Fan system diagram

3 wires for compressor, 3 for fan. 2 comp. wires go to the top of the contactor, the remaining goes to herm terminal on capacitor. 1 fan wire goes to the top LEFT of contactor, remaining 2 go to com and fan on capacitor. You will then have 1 wire left that goes to the com on the capacitor and should go back to the top RIGHT of the contactor. NOTE: IF YOUR FAN MOTOR IS RUNNING BACKWARDS (MEANING AIR IS NOT BLOWING OUT OR UP) swap the to fan motor wires on the capacitor (fan and com) this should reverse rotation. ALWAYS REMEMBER TO TURN POWER OFF AND DISCHARGE CAPACITOR BEFORE TOUCHING WITH INSULATED SCREWDRIVER. Good Luck!

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Try cleaning it first with canned compressed air they get dust built up in and sometimes won't run...do not run system with fan not working could overheat...try that...works most times

On the exhaust system (top of unit) there is a small metal 'damper' that is most likely stuck shut. If that is all clear then you have a problem in the duct work of the home.

to cure this increased fan speed and overheating issue, i strongly suggest you get a few cans of 3m or whatever brand duster cans are available to you. remove the side case cover with the system shut down and power supply unplugged and blow the dust off the fan blades and heat sink fins located behing the fan that covers the boards processor. some dust may be stubborn and can be remove with a gentle assistance from a tooth brush. be sure the air inlets at the front of your pc case a free and clear of blockages too. this should prevent your fans from running at such a high speed as needed to cool your system.

Choosing a good power supply depends on a few factors; The amount of power your PC and all it's internal/external connected devices need. The way your PC-casing is built (for airflow).

First it's important to know if you have added any internal/external hardware to the pc since you bought it (hard drives, video cards, usb devices, memory etc.). If this is the case then you definitely need to upgrade, but reading the second and third factors I mention below will shed more light on that.

Second (if possible) you need to check the voltage levels on your current Power Supply via you PC's BIOS or by using a program like Speedfan. If any of the voltages show a reading below what they are supposed to deliver, it means you need a higher amperage on your next Power Supply for that particular line. There are three lines to check (12+, 3.3+ and Core voltage). Usually Power Supplies have a Table with voltages on their sides and on the package. Refer to the one of current Power Supply to see how much amperage your new Power Supply needs to have.

Third it's important your new Power Supply has the fans positioned in the right spots. If your always make sure the air is blowing out of the casing. If it has a small fan on the back, it most likely blows outwards (sucking air from inside your PC case though the Power Supply). If it has a big fan on the top side, it's most likely designed to blow out of the top of the PC case. If it has a fan on the bottom side, it's most likely designed to **** air from the inside the PC casing and blow it through the Power Supply. However it may also be designed to blow out the side of smaller PC casings, in which case the Power Supply is position in front of the motherboard.

Fourth is kind of the-rule-of-the-thumb, always (if possible) buy a brand Power Supply. Generic/Standard Power Supplies do not nearly achieve as much power/lifetime/quality as a brand Power Supply. I recommend a Cooler Master, for their silent but powerful coolers.

Fifth but definitely not a lesser one. Check what connections your PC need. Count the amount of pins connected to your motherboard (usually either 20 or 20+4 pins). Most modern Power Supplies cover most of the connection types. But you don't want to come home with a new Power Supply that isn't going to support your old IDE drives or something.

You could help us help you by providing us with a list of Hardware your computer contains. I can search your PC type and read the specifications, but they don't show what you put extra in/on your machine.

Do you mean the power supply fan or the processor fan? Of the assemblies in a desktop, the power supply is the least reliable and the internal fan the most unreliable part. Since a failed fan can allow other parts of the supply to degrade, I recommend replacing the supply, not just the fan.
In eMachines, these are standard form factor (ATX) supplies so you would only need to order the same or higher power rating to have it compatible with your case.

Hi there
The power supply should be ATX 20pin connection and also a 4pin connector, look at this picture below so you know you have the power connections in the right places>>
On the top left of the picture, the big cream 20pin socket is where the 20 pin connector goes.
In the middle to the left you will see another cream 4pin socket is where the 4pin connector goes.
If your power supply does not have the 4pin connector the pc won't boot up, you will have to go out and buy one.
If you have all the connections right and the on/off button is connected to the front panel properly, take out the system memory, clean it with a clean, dry, soft pain brush and also clean the slots too, re-seat the memory and reboot the machine to see if it boots up.

Good luck and thanks for using Fixya!!!

EITHER VALVE STUCK TO ALLOW WATER IN MATRIX OR YOU HAVE AIR BLOCK IN IT. TAKE OFF TOP HOSE AND RUN MOTOR, TOP UP RAD AT SAME TIME, USED A DESCALANT IF WATER MUDDY /RUSTY LOOKING

I also have a 2004 Kia sedona with approx. 80,000 miles on it. The air conditing system stopped blowing cool air into the car. The fan would work, but would not blow cool air. After doing a lot of research. After trying to find a car repair manual or diagrams for the Kia Sedona with no luck. We ended up taking it to our machanic. He then replaced the compressor and it is working fine now. I now know that this is common for the compressor to go out on this van.

Danny

This problem can be any number of issues.

1. Heat. Make sure the air vents on the tower are free from dirt and debris. Open the side up and, using a can of air found in most electronic departments at stores, blow off the dust on the fan and heatsink which resides on top of the CPU. Also blow out as much dust as you can. If your computer is fairly dusty then this should solve your problem, if not check out the other things.

2. Power supply. Sometimes when a power supply begins to fail, it doesn't put out enough voltage to the various devices inside your PC when under load. Swap out the power supply with one from a know working system to verify.

3. Memory. Remove and reseat the memory chips inside the computer. Download a program like memtest to run checks on your memory.

4. Hard Drive. Sometimes when a hard drive begins to fail, it loses valuable windows files. The computer chugs along up until a point it looks for a file then it kills the system.

Based on the issue you described, I believe it to be a heat issue as the computer is designed to automatically shut down if the CPU reaches a critical temperature to protect the internal components.