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Purchased the washing machine in 2005. Worked great until this past spring. Became real noisy. Turns out the brake pads had completely disintegrated. They pulled the transmission to change the brakes. That squeaking noise is gone now, but the machine is extremely noisy when it is agitating and walks when it is in the spin cycle. Repair man told my husband that the noise level is within acceptable limits (we paid extra to get a quiet machine as our laundry is on first floor) and we needed rubber grips for on the feet. We have had them out 4 times. Now what?
Most noises from a washing machine occur during the spin cycle. If you hear loud thumping/or sound during the spin, the load of clothes may have become unbalanced. Stop the washer and redistribute the clothes, then re-start it. Repeat these steps if necessary.
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To your direct question - I don't know the Highlander model in detail, but as a general response, if the brakes are noisy when NOT applied, the piston in your new caliper may not be returning properly.
The return spring in disc brakes is actually the rubber fitted around the caliper piston. If this is causing the piston to be wrongly positioned, the brakes will be noisy. Check that the rotor can be turned by hand when the brakes are not applied. Also check that the piston is not retracting from the pads a very long way, which it should not do.
It is worth making very sure the spring clips are fitted correctly. Some can be easily put in the wrong way round.
If the brakes are squealing when applied, that is a different problem. You can get a disc brake anti squeal liquid, which is applied to the back of the pad on assembly to the caliper. Also double check all the anti squeal shims are correctly installed.
At this range, that's all I can think of right now.
If you are positive everything is bled out perfectly, it's possible that there is too much runout in the wheel bearings in front and they are pushing the pads back too far.
Does it feel solid after they are pumped up once? Another possibility is that the adjusters are not coming up in the rear brakes, and the springs are pulling the cylinders back too far.
One, take your brake fluid reservoir cap off.
Two, use a thin piece of wood to help you compress the piston on the caliper....do it slow. This way, you don't create a lot of pressure to the reservoir and it won't overflow.
Three, these are the steps to removing and replacing the pads for the rear. It does mention a special tool....but you can use a c-clamp for the same purpose:
Check the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If required, remove the fluid until the brake master cylinder reservoir is half full.
CAUTION Care must be taken when servicing rear brake components without disconnecting the parking brake cable from the brake caliper lever.
Remove the disc brake caliper. Support the caliper with mechanic's wire.
CAUTION When the brake pads are separated from the brake caliper, new brake pads must be installed. The brake pads are one-time use only.
Remove and discard the brake pads and spring clips from the brake caliper anchor plate.
NOTE: Do not remove the anchor plate guide pins. The guide pins are press fit to the brake caliper anchor plate. If the guide pins are damaged a new anchor plate must be installed.
Inspect the brake caliper anchor plate assembly.
Check the guide pins and boots for binding or damage.
Install a new brake caliper anchor plate if it is worn or damaged.
To Install: NOTE: The left caliper piston turns clockwise and the right caliper piston turns counterclockwise.
Using the special tool, turn and compress the brake caliper piston into the cylinder.
Clean the residual adhesive from the brake caliper fingers and pistons using the specified brake parts cleaner.
CAUTION Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other contaminants to contact the brake pad or caliper mating surface. Do not install contaminated pads. NOTE: Install all the new hardware supplied with brake pad kit.
Install the new spring clips and brake pads.
Position the brake caliper and install the 2 bolts. Tighten caliper bolts to 23 ft-lbs (31 Nm).
If necessary, fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean brake fluid.
With the engine running, apply pressure on the brake pedal to seat the brake pads.
If you are talking about a loud sqeaking noise, this is usually attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is to get rid of most noise related problems (this will be the bottom round plate where it meets the casing of the machine). However, if the snubber is worn too much, or if the brake assembly is worn they must be replaced. I would recommend replacing the following parts:
*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.
You can find all your parts and information at repairclinic.com. I am not affiliated with the website. I am merely recommending them because I have used their service before. Plus, they use the same repair parts as your major appliance repair companies, but at a lower cost.
The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it IS. Also, if you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommended to the average do-it-yourselfer. Maytag is real good abpout providing the necessary instructions with their parts, but this is a bit involved.
Post back with comments and let me know if this helps you.
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