Question about Brother XR-65t Mechanical Sewing Machine
When set for straight stitch, there is a "peak" stitch about every 6-8 stitches
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Take the thread out, Take the needle plate out Watch as the needle comes comes down, make sure the hook is just above the eye of the the needle as it makes its pass by the scarf of the needle if not refer to my post on timing.
Posted on Jun 02, 2010
SOURCE: stitching looping
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....the question you pose could have 2 meanings....this reply is for looping thread.
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all back properly.
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes. ie a different colour top and bottom just for the test.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is, and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine case....no case ? then make some sort of cover ! Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !
If you need any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au
Posted on Feb 23, 2008
SOURCE: Shirring fabric?
When putting your shirring elastic on the bobbin, don't thread the elastic through the bobbin holder,adjust the stitch length longer,and loosen the tension, other wise if you want to put it through the bobbin holder you have to loosen the tension screw on the bobbin holder, and then you have to adjust it back for ordinary sewing,
Posted on Feb 13, 2010
#1- tension settings, set this to "5" and leave it
#2- width control setting, 0 would be straight while 5 would be the full width of the stitch (would make a wide zig zag)
#3- Length control, larger the number, longer the stitch. (usually you will set this from 1.5 to 2.5)
#4- Stitch selector, match up the number with the stitch you want to sew. If you want to use the lower row of stitches (14-25) set the length dial to "ss". (ss stands for stretch stitch, such as for #14 (three rows of straight dashed lines) instead of just sewing one stitch forward, the machine will sew back and forth giving you a stretchy stitch/stronger)
Let me know if you need more help :) Chris
Posted on Jun 12, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank you very much, Chris Myers, for your full, clear, and generous response to my question. The photo of the machine with the directional arrows is an illuminating supplement to your text. I think Brother should incorporate your response in their manual for all us initiates. Much gratitude, Maryanne"
Simple things first, check the needle to make sure it is perfect, if you can select all the patterns and the needle moves from side to side but does not pick up the thread then it could be a timing issue and you can email me for attachment of instructions, if the needle is not moving side to side when you select a pattern then it may well be a split camstack.
Posted on Jul 05, 2010
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