I have a HJA0530 built in gas oven. When I put the oven or grill on it switches on for about 10 minutes then the clock & whole thing goes off. Stays off for about 15 minutes then comes on again

New World Built in Gas Oven Users Manual Installation Handbook Page 10
Your welcome

There is a safety device built into gas outlets to prevent the gas from running if it fails to ignite. It works by heat. If a valve is not heated enough then the main valve will not remain open. That's why many gas appliances ask you to leave a second valve open for as much as 30 seconds after igniting. These valves are highly reliable. It sounds like your appliance may not be warm enough. Try to run it on high for 5-10 seconds before you turn it down. To access the valves; pull all the knobs straight off first then try to remove the facing by the screws. A make & model would be helpful since there are many different configurations.

you are, that sounds like your setting the timer for cooking not the clock.....switch the hole thing off at the wall then put it back on, the clock should flash, then set it, check the manual for button config.
infact i just read it, & its on page 10 2nd paragraph on right hand side...........
You can only change the clock when no other clock function is
active.
ie switch it off & back on at the wall.
1.Press the < > clock function button repeatedly until
the< > O(pic of a clock) and symbols light up.
2. Set the clock using the rotary selector.
The setting is applied automatically

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

F7 error code is displayed when the clock assembly/electronic range control (ERC) goes bad and needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

It could be the thermal cutouts operating. First things first, is the cooling fan running and does it turn off about 10 mins after the ovens/grill are turned off? If it isn't running then the unit is overheating and the thermal cutouts will operate. If it is running normally, then the cutout could be switching in early due to them becoming old and ineffective. There are two cutouts in the oven. One controls the main oven and the other controls the top oven. However, the grill operates without the clock being set, i.e. it is independent of the clock. So, if both the top oven and grill stop working together, according to the wiring diagrams in the handbook, the only thing it could be is the thermal cutout for the top unit.
F.Y.I. The top oven switch controls both the grill and the oven elements. In other words, in its OFF position, the Grill works and the Oven doesn't and in its ON setting the Oven works and the Grill doesn't. However, I can't see this failing as you specify, but worth checking if you take the oven to bits. The Grill will only work if the oven door is down.
If you need to replace the cooling fan, you will have to take the whole unit out of the kitchen cupboard to gain access to the top and rear oven panels, which have to be removed to gain access to the cooling fan and wiring. If you do replace it, ensure all the vents for air circulation are free from dirt and grease before you put it all back.
Try espares for STOVES spares. If the item is not listed you can ask them for a quote.
Be aware that the cooling fan is controlled by a timer circuit board and an in-line resistor on the fan terminal block. Either or both of these two and or the fan could have failed if the fan is not running! Any competent electrician should be able to work out what has failed.
All the diagrams are in the Handbook. If you need a copy, supply an email address and I will send you a pdf copy.
If you do ask for a quote, I suggest you ask for prices for all the parts mentioned above, so once you have checked what has failed, you will have enough info on pricing and availability as to whether to proceed or not.

It could be the thermal cutouts operating. First things first, is the cooling fan running and does it turn off about 10 mins after the ovens/grill are turned off? If it isn't running then the unit is overheating and the thermal cutouts will operate. If it is running normally, then the cutout could be switching in early due to them becoming old and ineffective. There are two cutouts in the oven. One controls the main oven and the other controls the top oven. However, the grill operates without the clock being set, i.e. it is independent of the clock. So, if both the top oven and grill stop working together, according to the wiring diagrams in the handbook, the only thing it could be is the thermal cutout for the top unit.
F.Y.I. The top oven switch controls both the grill and the oven elements. In other words, in its OFF position, the Grill works and the Oven doesn't and in its ON setting the Oven works and the Grill doesn't. However, I can't see this failing as you specify, but worth checking if you take the oven to bits. The Grill will only work if the oven door is down.
If you need to replace the cooling fan, you will have to take the whole unit out of the kitchen cupboard to gain access to the top and rear oven panels, which have to be removed to gain access to the cooling fan and wiring. If you do replace it, ensure all the vents for air circulation are free from dirt and grease before you put it all back.
Try espares for STOVES spares. If the item is not listed you can ask them for a quote.
Be aware that the cooling fan is controlled by a timer circuit board and an in-line resistor on the fan terminal block. Either or both of these two and or the fan could have failed if the fan is not running! Any competent electrician should be able to work out what has failed.
All the diagrams are in the Handbook. If you need a copy, supply an email address and I will send you a pdf copy.
If you do ask for a quote, I suggest you ask for prices for all the parts mentioned above, so once you have checked what has failed, you will have enough info on pricing and availability as to whether to proceed or not.

I can only speak for the 720. If you want a circuit/wiring diagram for this one, then I need an email address. I will then register this on my BT Digital Vault and you can the download the whole manual.
Looking at the diagrams, the neon for the main oven has white and black wires.
The white wire from the main oven neon goes onto the same connector on the thermostat block as the white wire to the oven element. The black wire from the neon goes to a common terminal on the top oven neon, which then goes onto P6 of the top oven switch (still black wire).
If you need any more info, then let me know.

Sugar,
Sometimes it takes a minute or longer for the thermocouple to get hot enough to send the correct voltage to the main part of the gas valve to get it open & the burners to light. If after a few attempts of turning the pilot knob to off, waiting a couple of minutes and then going thru the lighting process, your problem is the thermocouple. Most repair companies will NOT install YOUR parts because of the liability & warranty issue. The best bet is to call a repair co & explain what the problem is & tell them to bring a thermocouple with them. Sears or calling your local BBB is your best course.

Hi, The Function key is shorted or stuck.

Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC).