Locked my keys

Hello James Squyres,

Of the 33 TSBs (tech service bulletins)...

I found nothin on your issue...

Going to the vehicle drawings... (I'm guessing you are considering keeping this beauty)...

Get the FACTORY+WORKSOP+MANUAL... I HIGHLY
recommend for drawing (exactly this issue) and easy secrets to get through those nasty UNIQUE Caddy tasks.. that NO body but your friendly CADDILAC Club might ALSO know...

Nevertheless...
your drawings are presently available on one of my favorite sites "BBB Industries: (see below, registration required).

Perusing the drawings...
The only source not shared with your manual ignition source appears to be through your "TRUNK RELEASE" function.. is sourced (without the ignition) through "THE TRUNK LID LATCH SWITCH"... (ground source).

I am thinking LATCHED (totally defective, replace) contacts there would cause your problem...

BUT... on further consideration...

The drawing show a total TRAVEL of the un-latched lock should completely open the ground circuit... reversing POLARITY of the motor and ready it for the LATCHING sequence...

To me...

It looks to be the trunk lock TRUNK-LID PULL DOWN MOTOR STRIKER SWITCHES... failing to release (change polarity) in the UP position...

Replace the "TRUNK-LID ADJAR" switch.
Everything SHOULD come up peaches...

As to why it is not an issue with manual control...
I'd need to be there with a Volt-Ohm Meter

(perhaps we could dialog)...

Happy hunting...

8/11/2016... post week-long silence

So... 9 DAYs later

little more dialog is not acceptable (?)
I'll go to my monolog:

If you don't know how to run a Volt-Ohm Meter
I'm wasting your time (GOOD DIGITAL $10).

Because of the POLARITY REVERSAL (to push the latch up (when radio-released))...
IS A GROND START SEQUENCE..!!

It is not reasonable to look beyond the mechanical contacts (which I ALREADY) noted... previously.

The full open motion
(at the end of the open cycle)...
Should push the contacts (to reverse polarity)... STOPPING THE UPWARD DIRECTION...
The battery contact (close sequence) is a BATTERY START SEQUENCE) is triggered by gentle push of the trunk lid into the LATCH.

It the travels down tightening the trunk-lid into place... and reversing the MOTOR POLARITY again at the FULL CLOSED POSITION

The ONLY thing that can keep the motor running is bad contact in the release switch... or (somebody) HAYWIRED it.

It would HAVE BEEN be nice to know if you UNDERSTAND the electro-mechanical nature of your lock assembly.

HAVE you done any rewiring (HAYWIRING) would be the PRIME CONCERN...

ELSE... It is the trunk latch contacts.

When last I looked ... those parts were still available...

and having spare parts for a collector quality car cannot be that DISTASTFUL...

I'd give it a TRY (I'm just saying)

BBB Industries Premium Alternators Starters Power Steering Products

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/cadillac,1995,deville,4.6l+v8,1025323,electrical-switch+&+relay,trunk+lid+release+switch,4828

1995 CADILLAC DEVILLE 4 6L V8 Trunk Open Warning Switch RockAuto

More Information for STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS DS939

More Information for ACDELCO 16889150

None of this works on a 2005 civic keys locked in trunk manuel trunk pull is locked and back seats only fold down with the key to open them so what did I do remove the plastic cover in the drivers side where the locked manuel latch is find the trunk pop cable and pull ups it until it pops the trunk latch took 2 min

(the key is dead? or the remote lever?) why not say>?
i know of only these tricks. (all cars not yours)
1: crawl true rear set , hole,behind seat.
2: if electric latch, hot wire it.
3: if cable latch. find a way to get to cable and yank the casing
hard, while person 2 tries to open the trunk.
4: drill out the key hole, then usiing a screw driver open the trunk.
5: drive to any lock shop smith. and ask em. its trivial.
A; they (smith) have working keys, or can make keys or can pick the lock
or failing all that do #4.

it sounds like the lock motor is working but the latch mechanism is seized and needs repair.it could be the arm that attaches the motor to the latch could have come unhooked and not releasing the latch.i`m not too familiar with these but i can`t see a manufacture building a car and not having an outside access to the trunk like a key lock as it becomes a safety issue.if you mean the key lock is missing you can insert a screw driver into the hole and engage it into the latch mechanism and turn this should open the trunk.if not then you will have to remove the rear seat and hope there is enough room to crawl into the trunk to manually open it.

If there are no restrictions in the trunk ,try to turn key to release already trunk latch. may need to put screwdriver in latch to help release. sometimes when you shut trunk latch will go to locking position and all you need to do is open latch with the key

probably needs a new latch but from inside strip out the interior boot panel and check latch operation and you should be able to open by pulling rods

Try a screw driver,and release the trunk release at the same time and unsnap the latch,the latch thinks it is closed,because the latch never opened back up to allow the striker to go in it and trigger the latch to close,the latch is in closed mode,you will have to manually unlatch the latch sort of speak.

you must adjust the trunk latch for this to work properly,up or down.

I had to reinstall the loose mounting hardware for the trunk upper latch.

check the fuse or take ot trunk switch from door panel and jump it to open trunk! or go to a lock smith and he can make a key for trunk