L1 L2 Black or White

Not sure what wires you are talking about. Normally on a 115volt motor you will have L1 and L2 and a green ground screw. Black or red goes to L1 and L2 (either one). White goes to either L1 or L2 (either one) and the green ground to the green ground screw. These would be the incoming voltage wires.

Hi, this is John the Hayward tech. You say the wire colors are Red, Black and White. Does not seem that the wires colors were correct from the start. Not knowing your voltage let me clarify some things. Normally if you have 115volts coming into the pump you wire colors should be Red or Black to L1 White to L2 and a green ground to the green ground screw. If you have 230volts coming into the pump the two hot leads are normally red and black with a green ground. The red and black wires go to L1 and L2 does not matter red or black. The green goes to the green ground screw.

most likely 240volts as most 120 volt dryers are already wired,depending on if its a 3 or 4 wire system depending on local electrical codes,but if its a 3 wire cord,take the RED to terminal L1 and Black to L2 terminal on the dryer terminal board HINT:(the RED and Black can go on either L1 or L2 they are interchangable) ,then the White wire to the N neutral terminal on the dryer terminal board usuall between the L1 and L2 terminal,if theres a Green Wire on the cord this is safety ground and can be attached to any metallic part on the dryer,if its a gray flat cord the 2 outside wires are L1 and L2 the center is Neutral,
so its:
RED=L1 or L2
BLACK=L1 or L2
WHITE=N or Neutral
GREEN=Safety Ground the metal dryer frame

One line lead wire to the L1 terminal, the other line lead wire to the L2 terminal and the green ground wire to the green grounded screw above the motor terminal board. It does not matter which wire, white or black, is on which terminal, L1 or L2, so long as one wire is on each terminal.

John

depending on your local electrical code:and I see that the unit is 240 Volts A.C., then RED=Power/Black=POWER(L1 & L2)/WHITE="N"Neutral/and GREEN=SAFETY GROUND,on the new unit, then use from the wall power BLACK = L1 and White= L2. then on the unit RED=L1 and BLACK=L2(either way you hook these 2 up there isn't a polarity issue on these 2 wires) on the units hook-up/then use the BARE supply wire as neutral and tie BOTH WHITE and GREEN from the unit together to this BARE wire

Black is the AC power into the switch, and the others are the switched power leads out. Take a close look at the switch housing and you might see small markings reading L1 and L2 by the red and blue leads.

To wire the switch, use a pressure connector (wire nut) to connect the black lead to the incoming AC power. On a polarized line cord, where the plug has one prong wider than the other, the hot side is the narrow prong. The neutral side, which connects to the white wires from the lamp sockets, is the wide prong, and the cord usually has a ridge molded in.

The red and blue wires go to the sockets. (This kind of switch is usually used in three-socket lamps, so I assume that's what you have.) The red lead should connect to the black wire from one socket, and the blue lead to the black wires from the other two. The usual sequence is power off, L1 (red) on, L2 (blue) on, L1 and L2 on. So as you turn the switch (or press the button in a push switch) you get one light, then two, then all 3 on.

Make sure all your connections are good and tight with UL approved connectors and there are no exposed bare wires, and you should be good to go.

N is White
L1 Black
L2 Red
Ground is Green
Eric

Wiring would be for low voltage 1-3, 4-2. L1 feeds 1-3 and L2 feeds
4-2. For high voltage L1 feeds 1 and L2 feeds 4 with the 2-3 terminals linked by wire or bus bar.