Intermatic T101 - 24 Hr. Dial Time Switch - NEMA 1 Indoor Steel Case - Gray Logo
vivian harriett Posted on Apr 12, 2012
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Is there a punch out on back of box for wires

I need a new timer. on my old unit wires come thru back of box. i see on the new ones 2 punch outs at bottom of box for wires. is there also a punch for wiring thru the back of box !

1 Answer

Anonymous

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  • Master 565 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 14, 2012
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Joined: Jan 24, 2009
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Use a 7/8 inch holesaw to drill the hole in the back, but it needs to be in the lower section, not where the timer guts are.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 5 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 01, 2009

SOURCE: I have 4 wires on wall switch red, white, black,

It appears that you should have an ej353 instead of the ej351c. If the switch that you are removing has a red, white, black and copper wire on it, it sounds like you are replacing a 3 way switch. The model ej351c switch is made for a single pole switch and not a three way switch. You can find additional information on how to wire your switch at: http://ec-images.acehardwareoutlet.com/shared/productmanuals/30088manual.pdf

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arealplumber

Better Plumbing

  • 33 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 09, 2008

SOURCE: replacing an old timer with a new gm40.

Here is the instructions for your unit:

Intermatic GM40

Go to page #4 for wiring instructions on 120v dual loads.

Hope this helps and please rate this!

Joel Friedenberg

  • 1114 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 25, 2009

SOURCE: I just installed a new T104M and still have no

Looks like you wired everything up OK on the timer. Using a Multimeter with an AC range of more than 240V, or an AC tester, check for voltage at terminals 3&4. Make sure the clock is set to the on position. You should get a reading. Go down the line to the pump, and check voltage on the pump to make sure there's power from the timer to the pump. If you have voltage from timer to pump, sounds like the pump is not working. If the pump motor has a starting capacitor, it may be that. They are replaceable.
Please be careful with that 240 voltage.

Anonymous

  • 565 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 20, 2010

SOURCE: i have an old intermatic (1983) freeze guard that

There is not a set color code when it comes to that stuff. If the timer is still connected and there is power to it, turn the manual ON/OFF lever inside the timer to the OFF position. Using a volt meter set to at least 240 volts, test the wires. The set of wires that are still hot are the LINE wires.
If the timer has altready been removed, you'll have to _carefully_ separate all the wires so that they aren't touching anything and re-energize the circuit from the breaker. Then test the wires. The 2 wires that are hot after re-energizing the circuit will be the LINE wires.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Mar 04, 2011

SOURCE: the t104 comes new in

277V instructions say:
Move small white motor wires to terminals A and 1
Connect 277 Neutral wire to terminal A
Connect 277 Hot to terminal 1
See illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-104-control-120V-Load-277-400.jpg

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

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I am replacing a programmable timer switch that controls exterior garage lights. This switch is in the same box as a ac switch that turns on the lights inside the garge. There are 3 rolmex wires inside the...

Project is not clear.
Are you replacing the timer with a switch?
I have complete files on timers, so if you are replacing the old timer with a new timer, then add a comment and say which timer you are installing.
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html

You have 3 cables. Assuming 120Volts.
Each cable has 1 black and 1 white and 1 ground.
White wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Ground wires are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
Black wires are next:

(A) Cable A:
One of the three cables will have a black wire that connects to both the switch and to the timer.
So look for the black wire that connects to both switch and to timer.
This is the hot wire from breaker box. Connect this black wire to both switches including new switch.

(B) Cable B: One cable goes to garage lights. Black wire going to garage lights connects to on-off switch.
So the garage light switch has 2 black wires: 1 black wire from cable A, and 1 black wire from cable B going to light.

(C) Cable C: One cable goes to outdoor lights. Black wire going to outdoor lights connects to new on-off switch.
So the outdoor light switch has 2 black wires: 1 black wire from cable A, and 1 black wire from cable B going to light.
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Hi! Please help me. I am having trouble connecting the wires from my dead 220v T104 pool pump timer to a new 220v T104 timer. The old timer had posts marked G 1 2 3 4. The new one has posts marked L 1 X...

Open following link for T104 wiring diagram:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

Your new timer is L 1 X 2, so that is not Intermatic T104.
You might have GE/Tork 15061 that fits into Intermatic box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#GE-replacement
First thing to check is if new timer is 240Volts to match old T104.

If new timer is 240V, then here is crossover:
"Old 1" goes to new L >> and notice that L and 1 are connected by brass bridge. If bridge is missing, add a jumper wire between L and 1 on new timer

"Old 2" goes to new 2

"Old 3" goes to new X
"Old 4" goes to new X

T104 Intermatic timer is SPDT single pull double throw, so it turns off both wires going to Load.
New L1X2 timer is SPST single pull single throw, so it turns off one wire going to Load, and that's why old 3 and old 4 both connect to terminal X.

If this is too complex, then add a comment or buy new trippers and a new WG1573 clock motor and repair T104 for $20.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-trippers-and-parts.html#T100
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Pulled old switch out and had two black wires. New switch has 4 wires red,white,black , green

To wire this type of timer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitec-0192773.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15086

Heres what to do
1) Timer-green-wire connects to bare ground wire.
2) Switch has 2 insulated wires. Take switch wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and timer-red-wire. Choose either one for now.
3) In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Connect timer-white to these wires.
4) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground, along with timer-green wire.
5) Turn on electricity, and push ON-OFF button. If lights come on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
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I'm trying to install this Woods 59008 automatic fan timer in the bathroom. My old on/off switch only has three wires....and I that a light switch next to that. The woods 59008 has a red, black, white...

Sure George.

These in-wall timers have extra wire to operate the electronics located inside timer.
You said your old switch has 3 wires.
The new timer can only replace on-off switch that has 2 brass screws and a green screw.
If old switch has 2 brass screws and a dark screw, that is a 3-way switch.
Typically a 3-way switch is found at both ends of hallway.
The Woods 95008 countdown timer is not made to replace 3-way:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#59000

Here's what to do:
1) Switch has 2 wires (plus bare ground wire). Take switch wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and timer-red-wire. Choose either one for now.
2) In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Connect timer-white to these wires. This wire will power timer electronics.
3) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground, along with timer-green wire.
4) Turn on electricity, and push override button located below the OFF button. If lights come on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.

Add a comment if your need more assistance.
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15265 In-Wall Digital Timer - I am replacing an Aube with this new timer. Timer is to operate a wall plug (outdoor soffit). Timer is inside. The old switch had 3 wires - only two were connected (I think...

GE -15265 manual
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/GE-15265-manual.pdf
Ah, the usual how to connect 4 wires to the old 'was-3-wire and now-2-wire' problem.

I tested and wired these timers.
Aube timer has internal rechargeable battery, and therefore does not need another wire to run internal clock.
GE timer has extra wire to run internal electronic clock, just like alarm clock is plugged in.

Heres what to do in simple format
1) Timer-green-wire connects to bare ground wire.
2) Old timer has 2 wires. Take both wires and connect them to timer-black-wire and timer-red-wire. Choose either one for now.
3) In back of electric box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Connect timer-white to these wires. This action will complete circuit to internal clock.
4) If electric box does not have white wires described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground. This works because bare ground and white neutral both connect to neutral busbar inside breaker box.
5) Turn on electricity, push in timer door for manual override. If lights come on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not come on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.
If light does not come on, double check that outdoor bulb is good, and that breaker not tripped.
Timer can also be reset in event of short. Reversing red and black wires will not short timer.
Add a comment of you need more help

http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
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I'm trying to install this for our outdoor Christmas lights. The wall switch box has 1 black, 1 white, and 1 bare (ground). Where do I connect the red "timer" wire from the timer unit? When I...

Single pole application, red wire is capped off.
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#ST01C

That being said, you still have to connect Blue and Black wires correctly.
Switch has two wires, if you do not know which wire is which, follow instructions below.
Connect Blue and Black to either wire.
Turn on power.
Push ON-OFF button.
If lights work, then timer is wired correctly.
If lights don't work, then reverse Blue and Black.

Be sure outdoor bulb is working.
I have a long story about that, and tested every wire and breaker ... and bulb was burned out.
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Am replacing an old wall timer with a GE Smart Digital Timer. The old timer had two black wires connected to two black wires from the wall. The new timer however has red, black, white and green wires. I...

I've tested these timers.
Here's what to do:
1) Connect green to bare copper
2) Switch has 2 wires. For now, connect these two wires to timer-black and timer-red. Choose either one.
3) In back of wall box are white neutral wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. Timer-white wire connects to these white neutral wires. This action gives power to time clock.
4) If wall box does not have white neutrals described above, then connect timer-white to bare ground wire. Bare ground connects to neutral busbar in breaker box.
5) Turn on power and click manual override button or switch. If lights turn on, timer is wired correctly. If lights do not turn on, then reverse timer-red and timer-black wires.
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New switch GE model 15265 ... to light up 2 lightbulbs outside. Old switch all cables are black. Those who light up the tester are the hot=Red/black?? Those which do not light up are white?? Green I know...

Manual for GE 15265
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/GE-15265-manual.pdf
15A timer works fine on two bulbs, up to 1440 total watts.

If old switch has 2 screws plus green ground screw, then timer is right.
If old switch has 3 screws plus green ground screw, 15265 doesn't replace 3-way switch.

Timer-green wire connects to bare ground wire

Old switch has 2 screws with wires on each.
One wire is Hot-from breaker and this connects to timer-black wire.
One wire Goes-to-lights and this connects to timer-red wire.
If you get these two wires reversed, timer will not work, so reverse them.
It will not blow circuit if the timer-red and timer-black wires are reversed.

Timer-White wire is the confusing wire for everybody:
Timer-white wire runs clock motor located inside timer.
In back of electric box are neutral white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut.
Connect timer-white to these neutral wires.
If box does not have neutral white wires, connect timer-white to bare ground wire.

geno_3245_61.jpg
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Need a wiring diagram for installing a EJ500C in place of a 3-way

Locate the COMMON wire
connected to first old switch.
It might be attached to a different
colored screw, or find
markings on old switch.
Connect BLACK wire from
switch timer to COMMON
wire, using a twist connector.
Connect the other two wires from the old switch to either the
BLUE and RED wires from the switch timer.
Connect the ground wire from the box to the BARE COPPER
wire on the switch timer. If there is no ground wire, ground the
switch timer to the box. If the box is plastic, connect the bare
copper wire to ground as supplied or contact an electrician.
Locate the COMMON on the second old switch of the 3-way pair.
Connect jumper wire (supplied) from the COMMON terminal
to either of the other terminals on the remote 3-way switch.
Make sure all twist connectors are tight.
Tuck wires into wall boxes leaving room for the devices.
Mount the devices into the wall boxes, then install the wall plates.
Turn power back on at the service panel.
Make sure the switch timer displays “MAN” mode. Do the following
test with the remote switch in each of its 2 positions:
Press the NEXT ON/OFF button on the switch timer several
times. Each time that you push the
NEXT ON/OFF button, the
switch controlled light or device (the “load”) should turn on
or off. If so, proceed to Section 3.
If the timer display changes between ON and OFF but the
load does not operate, re-check your wiring and make sure
the load is functional.
If the timer display changes
between ON and OFF but the
load only operates when the
remote switch is in one of
its 2 positions, you need to
turn off the power at the service panel, change the jumper
wire to the other terminal. Then turn power back on at the
service panel and repeat. good luck
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How to wire a stereo system

Connect the 2 gage to the battery thru at least s 50 amp fuse, then connect the capacitor in line before the amps. Then run the 2 gage to a connector/splitter block and run 4 gage leads to each amp. You also will need at least 4 gage ground leads from each amp to a body grounded bolt or screw. You need to run a quality set of speaker leads from the head unit to the amps. The speakers will need separate leads from the amp to each speaker.You will need to try some different combinations to get the sound and bass you want. You want to be able to fade from front to rear and control everything thru the head unit.
Use a hole saw to cut a 2 to 3 inch diameter hole in the side of the speaker box for a port to get a better punch from the sub.
Hope this helps some....
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