After using the cleaning feature of our MER6755AAB range, the upper oven has suddenly stopped working. I have replaced the relay-control board that the touch screen is attached to with no change in top oven's operation. When you touch the bake or broil button, there is a relay clicking sound and immediately the entire operation ends. Any suggestions for a guy with a meter?
SOURCE: Oven will not bake or broil
bann...why did you replace the element? It is possible that the relay or the control circuit were the problems and still are. The hi limit switch is a temperature 'box' which is designed to open the circuit in case of overheating. Rarely a problem. First, these units are 3 wire units. That means 220 volts ... two breakers. They may be part of a linked unit or separate. Turn them BOTH off and then on. Do all of your burners heat properly on high? If you have a voltage tester, you can test to see if the voltage is there. Unplug the unit. The vertical slot is neutral. Each of the other slots with the neutral should light the tester. If not, your problem is outside the stove.
SOURCE: Oven igniters, are both suppose to be on during preheat or bake?
good choice,sounds like the bake igniter is bad
SOURCE: Maytag Gas Oven top burner does not turn on when in bake mode
That is the way it works. If you have an convection oven then they both work in bake mode but they alternate between the two.
SOURCE: what is F1 on my maytag range model mer5570acw I
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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