Sounds like a breaker or the plug is at fault. check for proper voltage at the plug if 220 the 2 flat bars should be 220 and one at a time to the other opening(s) should be 115 each.
if gas it will be 115 from the smaller opening to either of the other 2 .
check breaker turn off and on puish hard, even if it looks good turn off and back on to reset, then recheck the power.
SOURCE: kenmore dryer series 70 won't turn on
most of the time it is the door switch that goes bad,also you can check the main fuse inside the dryer on the blower box,and always make sure your dryer vent and wall vent are clear to vent,let me know what you find-mike
SOURCE: Whirlpool duet electric dryer, not getting any power
Hi,
I had the same problem with my gas dryer and after some research found out that the control board is usually the problem. I'm guessing this is the same problem for the gas and electric problem.
I also found out that Whirlpool has a new part # out to replace the problematic board.
I found these new updated boards for sale on ebay. I bought one for about $100 and after a few loads it's still working.
The procedure is simple, after unplugging the dryer, it just takes 7 screws to remove and about 6 things to unplug on the board. I recommend labeling the connectors or take a photo before you unplug things for reference.
It took me about 30 minutes to do this fix.
SOURCE: Dryer won't start
it is one of 2 things,the door switch is bad or the heater box fuse is bad,you can remove the back panel and you will see the little fuse on the top of the heater box,if you have a meter you can check the fuse and the door switch on the ohms setting,ler me know-mike
SOURCE: whirlpool dryer power but won't run
A thermostat will not keep a dryer from running, but a broken belt will.
If the model number you have this listed under is correct, you can access the dryer interior by lifting the lint screen door on top of the dryer and removing the two screws. With the screws removed, the dryer top will lift up. The belt should easily be seen wrapped around the dryer drum. If you pull on it, the belt should not have any play in it. If the belt is broken, it needs to be replaced. If the belt is loose, it probably has come off the belt tension idler pulley and needs to be reinstalled.
Another common problem is a blown Thermal Fuse. All the heating circuits this model dryer are easily accessible from the back of the dryer. All you have to do is unplug the dyer and remove the back panel. Look for the Thermal Fuse. This will be a small plastic looking component with two wires attached to it. Its mounted on the blower fan housing on the left hand side of the dryer (as facing from the rear). Unplug the wires from the Thermal Fuse and take a resistance reading across the terminals. If good, it will read 0 ohms. If bad, you must replace it.
This component will blow in an overheat/over-current condition and must be replaced. Usually when this component fails, it fails for a reason. Check your blower fan housing for any clogs or obstructions that may be causing the dryer to run hot.
For clarification, refer to appliancepartspros.com for exploded view daigrams of your dryer. Just type in your model number and look under Section 3. The Thermal Fuse is listed as item 7.
Something other things to consider:
1. Does the dryer have multiple breakers? An electric dryer runs on 220VAC. Some home use two 110VAC breakers instead of one 220 breaker. Double check your power distribution and make sure you have the breaker(s) set properly.
2. Have you checked the voltage at the wall receptacle? Unplug the dryer and take a voltage reading across the two hot (left and right slots) terminals. If good, you should read 220-240VAC.
3. Have you verified the power cord is good? You can check the power cord by leaving the dryer unplugged and remove the back panel where the power cord is installed on the back of the dryer. This is called the terminal block. You can either perform continuity checks between the prongs on the cord to the terminals at the terminal block, or you can plug the cord back in and take a voltage reading across the RED and BLACK wires at the terminal block.
If good, you should read the same 220-240VAC that you read at the wall receptacle.
If continuity is good you will read 0 ohms resistance from the end of the power cord to the terminal block.
4. Have you verified the door switch? When you open the door is the drum light on? With the dryer plugged in, you should be able to open the dryer door and see the light on insode the drum. Toggling the door switch with your finger, this light should go out if the switch is making contact. If the switch is defective, the dryer will not run.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
NOTE: The start switch popping back out when you open the door, I would assume to be normal. The dryer is supposed to shut off when the door opens.
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