I bought a HILMORE PUMP 309515003 for my pressure washer. My old pump had an oil fill port on top and this pump doesn't. Does this pump use oil if so where do I fill it? Thanks

Non-detergent 20-30-weight goes into pump port, and is filled about half way.
Ordinary motor oil 10-W30 or 40 goes into engine port.

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see the causes and use the common sense, God bless you.
If your washer won't drain, check these: It spins, but doesn't pump It doesn't spin or pump It pumps, but the water returns It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump. It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems: If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

see the next steps and use the common sense: God bless you
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump. It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems: If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

Overflow is usually caused by a "stuck-open" fill valve, with the cold water half of the valve 'sticking' open from sediment buildup inside the valve.

This can also be caused by the fill system control components: pressure switch, pressure tube, or pressure tube dome/port. So let's take a look at these.

First of all, determine whether your overflow condition is mechanical or electrical. Start the washer filling, then turn the timer off by pushing the knob in. If the fill continues, pull the washer plug. If filling continues with the washer unplugged, you have a mechanical problem - nearly always a stuck valve ***'y. Replace the fill valve.

If however, the fill stops when you unplug the machine, you are looking at an electrical fill control problem, and it gets a little more complicated.

Here a small piece of rubber or plastic tubing is handy. Unplug the washer and open the console where you'll see the pressure switch. This is the switch with a small rubber tube, usually clear, sometimes black, attached. Pull this tube off and replace it with your short tubing. Blow a bit of pressure into the switch using your mouth, and listen for a click, then another when you release the pressure. Hear two clicks? Good! The switch is probably OK

Plug the washer back in (being aware that components in the console are now 'hot' - live electric, use extreme caution , u can be SHOCKED), and start the washer filling again. With it filling, again blow a bit of pressure into the switch. If the switch is good, the fill should stop and the machine should start to agitate.

This verifies that the pressure switch is working, and causes us to suspect the pressure tubing or a clogged port/dome to which it connects. Wipe off the end of the original tube you removed from the switch, and blow into it. You're blowing air down into the tank now, and you should feel very little restriction. If it is very hard or impossible to blow through this tube, the tank dome or port is clogged.

Really old Maytags were known for this, and if you have one, spin out all water, remove the 'Corbin' clamp from the pressure tube outside of the tank and pull the tube off. (Pull washer front off - 2 Phillips screws at bottom, then two 3/8 in. hex screws release top, which swings upward) You will probably see 'gunk' clogging both the rubber tubing and the 'spud' that is a part of the tank. The hose ***'y can be taken to a sink and flushed clean with hot water, and an old toothbrush used to clear the tank spud, which, in the Maytags, is about 3/4 in. ID.

Very important: WHENEVER THE PRESSURE TUBE IS REMOVED, BEFORE REINSTALLING IT, BE SURE ALL WATER HAS BEEN SPUN OUT OF THE WASHER! Otherwise, the water fill level will be incorrect and you'll be back in trouble.

I don't know if your power washer is like mine.
Oil ports at base of engine are for 10-W-30 motor oil and lubricate the engine, just like a car engine.
Oil comes up a bit more than half-way on dip stick.

Oil port on pump is for SAE20 or SAE30 non-detergent motor oil.
Oil fills about half way up inside pump housing.

Do not turn engine over or on its side to drain oil or oil will drain into carburetor.
Use a siphon to drain oil and tip machine up about 60 degrees

gasoline-powered pressure washer needs oil in two places. The pump and the engine.
Please read your manual along with this information.
Also stop by small engine shop and double-check details.


First the pump: Pump is where you attach hoses.
-On side of pump is clear window you can see oil. Oil should fill about half way. Do not fill entirely.
-Open cap on top of pump.
-Pour oil in from top.
-Your manual should tell you which oil to use. 10-20 or 10-30 non-detergent should do.

The engine.
Look for oil cap on lower side of engine

Use regular 10-W-30 motor oil.
Don't over-fill. About half way up dip stick is about right.
Never turn gasoline engine upside down to drain oil, or oil will flow into carburetor.

Any pressure washer pump should be no more than half full. The reason is if you fill it completely up when the piston strokes it will blow the seals out of the pump. Usually there is a sight gage on the side of the pump. I will look your model up and see what I can find as far as quantity for the pump. I won't be too long just read the 2nd response and please do not rate this one. I will get back to you ASAP.

Kelly

Just bought one of these for $100 on craigslist with out knowing anything. After 5 mins of use the pressure was varying all over the place and the pump binding up to the point white clouds of smoke where coming from exhaust. After tons of online research w/o success I just figured I had nothing to loose so I tried my own fix and now I have over 3 hours of solid use stripping old paint from house with out a single issue. All I did was
1 ) Remove the black screw off tube pointing up on water pump. ( was caked with gritty oil deposits) cleaned out old oil.


2) Used red hot nail to put single hole threw center of top

3) Re- Install tube

4) Took a Manual 8" Multi Sports Ball Air Pump with Inflation Needle and removed the top to poor in Oil then re-sealed ( I used old Mobile 1 0/20 synthetic from my last oil change )

5) Injected oil with pump threw center hole, you will feel the pressure build up and then feel and hear the oil rushing threw to the pump

6) I placed a Plastic Round Cap Roofing Nail threw the hole to help keep out water.

Simple fix but it saved my $100 investment as the pump now is running strong with great pressure!

The pump oil reservoir and pump pistons are between the Honda engine and the business end of the pump. It rarely brass, like the pump. It may be square or tubular. Some of these units have a site tube on the side, some don't. Some have an oil drain plug (bottom) and a plug to put oil in (top). If not, you have to take the pump off. Either way, be sure to use NON-detergent oil and only fill it about 1/3 to 1/2 full.

top is a breather you may be overfull of oil most pumps you can use engine oil .drain and put in half litre or if it has a sight glass top up to low side of glass and try it out.possible your seals on way out this usually then leaks at front or gets water in.if you still have good pressure oil seals easy to do.