Nothing seems to be missing, but pumping this one pot (unlike others just like it) does not get liquid flowing. No obvious problems or differences with the pots that do work. It's as if a seal is broken somehow. How can I troubleshoot this?
Most airpots have a small "screw in" cap on the bottom. It this is loose, it will not keep the vacuum pressure. Try tightening it (turn to the right) and then try to use the pot. It may help?
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The coffee dispensing valve is stuck open. It may be due to Calcium deposits.
Descale the machine or manually clean the dispensing valve and the diffuser disc that unscrews to be removed. This diffuser is visible just above the coffee pot.
You should call your vendor for service on any commercial brewer. (Especially if it's on loan from them)
*** the following is for information only as all repairs should be performed by a qualified tech.***
* Since no brand or model given. I suspect this is a commercial coffee brewer as it probably has a plumbed in water line. Bloomfield, Curtis, and Bunn are the most common. I'm using Bunn CWTF for this example but it covers most other brands too.
* The CWTF has a start switch activates the timer (analog or digital) board which turns on the water feed to the brew tank. This forces previously heated water out and sprayed over the ground coffee in the brew funnel. Coffee then drips into the decanter. Under filling is caused by un-calibrated timer or interment timing.
* The timer comes in two types; Dial (old) and Digital. If it's the dial then a simple turn of the dial will make less or more water flow to decanter. You MUST re-brew (no coffee, but use funnel) into the decanter or pot that you plan to use. Don't mix up different size pots as the timer is only good for 1 setting. Turn dial and brew once to check. Keep checking with a brew after each adjustment. Do a final brew just to be sure.
* The digital timer is a bit more complicated to adjust. Sorry, too many switches and options to go into it here. Check Bunn.com for a manual (FREE download) on line. Several methods are listed. The fill and stop is the easiest one.
* If it does not adjust or won't keep the set time then. Replace the timer. Digital timers tend to be sensitive to electrical storms. Analog timers have a dial and are more tolerant of electrical surges.
* Check the water fill solenoid. Should be a definite click when activated. Water filling sound should be very clear.
* No water flow then check the water supply line if it's on.
* Final; this brewer needs service. Call your coffee vendor for advice.
Aloha, ukboy57
P.S., Older timers usually are reliable. It may have been set for a larger decanter or pump pot. The pump pots come in 2.5L and 3L for the big boys. Decanters are 10 cup and standard 12 cup. Check your office as there may be an unused pump pot or small decanter in a cupboard that got put away for making "too little" coffee. Try a brew in this smaller pot. Any change in pot size requires an adjustment to the timer. This is the only way to get "Less" or "More" out of the brewer. (Yes there is a way to use the "Pour Over" function for one time special brews. Check the manual for this option.)
Hi,
Below are solutions for a leaking coffee maker and how to decalcify the machine?
Tools and Materials needed to fix this problem are as:
* White Vinegar
* Fresh Water
* Volt-ohm Meter
* Screwdriver
Step 1 - Clean
If your coffee maker seems to be clogged, try cleaning it with a mixture of white vinegar and water. Assuming that your coffee maker has a 12 cup capacity you will want to use 11 cups of vinegar and 1 cup of water. Fill the coffee pot to the 11 cup mark with vinegar and then fill it to the 12 cup mark with water.
Pour this mixture into the reservoir and turn on the coffee maker, allowing it to run through a brewing cycle as if you were making a pot of coffee. By doing this you will dissolve any build up in your coffee maker. If the coffee maker is leaking because the pump is clogged, then this might clear the clog and stop the leaking. If it has been a while since you last cleaned your coffee maker, you may need to run the vinegar through more than one cleaning cycle to dissolve all of the buildup.
Step 2 - Pump Valve
Unplug the coffee maker and examine the pump valve. If the pump valve is broken or has a clog, then the water will not be able to rise up and flow through the fill tube. When the coffee maker is turned on, the water needs to go someplace. If it cannot flow through the fill tube, then it may leak onto the countertop. If the pump in your coffee maker is sealed, you will need to replace the whole pump. If the pump is not sealed you should check it to ensure it is not clogged with coffee grounds or mineral deposits.
Step 3 - Brew Switch
Examine the brewing switch to ensure that is working. To get to the brewing switch, remove the base plate. Next, you will need to test the switch with your volt-ohm meter. Touch the tester to the RX1 scale. If it reads 0 ohms then you will know that the switch works fine. If it gives you a number other than 0 then it is time to replace the switch.
Step 4 - Tube Connectors
If the coffee maker is leaking or sputtering then you should take a look at the tube connectors. Many times, a leaky coffee maker is caused by faulty tube connectors. If you find the leak is in an elbow, clean the surfaces before you replace it. If the tube connector leaks, replace both the tube and the elbow so that you can be sure the pieces will both fit together properly.
To decalcify, you will be needing a : decalcifying cleaner and A container large enough to hold the same quantity of liquid as your water reservoir
1) Remove the machine's water reservoir.
2) Empty all liquid from the reservoir.
3) Fill the reservoir with warm water.
4) Add one packet of the recommended cleaner to the full reservoir and stir until the cleaner is dissolved.
5) Return the water reservoir to the machine.
6) Turn the machine on.
7) Set the large container underneath the steam wand.
8) Set up your machine so that hot water -NOT steam-will be emitted from the steam wand when the steam valve is opened.
9) Open the steam valve according to the manufacturer's instructions.
10) After all of the decalcifying solution has drained into the large container (within a few minutes this will occur), remove it and discard the liquid that has been collected.
11) Rinse the water reservoir thoroughly and then fill it with the type of water you usually use for brewing.
12) Return the water reservoir to its normal position.
13) Using only water repeat steps 7 through 9 until the water reservoir is empty again.
I hope the above helps....
Good luck.
To clean the pump pot, use purocaff, add a teaspoon of the soap to the pump pot then fill with warm water, let sit for about 1 hour, then use a brush to clean.
You may need to run a pot of white vinegar and water (50/50) through several times to flush out the line and heater. Make sure that the plate under the pot is getting very hot or it won't pump water from the reservoir. Hope this helps!
If the hole in the bottom of the basket isn't plugged, it sounds like the anti-drip feature isn't functioning properly. This is the series of levers that allow you to remove the pot while the coffee is perking without spraying liquid everywhere.
There is a vertical lever mounted at the back of the hollow where the pot goes, and the top end of that lever lines up with the spring-loaded lever that closes the bottom of the coffee basket. When the basket is in place without the pot, the bottom of the basket remains closed. When the pot is inserted it presses against the back lever and the series of contacts opens the valve covering the hole in the bottom of the basket, allowing the coffee to flow into the pot. If the sequence of contacts doesn't work the basket will overflow, and you get coffee and grounds everywhere.
Ensure all these parts align and are working properly. If there's a problem that can't be resolved, or parts are broken or missing, removing the spring-loaded lever from the basket will allow the coffee to flow into the pot. You will no longer be able to remove the pot while it is perking, but you'll have your morning coffee.
the toyostove is basically a glorified monitor heater. its components are a combustion blower, an air circulator fan, a flame pot, a flat wick or burner mat, a solenoid pump, an ignition element, double walled intake, exhaust pipe. the combustion blower is a glorified vacuum cleaner motor. it sucks in cool air and channels it to the combustion chamber along the sides (round cylinder) kero enters on the burner mat where it ignites. the solenoid pump keeps adding kero until the flame detector spots or heats up. air flow to the pot is regulated by a damper in the combustion air blower line. if the "O" ring in the damper is missing or hardened it will not regulate the air flow which is necessary for combustion. replace this "O" ring should take care of your problem.
Everyone-I had this same problem, and I realize this thread is a couple years old now, but for anyone reading this from now on-
YOUR PUMP IS FINE. When you first go to prime the system you are getting air trapped, most likely in the radiator where you can't see, and gravity is stopping it from clearing out.
You most likely have the case upright for adding more liquid. Once you've added all you can:
TURN THE CASE ON ITS SIDE. This will put the tank reservoir higher than everything and the liquid will push through and the air will end up here as it should. Once you hear it sucking, turn it off, pull it up right, add more liquid. Rinse and repeat til all bubbles are gone and all sucking sounds cease.
I fought this for a whole afternoon. Threads all over the internet said nothing, til I looked on the reviews on newegg. God bless those guys, about 3 different people said to try this and it worked like a charm. Thermaltake should pull their heads out of their butts and put this in the manual.
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