TV and Tuner stays on standby but doesn't turn on
REd LCD stays on = standby mode
The Green LCD never comes on
Assuming you have tried changing batteries in your remote and any front panel power switch your set has, the main power supply is probably at
fault and without some technical background and a couple of test instruments,
you will not be able to do the repair yourself.
What you can do though is; unplug the set, let it
stand overnight or at least several hours, remove the back panel and look for a
separate board with mostly larger components on it; it will have a ferrite core
transformer on it and several larger capacitors which are cylindrical and
mounted vertically to the board.
Before touching anything inside,
especially on that board, allow several hours to be safe since the larger
capacitors can hold a painful voltage charge for some hours.
If you see signs of overheating
such as discoloration of the board material, it may not be repairable but if
you can find a part number on the board, you might be able to buy the power
supply and install it yourself.
If there are no signs of heat
damage to the board, there may be companies offering to repair it as a
subassembly instead of repairing the whole set which could be much more
expensive.
If you choose to replace or have it done, the power supply still may not be at fault since most
are capable of switching on and off if a downstream problem is causing an
overload.
how much would it cost to fix
There is a chance that a replacement board from 'shopjimmy' is a 'pull' from a salvage set and may produce the same results. Unfortunately, if the mfr. hasn't upgraded component quality, the same failure will occur again. It's likely that the problem is caused by a decayed (internally) electrolytic capacitor and unless it failed catastrophically, there may be no external sings of it but can only be found using an RCL meter/bridge that can measure not only the part's value but also internal losses. Such a meter costs ~$200 and may not be in every technician's possession. A standard electrolytic capacitor subjected to certain conditions will fail over time, more costly caps are designed for 'switched mode power supply' service and be more resistant to such failures. When I find one (or more) that have failed because of this, it is replaced with the better part and paralleled with a multi-layered ceramic cap with a value of .1-.47uFd with appropriate voltage rating. This keeps the high frequencies and fast rise times from damaging the electrolytic cap and can protect it from failure.
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Sounds like a bad mainbord or power supply parts @ www.shopjimmy.com
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