My ionic breeze 3.0 stopped working the other day. I have cleaned it and still it does not get any power at all. Tried all kinds of outlets. Is there any solution out there for me without sending it out for repair? Should I buy a new one? This one is only about 9 months old. Please Help!!!
My Ionic Breeze GP began losing power occasionally but I could shake it and get it to turn back on. It got worse and worse until it would not turn on anymore.
The problem on mine is the micro switch that detects whether the collector plates are inserted or not, so it is part of the safety mechanism. There is a about a one-inch cylindrical piece of plastic on the front of the collector plate handle. This cylinder goes through a hole and pushes on the micro switch (actually a plastic cover over the micro switch).
On mine, it appears that arcing inside the switch caused it to get hot, deforming the plastic a little bit and apparently ruining the inside of the switch.
The following URLs describe the switch, but I have not found a retailer that carries it:
http://www.dicgroup.com/pdf/SM/SM5-01N.pdf
http://www.dicgroup.com/e-pro01-sm.html
Another of the same model switch is used in the back of the unit to detect whether the rear cover is on (over the UV bulb).
If I cannot find a replacement, I am thinking of either bypassing the bad switch entirely or swapping the switch from the back. Either way would defeat a safety feature so it's probably not to be recommended, but I consider the sacrificing the switch for the back cover to be introducing only limited risk, so I might take that route if I have to.
This is a follow-up to my August 2, 2008 post.
I found a suitable replacement switch at Mouser Electronics, mouser.com. It is Mouser part # 101-1203-EV. The problem is that the lever is too long, so I cut it with my Dremel cutting wheel before installing.
Mouser also has a similar switch, part # 101-1201-EV on which the lever is the correct length, however it has solder lugs instead of PC board legs.
I ordered both switches and then made my decision about which to use after looking at them. The choices are either cut (shorten) the lever on the 1203 switch or enlarge the holes on the mounting board to fit the 1201 switch. In my judgement it was easier to cut the lever.
The new switch is installed and the unit is working fine again.
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The rear grill has an electrical contact on it. If the grill is not seated properly, electrical contact is lost and the unit will not run.
Here's how to remove and reseat the rear grill:
1. Turn off the unit.
2. Unplug the unit.
3. Remove the collection grid.
4. At the bottom of the rear grill is a blue tab. Pull it toward you and lift the grill up and off.
6. Put the grill back on so that the locking tabs go into their slots.
5. Slide the grill down to lock the tabs in place. Verify the blue tab is latched.
6. Put the collection grid back in.
7. Plug the unit back in and turn it On.
If that doesn't work, it is possible the contact in the rear grill is still not touching correctly. Use the steps above to remove the rear grill. Then locate the metal strip on the inside lower portion of the grill. Clean it and clean the metal pin it is supposed to touch on the chassis. If the contact is tarnished, use an emery board to shine it up. Also shine up the pin. Then VERY gently lift the contact a little so that is sticks out further. Replace the rear grill. Insert the collection grid. Turn the unit On.
The unit will not power on if the grills are not attached correctly. Pull on them to see if one of the sides did not seat right. The grills can appear to be fully attached even when they aren't.
Mine stop working. So I disassembled it. Took my multi-meter for verification. I checked the soldered fuses, and it was OK. I moved on to power switch for continuity, as I read that someone had to replace it, but it was OK. I noticed that there is a micro switch where the filter blades slide in, so I disassembled it and noticed that the micro switch was not working. And after opening the micro switch, the little internal spring had rusted and was broken. So I went to my local electronic store to by a replacement micro switch, replaced the micro switch, reassembled the unit and everything worked.
If you purchased the replacement and service guarantee you will receive your money back from NEW ( the warranty company) The info is on the Sharper Image Web page. My unit quit and I received a check for the full amount very quickly last month.
Can you give me the number to call to get it fixed thank you all :)
Cleaning contacts and reseating did not work
I thought I read that the Sharper Imaage went out of business. Their supposed web site now looks sort of ametuerish and crude. What's happenin'?
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I'll take that as the warranties all died.
Return it under warranty why go through the hassele of trying to fix it will only be out for about 2-4 weeks.
Sharper Image will replace it if you call them. Unfortunately, most all of them end up with this problem at some point. We are on our third one and its been relegated to the dogs room.
Hi.
About Ionic breeze purifier, they are not
being manufactured anymore because of heath concerns. New model use a
completely different technology. Parts are also not distributed anymore.
I suggest replacing the ionic purifier with a different air purifier.
Please read the article below:
Ionic Breeze Health Concerns
Regards.
Ginko.
I fixed it! I cleaned the contacts mention previous PLUS around the wires and beads at the bottom. It works again. The front grill comes off and gives ample access to the beads and contacts. I also blew the whole thing out with compressed air. Good Luck!
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I have the same problem! It jsut quit working. Will not power on at all.
I have the ionic breeze quadra with the ozone protector on it. Just last week mine quit working. Doesn't get any power to it at all. Also to note, although it would never notify me when it needed to be cleaned, i cleaned it every couple of weeks because I have two large dogs.
I followed the instructions in the other post but did not see any blue contacts. I disassembled my unit and cleaned the entire inside, cleaned the pins on the bottom inside of the unit with electrical cleaner and even roughed them up with a scotch bright pad.
While I had it apart i examined the board which is located underneath in the base as best i could without removing those portions and nothing appeared to be melted.
I also examined the circuitry on the top board which is attached to the power button and nothing appeared melted - but that one did seem older.
NO MATTER HOW MUCH I CLEAN IT, THE UNIT WILL NOT COME ON; [email protected]
NO MATTER HOW MUCH I CLEAN IT, THE UNIT WILL NOT COME ON; [email protected]
NO MATTER HOW MUCH I CLEAN IT, THE UNIT WILL NOT COME ON; [email protected]
NO MATTER HOW MUCH I CLEAN IT, THE UNIT WILL NOT COME ON; [email protected]
Same problem...no wonder the Sharper Image went bankrupt...I even have the replacement guarantee...but what can be done now?
I have one and it started getting hard to turn on then I started smelling a leaking electrolytic capacitor so it's out on the work bench for tonight's repair. This should be a common problem esp as they age, I have to push the power button 20 or 30 times to get it to turn on, don't bother pushing the button harder it's not the button but the cap in power supply circuit, I haven't opened it up yet but that smell is one you just know as a tech.
Mine stop working. So I disassembled it. Took my multi-meter for verification. I checked the soldered fuses, and it was OK. I moved on to power switch for continuity, as I read that someone had to replace it, but it was OK. I noticed that there is a micro switch where the filter blades slide in, so I disassembled it and noticed that the micro switch was not working. And after opening the micro switch, the little internal spring had rusted and was broken. So I went to my local electronic store to by a replacement micro switch, replaced the micro switch, reassembled the unit and everything worked.
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