Maytag Neptune FAV6800AWW different clutches?

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Lid Lock Replacement

To open the top of the Washer ther are two spring clips catches in the front holding the top closed. Use a putty knife to depress the spring catches. Slip the putty knife into the seam between the cabinet and the top. The catch is located on the left and right edge of the lid, about five inches in from each side. Depress the catch and lift the washer top, then depress the second catch. the top will hinge to the back of the washing machine. I think that the maytag neptune Fav series has two of the lid lock. a left and right and two magnets. but you will see them when you get it open .. be sure to unplug the washer before you do any work on it.. good luck and let me know how you do.. krazytech

Gerald Griffin

• 248 Answers
• Posted on Oct 21, 2007

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Door Boot Change

  Remove 2 screws holding door hinge to cabinet and remove door.  Then remove 2 screws opposite these. Grab front panel with thumbs at area of screws you removed and pull outward with thumbs. Panel will pivot forward.  Remove panel from lower clips.  At top of exposed area remove 2 5/16 screws.  Remove brackets under them. 
  Open dispenser and remove 4 screws.  Careful not to drop in dispenser.  Remove dispenser frame assembly.
  You can now raise top of washer to a 90 degree position.
   Now back to front exposed area.  Grab boot where it contacts front and peel out of groove.  Also remove two screws holding light assembly and remove cover.  Remove all 5/16 screws holding front assembly and the ones on top area where it is on a bevel.  Remove front assembly by folding up and onto top. 
  Now we are at the boot.  Remove spring and wire assembly holding boot to drum.  Make note on boot position and spring position.  Remove boot.  Install new boot onto drum.  wrap wire around drum with ends at top.  Now the fun!  Hook spring to on end of wire and using vise-grips,  pull to other end to hook into wire.  It can be done,  honest.
  Now just reverse to reassemble.  should be instructions with boot.   Good luck!

SOURCE: maytag neptune tl won't spin codes dc and uc

The clutch needle bearings may need to be lubed, this was my fix;

I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove the clutch pulley. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 4 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found a link on this site, good luck!

SOURCE: maytag neptune fav6800aww wont spin on rinse cycle

With this post I’m attempting to enhance the troubleshooting process regarding dc/UC errors in Spin Cycle associated with the FAV6800A machine. The troubleshooting steps are more to help DIY owners but it could be good info. for other owners to pass along to their appliance repair service if you go forward with a repair. I’m a DIY’er who refused to junk my machine as long as parts cost did not trigger a replacement decision and I have some basic mechanical skills. What I have learned about these fail codes, dc/UC in Spin Cycle is…. this is a chronic failure condition associated with the FAV6800A series machine (no brainer per numerous posts in this forum) and I feel that most of the time these codes are associated with a clutch malfunction.
The troubleshooting guide packed in the console of your machine makes reference to this issue in the Will Not Spin section of the guide and states to replace the clutch. I re-lubed my clutch with WD-40 and I have been working with 30+ loads of varying size with no Spin Cycle errors since early December 08. I and two other DIY forum members found this issue to be a maintenance issue with the clutch, no out of pocket cost for me and I’m sure under $5 for the other two forum members, I had a can of WD-40 in the house. See the links I have attached within this post. There is a description of the clutch removal I did in those posts. I hope this works for others; I’m sure many of these machines head to the curb for bulk trash pickup. Maybe you can extend the service life of your $1K machine if this proves to be a clutch re-lube fix for this issue. Shame on Maytag for not placing a quality sealed bearing in the clutch…. my opinion.
1. Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. Raise the top of the machine to observe the wash basket and tumbler action described in step 2...

2. With the top raised start a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket, observe the wash basket it will begin to rotate CCW. Watch the tumblers, they should not rotate in spin cycle (maybe ½ turn at the start of spin cycle and that’s all). If the tumblers rotate while the wash basket is rotating you have a clutch malfunction and the Spin Cycle will fail with dc/UC errors. If this is not the situation move on to step 3. I need to post step 3 and the rest of this post in a comment.

SOURCE: Code nd FAV6800AWW, Serial number 10

Hello HopelessR,
Don’t buy a clutch I don’t feel it’s a clutch issue at this point. I hope you can hang in there for some basic troubleshooting. I’m an owner like you not a repair person but I have worked some issues. I feel with the info supplied that you have a true “nd” alarm. The “nd” alarm is triggered when the washer fails to drain completely as monitored by the pressure switch input to the control board and the factory program time limit required for draining the washer. I have never experienced an “nd” alarm until this evening. This was a user induced “nd” failure by pumping wash water back into the tub during the drain cycle of Quick Wash cycle. I started a Quick Wash cycle with no clothes in the washer and with the remaining three settings set to min settings. At the 22 min mark the washer started the drain pump and began a slow spin CCW of the wash basket. It took several minutes of pumping wash water back into the wash tub to trigger “nd” alarm. The washer indicated time stayed at the 21 min mark until the “nd” alarm triggered. 1st test; could you start a Quick Wash cycle with what you would consider a full wash load with the settings I mentioned and let’s see what the results are. I don’t feel you have a clutch issue with no dc/UC error codes to the console. I believe at this point that you have a drain restriction problem. I can’t explain why the washer completes the cycle with the wash basket empty at this point. The 2nd test, do you have a deep sink you can pump the wash water into and observe the stream output? The stream my FAV6800AWW will produce is about a 3” vertical column of water out of the drain pipe held over the deep sink with the drain pump running and no clothes in the wash basket. If you have a deep sink and a helper that can turn on the drain pump in service mode as outlined below we can compare your drain pump output to mine.
You can turn on the drain pump in Service Mode with the process below.
1. Enter Service Mode by pressing both the Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys simultaneously until the washer beeps.

2. Next you need to go into the Board Output Test by pressing the Delicates key; your display should now read “ot”.

3. Now press the Presoak key this will start the drain pump and it should begin to empty the tub.

You can press the Off button to stop the drain pump.
If the output stream is low we can troubleshoot the restriction starting at the Sump Cap Item 9 and work back toward the drain pump.
I’ll hang in there with you if you want to continue to troubleshoot the issue. Maybe we can get some suggestions from other forum members. Rich
The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.