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Thi unit has a burner with two concentric burners. The dual surface selector switch no longer alows the smaller inside burner to come on. Does the selector switch need replacing?
Based on your answer, I belive it is the switch as the burner works.. Thank you.Based on your answer, I belive it is the switch as the burner works.. Thank you.
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Hello. What the problem is a part in the cooktop that opens to let gas flow to the knobs as soon as they are turned on is bad and no gas coming to surface unit burners. This a safety feature that the German goverment(where Gaggenau is made) requires that part to prevent a gas leak when cooktop is off.
Hello there I will answer this in 2 sections for testing the burners and the thermostate
Surface Burner Testing:
In order to test the surface burner on your electric range, the following steps should be taken:
Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
Remove the surface burner from the stovetop. On most electric
ranges this can be done by pulling the burner up and out of its plug-in
receptacle. Other models have the burner directly wired to the cooktop.
To remove this type of burner, undo the screw that secures the burner to
the cooktop, remove the clips that secure the insulators to the burner terminals, and carefully unscrew the wires from the terminals. Take care not to bend these terminals.
Visually inspect the burner - often there will be small holes or bubbles on the surface of a defective element.
Now that you have removed the burner, you can test it using your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1 and touch the test leads to the two burner terminals. The VOM should show continuity.
Typical burner readings should be somewhere between 19 and 115 ohms,
depending on the range manufacturer. If there is no continuity, the
burner is defective. To test for a grounded (or shorted) burner, place
one test lead on the outside surface of the burner and the other test
lead on each burner terminal in turn. If there is continuity at either
terminal, the burner is defective.
If the burner is defective, replace with a new one by reversing the
removal procedure (step 2 above). If replacing a wired-in burner, make
sure that you install the wires on the correct terminals, according to
the wiring diagram
Oven Thermostat Testing:
An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature
it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a
liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal
oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.
Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:
On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and
tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from
their components.
Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the
backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the
backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel
by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws
may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control
panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
On some models both the rear and front control panels must be
removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim
must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals
as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of
the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to
be replaced.
Adjusting the thermostat:
Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's
center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum
and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures
together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average
temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try
calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual
instructions for thermostat calibration.
The part you need to replace is the switch. The switch is housed under the top and connects to the dial you are turning. The switch for the dual burner is 12002125, and 74011242 for the single burner.
The single burner switch runs about $20.00 and the dual runs about $50.00 for the parts
Sure, I meant to get a copy of the schematic last night so that I could send it to you with the changes. I'll get it tonight and send it to you along with the info I have now. The only thing that will be different is that you won't have independent controls of the dual element burner. For me that was fine cause my wife and I never use just the smaller burner but rather always both. The part #1009577 from repair clinic.com is an infinite switch which is already being used in the cook top for the largest burner or if not (cause I actually didn't look) for sure it is used in the JEC9536, just the wider model. This part is rated from 8.9 - 11.0 amps or 2,640 watts, when you hook the two burners together I believe it adds up to 3,000 watts so the infinite switch (the biggest I could locate) is slightly under sized. However, I felt most things especially electrical, are over engineered for safety any ways. When you remove the circuit board you will have to drill out the two slots where the two mounting screws will secure the new switch, or you can do what I did and stick a screw driver in the slots and stretch them slightly (very easy to do). You'll need to find two screws that fit the new switch for mounting ( not too long, if your not sure take one off one of the other infinite switches and match it up). I'll have to get back with you on the wiring, it is rather simple though, most of the connections are the same as the other infinite switches. The grainger.com part number 2FBT6 is just a snap action thermal switch that will replace the thermal sensor that went to the circuit board to light up the hot surface indicator. I tried to use the existing sensor but the hot surface indicator lamp stays lit, so I figured that the sensor was probably a 0-10volt or 4-20mAmp switch that the circuit board monitored and turned on the hot surface indicator accordingly. That is a simple hook up also, however, I have not installed that yet cause I did not find out about the thermal sensor not working for the hot surface indicator until after I put in the infinite switch. Tonight I will install it and let you know what wires go where along with a marked up schematic, maybe even photos if you would like.
Sounds like a short in that particular burner circuit. Usually when the light stays on even after cool down the heat sensor is bad. This is inside the burner. If your getting white smoke the burner switch could also be shorted out.
its been my experience that the dual burner switch is far more likely the culprit, unless you can physiclaly see the outer ring is broken( visual inspection works wonders. as far as trying to ohm out i generally look at theelemnet itself (4 wires lead to the elemnt you can trace 1 to the outer portion of element, and 1 to the inner portion.WITH POWER OFF Iswithc those 2 wires and the restore power try element ad watch for outer ring to work inner ring no good. now i know its the switch not sending power. reset wires and order new switch
Based on your answer, I belive it is the switch as the burner works.. Thank you.
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