camera or any other electronic device, then consult any good service technician and you will be advised to take this precautionary measure. The choice is yours !!!
Important: Draw a rough diagram of the camera. You'll need to have 3 diagrams as shown by referring to pictures 2, 3 & 4 below. The reason for this is because some of the screws are different lengths and unless you mark or record accurately which screw comes from which hole etc., you run the risk of nearly completing the repair only to find that the last screw or two left to fit are either too short or too long for the holes, and you'll then have to start all over again. There's no way of telling which screw is meant for which hole just by looking, so please, save yourself a headache.
The Replacement procedure. In the event that any other user has by necessity to remove the rear cover of this camera to undertake any repairs, I have detailed the procedure as accurately as possible as there are several points to look out for to make the process easier.
This involved removing 6 small (sometimes referred to as): "Cross-Point, Philips or Star Head screws. Please refer to attached pictures. The quality of the pics are moderate to say the least as they were taken using a Mobile Phone Camera: The Sony Ericsson K800i but they will suffice for the purpose.
Picture (1) Looking at the camera as if viewing the lcd screen, there are no screws, switches, labels or otherwise to remove from the "fascia" of the rear cover which surrounds the lcd screen in order to remove it from the camera. The screws that must be removed are on the bottom and the 2 ends of the camera.(see below)
Picture (2) Looking at the Left-hand End of the camera (Opposite end from the shutter switch), only the 1 screw indicated by the arrow needs to be removed.
Picture (3) Looking at the right-hand End, only the 3 screws indicated by the arrows need to be removed.
Picture (4) Looking at the bottom of the camera, only the 2 screws indicated by the arrows need to be removed.
Once the screws are removed, the rear cover is more easily removed by easing the cover up, starting at the bottom right-hand side indicated by the Red Arrow (1) just where the cover butts against the SD Card slot and the Battery Compartment underneath on the bottom of the camera Gently prise the cover away from the case all the way up to the Camera mode Selector switch as indicated by red arrows (1), (2), (3) & (4) until the entire right-hand side of the cover is detached from the camera case.
From this point, you could easily be fooled into thinking that there is some other screw etc., still holding the remainder of the cover onto the camera, but there isn't. It is just a very snug tight fit, so you have to proceed carefully and ease the rest of the cover off until it is detached completely.
Do take care though, as there is a Copper Connector Strip running from the back of the Camera Mode Selector switch attached to the rear cover which you are removing which runs into, and connects to the main circuit board within the camera, so don't just pull the cover away carelessly, else you could easily damage the strip.
From here on, it is nigh on impossible to work effectively on the camera as the copper connector strip is too short to remove the cover out of your way, so I suggest you remove it. It can only be removed from where it plugs into the main circuit board and not from the Camera Mode Selector switch.
The socket where the strip connects into is tiny, and it is not apparent at first if you are unfamiliar with this type of connection how to unplug and remove the strip. A magnifying glass is helpful if your sight is not 100%.
*** Reference (1)*** How to remove the connector strip. ~ On the top of the socket, you will see what simply looks like a little black stip barely 1/2 an inch long, it may be grey or black, whatever. Taking a very small slot screwdriver or a thin bladed knife, gently prise the black or grey cover upwards as if opening the lid of a box.
Be careful not to dig the point of the screwdriver or knife into the copper strip when your doing this. The cover or lid pops up as if on hinges and when up, releases its grip on the strip connector which can then be easily pulled out of the socket. Once you've done this, you can then remove the camera cover completely out of the way so you can get better access to carry out the remainder of your repair procedure.
From here on in, the description relative to dismantling further components, refers "only" to replacing the lcd screen and nothing else.
The lcd screen is housed within a light square "metal" frame attached to the main body of the camera. In the centre of each side of the metal frame holding the screen in place, there are small metal protrusions which act as clips to keep the lcd firmly in place. They are springy in nature and can be gently pushed backwards with a small screwdriver away from the edge of each side of the glass lcd cover.
As if this isn't enough, the entire lcd screen is also fixed to the base underneath with adhesive at each corner, and again sufficient enough to make you think that there is either a screw or some other form of attachment still holding the screen down to the base of the screen housing, but there isn't.
You need 2 very small slot screwdrivers here. 1 to push the clips back off the edge of the lcd screen, and the other to gently prise it enough under the screen to lift it, or dare I say force it away from the adhesive underneath. You then have to work your way all around each side of the screen repeating this until it is detached completely from the housing base underneath and free of the clips.
It's tricky and fiddley too, but as the screen is already damaged, don't be too concerned about damaging it further. What you have to watch out for is that when you're prising it away from the base, you don't damage the edges of the metal-framed housing.
Once you get this far, your next job then is to unsolder the 2 wires, (1 red and 1 blue) which connect the lcd screen to the main circuit board. """Please""" ~ draw a small diagram and do note down which coloured wire goes where in case you forget when reconnecting your new lcd screen. Connecting them the wrong way round will almost certainly have disasterous consequences when you turn your camera back on.
Before you do unsolder the 2 wires, make sure your soldering iron has been on for at least 10 minutes as some of the modern lightweight soldering irons can take several minutes to reach the correct temperature to effectively melt the solder. Electronic components are easily damaged by exposure to prolonged even moderate heat, and if your soldering iron hasn't reached its' optimum temperature, many people make the mistake of continuing to hold the point of the iron on the connection in the hope that the solder will eventually melt, which it does, but often at the cost having transferred enough heat in the meantime through the connection to damage the sensitive electronic component attached on the other side.
You should only need to hold the point of the iron on the connection for approximately 2 seconds and the solder should melt sufficient for you to remove the wires. A small pair of pointed-nose pliers are helpful here just to lightly grip each of the wires in turn as you unsolder them and pull them clear of the solder connection. Once you have done this, do use a damp cloth and wipe the traces of old solder from the end of your soldering iron. You do not want any of the old solder contaminating the new joints when you reconnect your new screen wires.
Also attached to the lcd screen is another copper connector strip, the other end of which disappears into a recess deeper within the main body of the camera and underneath the main circuit board.
Do not try to pull the copper strip out by force. The only way is to follow the same procedure as that given earlier in: ~ *** Reference (1)*** above but before you can do that, you must first remove the 2 screws securing the main circuit board to the body of the camera.
The first screw is located near the lower right-hand side of the circuit board and secures only the circuit board. The 2nd. screw is located near the upper right-hand side and secures an earth tag as well as securing the circuit board. Both of these have to be removed. Again, take note of which screw goes where.
Next, where you see the copper connector strip go under the circuit board, gently prise that edge of the board up until you locate the connector strip socket and again lift the little cover and pull the strip out. You're now reay to fit the new lcd.
Be careful when handling your new lcd that you don't smudge the glass covers with fingerprints. Either grip it by its edges or use light gauge surgical or similar type gloves. If you haven't got those, then do make sure you use a "lint free" cloth as most other types of cloth material will be embodied with dust and other particals which because of static electricity will immediately attach themselves to the glass covers of your new screen.
Reassembly is then an exact reverse of the dismantling procedure, and this is where you will find the torch referred to in the beginning essential. Even in a brightly lit room, because the circuit board cannot be lifted very far above the frame it is secured to because of so many other electical connections, you will find that it acts as a shield from the light in your workspace, so a small torch is best so you can direct the light under the circuit board in order to correctly locate and reconnect the new copper strip from your new lcd. Don't forget to close down the lid on the socket to lock the strip firmly in place otherwise it will slip out easily.
Next. You will have noticed that the lcd strip is rather longer than actually necessary, and to ensure that the rear cover can be refitted, it is necessary to fold the strip in two exactly the same as the original so that the excess can slip underneath the circuit board out of the way. If you don't do this, the rear cover "will not" fit back on. Fold it as described, and don't try to twist or manipulate it in any other way otherwise you will only damage it rendering the whole repair procedure null and void.
Don't use pliers to create the fold in the strip, use only light pressure with your fingers to creat a soft bend rather than a definate crease in the strip.
Do remember to refix the earth tag on the circuit board when refitting the screws.
Now you can solder the new wires back on to the ciruit board bearing in mind which colour goes where. Do try to keep the amount of solder you use to an absolute minimum, but don't just solder the wires onto the existing connections relying on the existing solder to make a good connection. This often leads to what is referred to as: "dry joints" = poor connections with subsequent consequences, so do use a small amount of new solder.
If you find this too fiddley, get someone to hold the wire onto its appropriate connection whilst you use the soldering iron in 1 hand and apply the new solder with the other.
Next. Gentle manouvre the new screen into its metal framed housing ensuring that the clips engage with the edge of each side of the screen glass. The adhesive underneath will still be sticky enough to hold the screen firmly down against the base of the metal housing once you have pushed it home gently.
After this, reconnect the copper connector strip from the rear cover back into its corresponding socket on the top of the circuit board. Again, do make sure the lid on the socket is closed properly.
Now you can gently begin to manouvre the rear cover back on starting from the left-hand side and working towards the right-hand side and reinsert the screws as per your diagram of which screw goes where.
I wish you good luck !
Jock Snow.I do apologise for the long-windedness of the following article, but it simply isn't possible to describe the process of replacing the LCD screen on this camera in just a few sentences without leaving out essential information for inexperienced would-be technicians.
For experienced technicians, most of this will be straight forward, but I have included as much detail as necessary in the event that if someone with little experience of carrying out these types of repairs decides to go ahead anyway and try to fix it themselves, then at least there is some form of structure for them to follow, especially if things don't quite go to plan. It's always better to have a system or plan of action rather than working in the dark so to speak, or a plan to fall back on if things go wrong rather than have no plan at all.
Just to clear up a slight but what can be a costly misunderstanding here. Before you go ordering a replacement lcd screen for your digital camera, do make sure that the actual lcd is damaged beyond repair and not the outer protective glass window. Several owners I've spoken to recently have assumed that because the glass window is scratched or cracked then they have needed to purchase a new lcd screen. Not necessarily so. If it's just the glass window that's damaged, then the cost of replacing that may be infinately less expensive than ordering an lcd screen on the premise that this will fix the problem, which it won't of course and you may end up replacing the lcd unnecessarily and still end up with a scratched, cracked or damaged screen. Sounds silly I know, but we do make these simple mistakes from time to time.
Initially when I contacted Casio about the cracked screen, they were quite insistent that the camera had to be returned to them for the repair to be carried out. The response I got was that the repair could cost anything between £90 & £130 or $175 to $253 dollars depending on the damage they found. I was confident that only the LCD Screen was damaged hence I resorted to trying to resolve the problem myself.
Casio didn't volunteer the information that spare parts were available and eventually I tracked that department down. I purchased a replacement LCD screen from them costing around £70.00 or ($136.00 dollars). Even so, they still tried to persuade me to send the camera in for repair which I declined to do.
For the benefit of any user who is contemplating this repair to the lcd screen on this "particular" camera, you will need a small 15 to 25 watt Soldering Iron, solder of course, and be adept at using one, otherwise unless you have a friend who is suitably skilled, I would seriously ask you to consider having the repair carried out by some competent person other than yourself. It really is quite tricky.
You will also need a set of small gauge Cross-Point Screwdrivers similar to what watchmakers would use and the set must contain a:
No.0 gauge, (that's size Number Zero Cross-Point screwdriver).
Also have handy, a small bright torch or directable work lamp. You'll see why later.
I received the replacement screen within 5 days.
Before commencing to dismantle the rear cover of the camera:
(a) Remove any batteries.
(b) Remove SD Card.
(c) As a precaution, I grounded my body to earth via a wrist
strap to remove any static electricity which potentially
could damage the delicate and sensitive electronic parts
inside the camera. If anyone advises you that this isn't
necessary, regardless of whether you're working on a PC,
a Camera or any other electronic device, then consult any
good service technician and you will be advised to take
this precautionary measure. The choice is yours !!!
Important: Draw a rough diagram of the camera. You'll need to have 3 diagrams as shown by referring to pictures 2, 3 & 4 below. The reason for this is because some of the screws are different lengths and unless you mark or record accurately which screw comes from which hole etc., you run the risk of nearly completing the repair only to find that the last screw or two left to fit are either too short or too long for the holes, and you'll then have to start all over again. There's no way of telling which screw is meant for which hole just by looking, so please, save yourself a headache.
The Replacement procedure. In the event that any other user has by necessity to remove the rear cover of this camera to undertake any repairs, I have detailed the procedure as accurately as possible as there are several points to look out for to make the process easier.
This involved removing 6 small (sometimes referred to as): "Cross-Point, Philips or Star Head screws. Please refer to attached pictures. The quality of the pics are moderate to say the least as they were taken using a Mobile Phone Camera: The Sony Ericsson K800i but they will suffice for the purpose.
Picture (1) Looking at the camera as if viewing the lcd screen, there are no screws, switches, labels or otherwise to remove from the "fascia" of the rear cover which surrounds the lcd screen in order to remove it from the camera. The screws that must be removed are on the bottom and the 2 ends of the camera.(see below)
Picture (2) Looking at the Left-hand End of the camera (Opposite end from the shutter switch), only the 1 screw indicated by the arrow needs to be removed.
Picture (3) Looking at the right-hand End, only the 3 screws indicated by the arrows need to be removed.
Picture (4) Looking at the bottom of the camera, only the 2 screws indicated by the arrows need to be removed.
Once the screws are removed, the rear cover is more easily removed by easing the cover up, starting at the bottom right-hand side indicated by the Red Arrow (1) just where the cover butts against the SD Card slot and the Battery Compartment underneath on the bottom of the camera Gently prise the cover away from the case all the way up to the Camera mode Selector switch as indicated by red arrows (1), (2), (3) & (4) until the entire right-hand side of the cover is detached from the camera case.
From this point, you could easily be fooled into thinking that there is some other screw etc., still holding the remainder of the cover onto the camera, but there isn't. It is just a very snug tight fit, so you have to proceed carefully and ease the rest of the cover off until it is detached completely.
Do take care though, as there is a Copper Connector Strip running from the back of the Camera Mode Selector switch attached to the rear cover which you are removing which runs into, and connects to the main circuit board within the camera, so don't just pull the cover away carelessly, else you could easily damage the strip.
From here on, it is nigh on impossible to work effectively on the camera as the copper connector strip is too short to remove the cover out of your way, so I suggest you remove it. It can only be removed from where it plugs into the main circuit board and not from the Camera Mode Selector switch.
The socket where the strip connects into is tiny, and it is not apparent at first if you are unfamiliar with this type of connection how to unplug and remove the strip. A magnifying glass is helpful if your sight is not 100%.
*** Reference (1)***
How to remove the connector strip. ~ On the top of the socket, you will see what simply looks like a little black stip barely 1/2 an inch long, it may be grey or black, whatever. Taking a very small slot screwdriver or a thin bladed knife, gently prise the black or grey cover upwards as if opening the lid of a box.
Be careful not to dig the point of the screwdriver or knife into the copper strip when your doing this. The cover or lid pops up as if on hinges and when up, releases its grip on the strip connector which can then be easily pulled out of the socket. Once you've done this, you can then remove the camera cover completely out of the way so you can get better access to carry out the remainder of your repair procedure.
From here on in, the description relative to dismantling further components, refers "only" to replacing the lcd screen and nothing else.
The lcd screen is housed within a light square "metal" frame attached to the main body of the camera. In the centre of each side of the metal frame holding the screen in place, there are small metal protrusions which act as clips to keep the lcd firmly in place. They are springy in nature and can be gently pushed backwards with a small screwdriver away from the edge of each side of the glass lcd cover.
As if this isn't enough, the entire lcd screen is also fixed to the base underneath with adhesive at each corner, and again sufficient enough to make you think that there is either a screw or some other form of attachment still holding the screen down to the base of the screen housing, but there isn't.
You need 2 very small slot screwdrivers here. 1 to push the clips back off the edge of the lcd screen, and the other to gently prise it enough under the screen to lift it, or dare I say force it away from the adhesive underneath. You then have to work your way all around each side of the screen repeating this until it is detached completely from the housing base underneath and free of the clips.
It's tricky and fiddley too, but as the screen is already damaged, don't be too concerned about damaging it further. What you have to watch out for is that when you're prising it away from the base, you don't damage the edges of the metal-framed housing.
Once you get this far, your next job then is to unsolder the 2 wires, (1 red and 1 blue) which connect the lcd screen to the main circuit board. """Please""" ~ draw a small diagram and do note down which coloured wire goes where in case you forget when reconnecting your new lcd screen. Connecting them the wrong way round will almost certainly have disasterous consequences when you turn your camera back on.
Before you do unsolder the 2 wires, make sure your soldering iron has been on for at least 10 minutes as some of the modern lightweight soldering irons can take several minutes to reach the correct temperature to effectively melt the solder. Electronic components are easily damaged by exposure to prolonged even moderate heat, and if your soldering iron hasn't reached its' optimum temperature, many people make the mistake of continuing to hold the point of the iron on the connection in the hope that the solder will eventually melt, which it does, but often at the cost having transferred enough heat in the meantime through the connection to damage the sensitive electronic component attached on the other side.
You should only need to hold the point of the iron on the connection for approximately 2 seconds and the solder should melt sufficient for you to remove the wires. A small pair of pointed-nose pliers are helpful here just to lightly grip each of the wires in turn as you unsolder them and pull them clear of the solder connection. Once you have done this, do use a damp cloth and wipe the traces of old solder from the end of your soldering iron. You do not want any of the old solder contaminating the new joints when you reconnect your new screen wires.
Also attached to the lcd screen is another copper connector strip, the other end of which disappears into a recess deeper within the main body of the camera and underneath the main circuit board.
Do not try to pull the copper strip out by force. The only way is to follow the same procedure as that given earlier in: ~
*** Reference (1)*** above but before you can do that, you must first remove the 2 screws securing the main circuit board to the body of the camera.
The first screw is located near the lower right-hand side of the circuit board and secures only the circuit board. The 2nd. screw is located near the upper right-hand side and secures an earth tag as well as securing the circuit board. Both of these have to be removed. Again, take note of which screw goes where.
Next, where you see the copper connector strip go under the circuit board, gently prise that edge of the board up until you locate the connector strip socket and again lift the little cover and pull the strip out. You're now reay to fit the new lcd.
Be careful when handling your new lcd that you don't smudge the glass covers with fingerprints. Either grip it by its edges or use light gauge surgical or similar type gloves. If you haven't got those, then do make sure you use a "lint free" cloth as most other types of cloth material will be embodied with dust and other particals which because of static electricity will immediately attach themselves to the glass covers of your new screen.
Reassembly is then an exact reverse of the dismantling procedure, and this is where you will find the torch referred to in the beginning essential. Even in a brightly lit room, because the circuit board cannot be lifted very far above the frame it is secured to because of so many other electical connections, you will find that it acts as a shield from the light in your workspace, so a small torch is best so you can direct the light under the circuit board in order to correctly locate and reconnect the new copper strip from your new lcd. Don't forget to close down the lid on the socket to lock the strip firmly in place otherwise it will slip out easily.
Next. You will have noticed that the lcd strip is rather longer than actually necessary, and to ensure that the rear cover can be refitted, it is necessary to fold the strip in two exactly the same as the original so that the excess can slip underneath the circuit board out of the way. If you don't do this, the rear cover "will not" fit back on. Fold it as described, and don't try to twist or manipulate it in any other way otherwise you will only damage it rendering the whole repair procedure null and void.
Don't use pliers to create the fold in the strip, use only light pressure with your fingers to creat a soft bend rather than a definate crease in the strip.
Do remember to refix the earth tag on the circuit board when refitting the screws.
Now you can solder the new wires back on to the ciruit board bearing in mind which colour goes where. Do try to keep the amount of solder you use to an absolute minimum, but don't just solder the wires onto the existing connections relying on the existing solder to make a good connection. This often leads to what is referred to as: "dry joints" = poor connections with subsequent consequences, so do use a small amount of new solder.
If you find this too fiddley, get someone to hold the wire onto its appropriate connection whilst you use the soldering iron in 1 hand and apply the new solder with the other.
Next. Gentle manouvre the new screen into its metal framed housing ensuring that the clips engage with the edge of each side of the screen glass. The adhesive underneath will still be sticky enough to hold the screen firmly down against the base of the metal housing once you have pushed it home gently.
After this, reconnect the copper connector strip from the rear cover back into its corresponding socket on the top of the circuit board. Again, do make sure the lid on the socket is closed properly.
Now you can gently begin to manouvre the rear cover back on starting from the left-hand side and working towards the right-hand side and reinsert the screws as per your diagram of which screw goes where.
I wish you good luck !
Jock Snow.
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There is a company in new york that carries parts for small digitial cameras : <a rel='nofollow' href=http://www.portatronics.com>Camera Repair NYC</a>
there is a company in new york that carries parts for small digitial cameras : Camera Repair NYCthere is a company in new york that carries parts for small digitial cameras : Camera Repair NYC
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Hello Brandi.Here's you replacement LCd screen. http://cgi.ebay.com/CASIO-EXILIM-EX-Z77-LCD-SCREEN-PARTS-%2F-REPAIR_W0QQitemZ250330962465QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20081124?IMSfp=TL081124134001r12156 See ebay has all you ever need.
If you can't see the image at all after taking it then you will have to have the lcd screen replaced. You can send it into Casio and have it repaired if it is still under warranty or you can see if you can find someone else to replace it cheaper than what Casio would charge you.
If it is simply a crack and other wize still OK Best way is to go to a photo store and purchase lcd screen protector film or heavy duty transparent repair tape[camping store]
Taking a camera apart is no easy task unless your are used to fine instruments and reassembling them ditto Buying spares new is a nono usually .Secondhand -well its a gamble isn't it? If you can find the model you want and if it is in good nick.
You will actually have to replace the screen, so you know the screen's on the camera are VERY sensitive, even just pressing your thumb against it can cause this to happen. You can either get a new LCD and replace it yourself by calling this number: 1-800-223-2001, or can send it in and get it repaired at: 1-800-706-2534, option 1. If its less then a year old it more then likely wont be covered under the warranty though.
In an earlier post I requested help with obtaining a replacement lcd screen for my camera. I incorrectly typed in the Model number.
The camera is a Casio EX-Z120 and not EZ120 as entered in my original post.
Also, since I have not undertaken such a repair before although I'm very adapt with my hands, can anyone advise me of the procedure and "what, if any," pitfalls to avoid or look out for.
I'm aware that there are sensitive electronic components inside and the need to ground my body to discharge any static electricity, but I'm more concerned about what type of connections I may have to remove and how best to achieve this.
I do apologise for the long-windedness of the following article, but it simply isn't possible to describe the process of replacing the LCD screen on this camera in just a few sentences without leaving out essential information for inexperienced would-be technicians.
For experienced technicians, most of this will be straight forward, but I have included as much detail as necessary in the event that if someone with little experience of carrying out these types of repairs decides to go ahead anyway and try to fix it themselves, then at least there is some form of structure for them to follow, especially if things don't quite go to plan. It's always better to have a system or plan of action rather than working in the dark so to speak, or a plan to fall back on if things go wrong rather than have no plan at all.
Just to clear up a slight but what can be a costly misunderstanding here. Before you go ordering a replacement lcd screen for your digital camera, do make sure that the actual lcd is damaged beyond repair and not the outer protective glass window. Several owners I've spoken to recently have assumed that because the glass window is scratched or cracked then they have needed to purchase a new lcd screen. Not necessarily so. If it's just the glass window that's damaged, then the cost of replacing that may be infinately less expensive than ordering an lcd screen on the premise that this will fix the problem, which it won't of course and you may end up replacing the lcd unnecessarily and still end up with a scratched, cracked or damaged screen. Sounds silly I know, but we do make these simple mistakes from time to time.
Initially when I contacted Casio about the cracked screen, they were quite insistent that the camera had to be returned to them for the repair to be carried out. The response I got was that the repair could cost anything between £90 & £130 or $175 to $253 dollars depending on the damage they found. I was confident that only the LCD Screen was damaged hence I resorted to trying to resolve the problem myself.
Casio didn't volunteer the information that spare parts were available and eventually I tracked that department down. I purchased a replacement LCD screen from them costing around £70.00 or ($136.00 dollars). Even so, they still tried to persuade me to send the camera in for repair which I declined to do.
For the benefit of any user who is contemplating this repair to the lcd screen on this "particular" camera, you will need a small 15 to 25 watt Soldering Iron, solder of course, and be adept at using one, otherwise unless you have a friend who is suitably skilled, I would seriously ask you to consider having the repair carried out by some competent person other than yourself. It really is quite tricky.
You will also need a set of small gauge Cross-Point Screwdrivers similar to what watchmakers would use and the set must contain a:
No.0 gauge, (that's size Number Zero Cross-Point screwdriver).
Also have handy, a small bright torch or directable work lamp. You'll see why later.
I received the replacement screen within 5 days.
Before commencing to dismantle the rear cover of the camera:
(a) Remove any batteries.
(b) Remove SD Card.
(c) As a precaution, I grounded my body to earth via a wrist
strap to remove any static electricity which potentially
could damage the delicate and sensitive electronic parts
inside the camera. If anyone advises you that this isn't
necessary, regardless of whether you're working on a PC,
a Camera or any other electronic device, then consult any
good service technician and you will be advised to take
this precautionary measure. The choice is yours !!!
Important: Draw a rough diagram of the camera. You'll need to have 3 diagrams as shown by referring to pictures 2, 3 & 4 below. The reason for this is because some of the screws are different lengths and unless you mark or record accurately which screw comes from which hole etc., you run the risk of nearly completing the repair only to find that the last screw or two left to fit are either too short or too long for the holes, and you'll then have to start all over again. There's no way of telling which screw is meant for which hole just by looking, so please, save yourself a headache.
The Replacement procedure. In the event that any other user has by necessity to remove the rear cover of this camera to undertake any repairs, I have detailed the procedure as accurately as possible as there are several points to look out for to make the process easier.
This involved removing 6 small (sometimes referred to as): "Cross-Point, Philips or Star Head screws. Please refer to attached pictures. The quality of the pics are moderate to say the least as they were taken using a Mobile Phone Camera: The Sony Ericsson K800i but they will suffice for the purpose.
Picture (1) Looking at the camera as if viewing the lcd screen, there are no screws, switches, labels or otherwise to remove from the "fascia" of the rear cover which surrounds the lcd screen in order to remove it from the camera. The screws that must be removed are on the bottom and the 2 ends of the camera.(see below)
Picture (2) Looking at the Left-hand End of the camera (Opposite end from the shutter switch), only the 1 screw indicated by the arrow needs to be removed.
Picture (3) Looking at the right-hand End, only the 3 screws indicated by the arrows need to be removed.
Picture (4) Looking at the bottom of the camera, only the 2 screws indicated by the arrows need to be removed.
Once the screws are removed, the rear cover is more easily removed by easing the cover up, starting at the bottom right-hand side indicated by the Red Arrow (1) just where the cover butts against the SD Card slot and the Battery Compartment underneath on the bottom of the camera Gently prise the cover away from the case all the way up to the Camera mode Selector switch as indicated by red arrows (1), (2), (3) & (4) until the entire right-hand side of the cover is detached from the camera case.
From this point, you could easily be fooled into thinking that there is some other screw etc., still holding the remainder of the cover onto the camera, but there isn't. It is just a very snug tight fit, so you have to proceed carefully and ease the rest of the cover off until it is detached completely.
Do take care though, as there is a Copper Connector Strip running from the back of the Camera Mode Selector switch attached to the rear cover which you are removing which runs into, and connects to the main circuit board within the camera, so don't just pull the cover away carelessly, else you could easily damage the strip.
From here on, it is nigh on impossible to work effectively on the camera as the copper connector strip is too short to remove the cover out of your way, so I suggest you remove it. It can only be removed from where it plugs into the main circuit board and not from the Camera Mode Selector switch.
The socket where the strip connects into is tiny, and it is not apparent at first if you are unfamiliar with this type of connection how to unplug and remove the strip. A magnifying glass is helpful if your sight is not 100%.
*** Reference (1)***
How to remove the connector strip. ~ On the top of the socket, you will see what simply looks like a little black stip barely 1/2 an inch long, it may be grey or black, whatever. Taking a very small slot screwdriver or a thin bladed knife, gently prise the black or grey cover upwards as if opening the lid of a box.
Be careful not to dig the point of the screwdriver or knife into the copper strip when your doing this. The cover or lid pops up as if on hinges and when up, releases its grip on the strip connector which can then be easily pulled out of the socket. Once you've done this, you can then remove the camera cover completely out of the way so you can get better access to carry out the remainder of your repair procedure.
From here on in, the description relative to dismantling further components, refers "only" to replacing the lcd screen and nothing else.
The lcd screen is housed within a light square "metal" frame attached to the main body of the camera. In the centre of each side of the metal frame holding the screen in place, there are small metal protrusions which act as clips to keep the lcd firmly in place. They are springy in nature and can be gently pushed backwards with a small screwdriver away from the edge of each side of the glass lcd cover.
As if this isn't enough, the entire lcd screen is also fixed to the base underneath with adhesive at each corner, and again sufficient enough to make you think that there is either a screw or some other form of attachment still holding the screen down to the base of the screen housing, but there isn't.
You need 2 very small slot screwdrivers here. 1 to push the clips back off the edge of the lcd screen, and the other to gently prise it enough under the screen to lift it, or dare I say force it away from the adhesive underneath. You then have to work your way all around each side of the screen repeating this until it is detached completely from the housing base underneath and free of the clips.
It's tricky and fiddley too, but as the screen is already damaged, don't be too concerned about damaging it further. What you have to watch out for is that when you're prising it away from the base, you don't damage the edges of the metal-framed housing.
Once you get this far, your next job then is to unsolder the 2 wires, (1 red and 1 blue) which connect the lcd screen to the main circuit board. """Please""" ~ draw a small diagram and do note down which coloured wire goes where in case you forget when reconnecting your new lcd screen. Connecting them the wrong way round will almost certainly have disasterous consequences when you turn your camera back on.
Before you do unsolder the 2 wires, make sure your soldering iron has been on for at least 10 minutes as some of the modern lightweight soldering irons can take several minutes to reach the correct temperature to effectively melt the solder. Electronic components are easily damaged by exposure to prolonged even moderate heat, and if your soldering iron hasn't reached its' optimum temperature, many people make the mistake of continuing to hold the point of the iron on the connection in the hope that the solder will eventually melt, which it does, but often at the cost having transferred enough heat in the meantime through the connection to damage the sensitive electronic component attached on the other side.
You should only need to hold the point of the iron on the connection for approximately 2 seconds and the solder should melt sufficient for you to remove the wires. A small pair of pointed-nose pliers are helpful here just to lightly grip each of the wires in turn as you unsolder them and pull them clear of the solder connection. Once you have done this, do use a damp cloth and wipe the traces of old solder from the end of your soldering iron. You do not want any of the old solder contaminating the new joints when you reconnect your new screen wires.
Also attached to the lcd screen is another copper connector strip, the other end of which disappears into a recess deeper within the main body of the camera and underneath the main circuit board.
Do not try to pull the copper strip out by force. The only way is to follow the same procedure as that given earlier in: ~
*** Reference (1)*** above but before you can do that, you must first remove the 2 screws securing the main circuit board to the body of the camera.
The first screw is located near the lower right-hand side of the circuit board and secures only the circuit board. The 2nd. screw is located near the upper right-hand side and secures an earth tag as well as securing the circuit board. Both of these have to be removed. Again, take note of which screw goes where.
Next, where you see the copper connector strip go under the circuit board, gently prise that edge of the board up until you locate the connector strip socket and again lift the little cover and pull the strip out. You're now reay to fit the new lcd.
Be careful when handling your new lcd that you don't smudge the glass covers with fingerprints. Either grip it by its edges or use light gauge surgical or similar type gloves. If you haven't got those, then do make sure you use a "lint free" cloth as most other types of cloth material will be embodied with dust and other particals which because of static electricity will immediately attach themselves to the glass covers of your new screen.
Reassembly is then an exact reverse of the dismantling procedure, and this is where you will find the torch referred to in the beginning essential. Even in a brightly lit room, because the circuit board cannot be lifted very far above the frame it is secured to because of so many other electical connections, you will find that it acts as a shield from the light in your workspace, so a small torch is best so you can direct the light under the circuit board in order to correctly locate and reconnect the new copper strip from your new lcd. Don't forget to close down the lid on the socket to lock the strip firmly in place otherwise it will slip out easily.
Next. You will have noticed that the lcd strip is rather longer than actually necessary, and to ensure that the rear cover can be refitted, it is necessary to fold the strip in two exactly the same as the original so that the excess can slip underneath the circuit board out of the way. If you don't do this, the rear cover "will not" fit back on. Fold it as described, and don't try to twist or manipulate it in any other way otherwise you will only damage it rendering the whole repair procedure null and void.
Don't use pliers to create the fold in the strip, use only light pressure with your fingers to creat a soft bend rather than a definate crease in the strip.
Do remember to refix the earth tag on the circuit board when refitting the screws.
Now you can solder the new wires back on to the ciruit board bearing in mind which colour goes where. Do try to keep the amount of solder you use to an absolute minimum, but don't just solder the wires onto the existing connections relying on the existing solder to make a good connection. This often leads to what is referred to as: "dry joints" = poor connections with subsequent consequences, so do use a small amount of new solder.
If you find this too fiddley, get someone to hold the wire onto its appropriate connection whilst you use the soldering iron in 1 hand and apply the new solder with the other.
Next. Gentle manouvre the new screen into its metal framed housing ensuring that the clips engage with the edge of each side of the screen glass. The adhesive underneath will still be sticky enough to hold the screen firmly down against the base of the metal housing once you have pushed it home gently.
After this, reconnect the copper connector strip from the rear cover back into its corresponding socket on the top of the circuit board. Again, do make sure the lid on the socket is closed properly.
Now you can gently begin to manouvre the rear cover back on starting from the left-hand side and working towards the right-hand side and reinsert the screws as per your diagram of which screw goes where.
I wish you good luck !
Jock Snow.
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